Just how ridiculous would this be?

-

chrysler kid

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 9, 2023
Messages
50
Reaction score
28
Location
Sacramento CA
Hello everybody,
I am finishing the very last stages of the 2001 360 thats going in my 78 cordoba. I decided to go with the hughes adapter kit for the mechanical fuel pump, carburetor and v belts. I pulled the motor that was in the car last weekend to get the last few brackets for the drive belt setup and throttle linkage, and found that the magnum heads have quite a bit more material and sit further forward. I was able to line up the power steering but the alternator is giving me trouble. First off the back of the alt case hits the heads preventing it from sitting straight and the three point adjustment bracket isn't able to sit as far back as it needs to. I could grind the heads and block where they mount and bent the adjustment bracket, but it would be an excessive amount. This setup however lines up perfectly. My only concern is that the short distance between the crank pulley would overwork the alternator bearing. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I also have an idler pulley with bearing I could make a bracket for to lengthen the belt.

20230621_195326.jpg
 
My concern is most alternator pulleys have 1/3 wrap.

Your setup looks like it will have maybe 1/8 wrap
 
Less wrap causing the belt to slip is what youre saying? Even at such a short distance?
Belt length or distance from the crank pulley makes zero difference to the alternator or its function.
The amount of belt contact on the pulley does though.
 
Less wrap causing the belt to slip is what youre saying? Even at such a short distance
That's what I'm saying.

Distance should not make any difference.

The HP needed to spin the alternator Is applied over a smaller surface area that HO is the same weather the alt is closer or farther away.
 
Well shoot I wasnt even thinking about that aspect. Looks like im going to have to make it work on the other side of the motor.
 
If you can fit in a idler pulley you can get the wrap you need.

BTW it might work as is but might not.
 
The only real place i could think to put the idler pulley while still clearing the body/frame would be on the alt mounting bolt which would give me even worse wrap. Figured i would try some chevy engineering before I broke down and started fabricating things to make it work on the other side. Sometimes overthinking it just makes things more complicated.
 
Hello everybody,
I am finishing the very last stages of the 2001 360 thats going in my 78 cordoba. I decided to go with the hughes adapter kit for the mechanical fuel pump, carburetor and v belts. I pulled the motor that was in the car last weekend to get the last few brackets for the drive belt setup and throttle linkage, and found that the magnum heads have quite a bit more material and sit further forward. I was able to line up the power steering but the alternator is giving me trouble. First off the back of the alt case hits the heads preventing it from sitting straight and the three point adjustment bracket isn't able to sit as far back as it needs to. I could grind the heads and block where they mount and bent the adjustment bracket, but it would be an excessive amount. This setup however lines up perfectly. My only concern is that the short distance between the crank pulley would overwork the alternator bearing. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I also have an idler pulley with bearing I could make a bracket for to lengthen the belt.

View attachment 1716105252
Put a belt on it.
 
Hey, @chrysler kid, I have a few questions for you!
1. I have always liked Cordobas. Do you have any pictures?
2. Does your Cordoba have "Rich Corinthian Leather"?
3. What HP level are you building it to?
I lived in Sacramento twice while in the Air Force. Once for a year (June 73-May 74) while I was a Nav student at Mather AFB (Now closed). We lived in an apartment complex on Rockingham Drive just outside the Main Gate. And I was there from 77-81 as a teacher at the Nav School at Mather. I taught Grid and Overwater Navigation. That time, we bought a house and lived at 3731 Station Street. If I remember right, that was south of the base. We LOVED Sacramento. 90 minutes to San Francisco and 90 minutes to Tahoe. I'm sure things have changed, but we sure liked it.
If you have ever read any of Dale Brown's books, he was one of my students.
 
Just cheap factory vinyl, and not building for hp just wanted a nice daily driver. Found a rolled dodge truck with 100k on the odometer and decided to dress it like an LA with stock magnum internals.

IMG-20200606-WA0003.jpg


IMG-20200606-WA0004.jpg


IMG-20200606-WA0005.jpg
 
The problem you have is the alternator itself. You need a different model.
The Magnum engines came with a NipponDenso built alternator. Different dimensions and mounts.
 
The problem you have is the alternator itself. You need a different model.
The Magnum engines came with a NipponDenso built alternator. Different dimensions and mounts.
I like this option better, which leads me to a new set of questions.
1. Can i use my old v belt style pulley on these?
2. Are these still externally regulated and if so can i just wire in my two fields to the wires from the connector?
 
My concern is the location of the slotted adjustment. Look closely and imagine moving it back and forth with the belt on. I don't believe either way will tighten the belt.
 
My concern is the location of the slotted adjustment. Look closely and imagine moving it back and forth with the belt on. I don't believe either way will tighten the belt.
Neither did I until I gave it a shot. Surprisingly works okay as the adjustment bracket swings out with the movement of the alt. However im still debating how realistic this setup is going to be compared to making it work on the other side.
 
All you have to do is modify the alternator mount bracket, lengthen the lower section that adjusts, allowing the alternator to "swing" farther, longer belt and done. Still looks and works factory
 
Curious, couldn’t you run two belts? There is a dual groove pulley on the alt, correct? One belt crank, w/p, alt. And the other crank, p/s, alt. Something like this? Pardon the elementary graphics. I suppose it’s totally possible (and likely) that I’m misunderstanding the whole issue also.
:lol:

IMG_8776.jpeg
 
The water pump pulley is too close to the crank for that setup. Only way it would work on this side is one belt (crank, wp, power steering) and another (crank to alt) its hard to see from this angle but the alt and power steering are on different grooves
 
I run a 100 amp alternator mounted the same way. Extreme RPMs over 6000 to 9000 I shut the alternator off. Otherwise it works perfect. No assumptions here I ran this for many many years using the power steering bracket for the mount.

I needed to put a metric nut on the bracket to use the correct diameter bolt for the GM alternator to keep it straight.

Over 8000 it would throw the belt if charging, But like I said I had it on a switch with a constant close starter relay . I seen it go to 9300 I opened the hood to look and see if it threw the belt and to my surprise it was still on

Steve 064.JPG


Steve 106.JPG


Steve 100 (3).JPG


Steve 105.JPG


Steve 101.JPG
 
I run a 100 amp alternator mounted the same way. Extreme RPMs over 6000 to 9000 I shut the alternator off. Otherwise it works perfect. No assumptions here I ran this for many many years using the power steering bracket for the mount.

I needed to put a metric nut on the bracket to use the correct diameter bolt for the GM alternator to keep it straight.

Over 8000 it would throw the belt if charging, But like I said I had it on a switch with a constant close starter relay . I seen it go to 9300 I opened the hood to look and see if it threw the belt and to my surprise it was still on

View attachment 1716105402

View attachment 1716105403

View attachment 1716105404

View attachment 1716105405

View attachment 1716105407
Now that is what im talking about!
 
Made a longer adjustment bracket from a piece of scrap metal. Still need to make a few adjustments like fliping the bolt around on the center top of the timing case and using a completely threaded bolt with a nut to hold timing case tension and the support rod and then cuting an alternator spacing sleeve to fit with the other side of the rod.

20230624_074656.jpg
 
-
Back
Top