Interior Paint

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nodemon

nodemon

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So, I posed a question on an "autobody & paint" forum on FaceBook a while back and I got HAMMERED by most of the members because I'm rattlecan painting all my metal interior parts.
I don't have access to a spray gun set-up, so spray bombing it is. The issue I ran into was after I got my dash frame completed, and it turned out superb, I went to clean off a couple months of garage dust and I used Simple Green... Mistake..!
I learned that the basic matte black paint doesn't hold up well and it changed the finish in areas...blotchy spots.. I then tried the Eastwood DuraSpray 2k matte black and it really didn't come out good. The spray volume was inconsistent and would intermittently "spit"... And that happened with 2 different cans...and yes, I shook the can plenty prior to using..
My question to those that have done their interior metal with spray cans, what paint did you use, and how has it held up. My first attempt that turned out great was done with SEM self etch primer, high build primer and SEM matte black. That was the frame... I was going to do the metal door tops and metal sail panels a satin or semi gloss...or maybe matte with a clear.
Let's hear your good advice ..!!

John
 
Well if gotta use a rattle can, visit your friendly upscale paint store and have them mix the paint and make you a rattle can ready to use.
 
Dicer said:
Well if gotta use a rattle can, visit your friendly upscale paint store and have them mix the paint and make you a rattle can ready to use.
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I second this... I had NAPA mix up some of my color into a rattle can for the dash and interior metal bits
 
In general, DO NO USE a gloss on the top of dash. Too much glare. Factory in most Mopars for dash was a suede finish, sorta a mat finish. Gloss on door trim. Satin on steering colume, etc.
Example: If say a black interior, the factory used maybe 4-5-6 different shades of black on upholstry and metal and other trim. Goofiest thing to see is when someone uses the me color on all the interior, especially if glossy.
SEM has good product.
 
Mixing rattle cans at the paint store cannot have hardener in it or the paint won’t spray after a short time.

so this paint isn’t any better that any other rattler can.
 
413 said:
Mixing rattle cans at the paint store cannot have hardener in it or the paint won’t spray after a short time.

so this paint isn’t any better that any other rattler can.
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I have had the local PPG store mix a factory color by their receipe for a couple of small repair spots and it came out 99% perfect. Just a little shinier. It was on lower qtr. Car was a 77 Volare wagon with original paint in a gold color..
But yes, I dounbt any hardner.
 
I'd have to see how it would look on a test panel but I'd probably try a matte clear and then clean it with various cleaning products to see if it holds up better.
 
I've used SEM trim black on the interior of a few A-bodies. It always turns out great. Don't let people on facebook make you think every part of your car has to be perfect or "by the book." Do you want to drive it, or spend the rest of your life perfecting every last part of the car?
 
mopowers said:
I've used SEM trim black on the interior of a few A-bodies. It always turns out great. Don't let people on facebook make you think every part of your car has to be perfect or "by the book." Do you want to drive it, or spend the rest of your life perfecting every last part of the car?
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I didn't care what they were saying....they're ALL experts, and each better than the rest...most just show their *** to make themselves feel better...so I totally get what you're saying.. I was really looking for advice on what someone has done in the past. Maybe an idea that someone had success with.. Like I said, it looked great when I finished it with the matte SEM... I just don't want to worry about it not being durable enough, or resistant enough to an accidental spill, if there was something else I could try. I'll send it like it is if I have to..!
 
ESP47 said:
I'd have to see how it would look on a test panel but I'd probably try a matte clear and then clean it with various cleaning products to see if it holds up better.
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I did a test with 2 different clears... A low luster and then a matte clear... Still too much glare for me...
 
nodemon said:
I didn't care what they were saying....they're ALL experts, and each better than the rest...most just show their *** to make themselves feel better...so I totally get what you're saying.. I was really looking for advice on what someone has done in the past. Maybe an idea that someone had success with.. Like I said, it looked great when I finished it with the matte SEM... I just don't want to worry about it not being durable enough, or resistant enough to an accidental spill, if there was something else I could try. I'll send it like it is if I have to..!
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What SEM paint did you use? They make quite a few. Trim black, trim black ultra, color coat, hotrod black, etc.
 
mopowers said:
What SEM paint did you use? They make quite a few. Trim black, trim black ultra, color coat, hotrod black, etc.
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1108221822_HDR.jpg
 
nodemon said:
I did a test with 2 different clears... A low luster and then a matte clear... Still too much glare for me...
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Well shoot. The only rattle can spray paint I've ever used that was decently scratch resistant was Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy but I believe that is going to be too glossy on it's own to work for the dash.
 
j_anderson said:
Here are some photos from the link I shared above:

View attachment 1716008418

View attachment 1716008421


View attachment 1716008422


@Swinger340Canuc can you speak to the scratch resistance of this JD paint and also how well it cleans?​

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I can provide a bit of the reasoning on why I decided to use this paint on my dash understanding that as a professional painter by trade I have all the options available to me. I could have went with a two component, hardener activated, paint that would only have a slightly better mar resistance being a Matt finish and harder to match the finish that the factory used. The other issue with two component paints in matt finish is if you do get a scratch or nick that you need to fix is they are very difficult to spot in and you have to protect your entire interior to do it. A single stage spray bomb like the one I used blends in much easier with little overspray that you could easily control just by cranking on your shop vac to suck up the little overspray it creates. After 4 years I’ve no issues, cleans fine looks factory. A friend of mine is the one that suggest this John Deere paint he used on his dash and that it was a near perfect match and it was an inexpensive simple solution. Sometimes simple is best.
 
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