Is there an electric choke conversion for a six pack setup???

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duster360

duster360

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Has anyone installed an electric choke on the center carb of a six pack setup? I have thought about doing away with the choke that requires the exhaust heat to make it open so I can block off the heat riser ports in the heads to keep heat out of the intake manifold. I have looked at the later style electric choke like the one that came stock on a 79 Ramcharger with 360 2 barrel I had once. Unfortunately I don't have one of those handy to see if it would work.
 
Not that I've ever seen. I don't believe it can be done. It's not a huge deal to run the heated crossover. I did drive a 6bbl for a few years daily including snow and freezing.
 
Are the mounting bosses there to adapt a typical Holly electric choke conversion unit? Are you sure this would be better? The Holley conversions tend to provide quick if not blubbering rich cold starts. Their chokes tend to be plenty effective.
 
That timer might work when you start a cold motor, however it will also work when you start a hot motor.

Not a very good solution in my opinion.
 
We installed an electric choke on the slant 6 that came in Bruce's wagon. It had a 2300 series 2 bbl on it.

So there is an electric choke that will fit the 2300 series 2 bbl....


However, I don't know if there is room for it on a six pack set up. Will have to look at them and ponder a while....
 
12volt heaters..... :)

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I'm currently testing with 12v 40w ceramic cartridge heater. They just lay in the choke well. I tested it with a 13.4 volt supply at 3.5 amps. The choke fully opened in 3:56 min
I'm going to test next with a 30watt cartridge. Wiring would be to keyswitch "on" and battery neg. This is still in the testing phase. I"m trying to get the heat down to @ 195degrees. I am not willing to cut my intake! heaters are $9.00.
 
this is what they look like, this one is 40w, I believe its a bit too hot. Going to try a 30w next.

Screenshot (108).png
 
Wow! That’s using your noodle. Can you show this process?
 
duster360 said:
Has anyone installed an electric choke on the center carb of a six pack setup? I have thought about doing away with the choke that requires the exhaust heat to make it open so I can block off the heat riser ports in the heads to keep heat out of the intake manifold. I have looked at the later style electric choke like the one that came stock on a 79 Ramcharger with 360 2 barrel I had once. Unfortunately I don't have one of those handy to see if it would work.
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Years ago, I found an electric choke kit for a 2300 Holley that I retrofitted on my Slant 6. I worked flawlessly once installed and adjusted per the instructions. I used a Google search to find it.
 
jbc426 said:
Years ago, I found an electric choke kit for a 2300 Holley that I retrofitted on my Slant 6. I worked flawlessly once installed and adjusted per the instructions. I used a Google search to find it.
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Does this look like it? It’s on Ebay, it says conversion for 2300.

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So I purchased the above kit.....doesn't fit this style 2300 Holley. Returned it the same day. :p
 
monkstur said:
How did your testing turn out? Are you still using it, 30w, 40w? Did you run it though a relay or just straight 12v all the time?
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Sorry I haven't been working on it. I'm working on a provisional patent for an electrical device right now and it occupied most of my time. I'll be back at it this spring.
 
The electric ones i saw have a thermostatic switch,turning off when not required. Extends the life of the heater at the very least.
 
monkstur said:
How did your testing turn out? Are you still using it, 30w, 40w? Did you run it though a relay or just straight 12v all the time?
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keep us posted, I would imagine I'm not the only one that would be interested in this. Thanks
 
monkstur said:
keep us posted, I would imagine I'm not the only one that would be interested in this. Thanks
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WIll do, it most definitely be the lower 30watt heater. I would still need to lower the voltage by added a resistor in series. That will take a bit of bench testing. It just has to be “hot enough” .
 
MICHAEL J KLOCK said:
WIll do, it most definitely be the lower 30watt heater. I would still need to lower the voltage by added a resistor in series. That will take a bit of bench testing. It just has to be “hot enough” .
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10.4 just keep us in the loop!
 
So I think I've located a superb DC power reducer to run the heater for the choke element. The first test is a success for what is needs to do. This small board is approx 1"x2" and is fully adjustable. I ran 13.5 volts into the board and was able to reduce it down to 2.2 volts to run a small LED bulb. This means that once my new heater element arrives I can adjust the power down to obtain the proper heat range. More to follow.

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This evenings bench test was successful. Using a 30watt 3d printer heater, Test supply voltage was 14.00 volts, modulated down to 8.00 volts through the DC module. The heater runs at .8 amps at 237 degrees. Fully open choke in @ 6min. Now it needs to be made into some sort of package.

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MICHAEL J KLOCK said:
This evenings bench test was successful. Using a 30watt 3d printer heater, Test supply voltage was 14.00 volts, modulated down to 8.00 volts through the DC module. The heater runs at .8 amps at 237 degrees. Fully open choke in @ 6min. Now it needs to be made into some sort of package.

View attachment 1715149699
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Stay after it man, I would be interested in one for sure
 
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