K-Frame Question

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R4Sedan

R4Sedan

Larry
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I have a '67 Barracuda. It needs a new Idler arm and Pitman arm. I'm finding that the '67 is one year only. Does anybody know what make's it one year only is it the idler arm and center link or the K-frame? I could hardly believe Chrysler would have designed a K-frame 1 -yr only. Can anybody shed some light on this topic. Somebody has had to have delt with this already?????? Thanks.
 
67 did not have tabs above and below the idler on the k-frame the bolt passes through. Not sure about the pitman other than BB cars are different.
 
I idler arm mount has one mounting tab on 67. Later models have 2 tabs that idler arm goes in between. One year only!
 
Thanks for the response,is it possible to weld a tab and use a idler arm with the bolt through type?
 
No, you can't just add the other tab. The original 67 tab is roughly in the center of the later two tabs and had a tapered hole for the tapered stud of the idler.
 
R4Sedan said:
Thanks for the response,is it possible to weld a tab and use a idler arm with the bolt through type?
Click to expand...


Jim Lusk said:
No, you can't just add the other tab. The original 67 tab is roughly in the center of the later two tabs and had a tapered hole for the tapered stud of the idler.
Click to expand...

Jim, if someone was talented enough, couldn't they cut the old tab and weld two new ones in? I thought I'd read somewhere about people converting to the better idler system.

I just took the easy route and replaced the whole K member but I was also getting rid of a slant 6 K member and Schumaker mounts at the same time.
 
I was thinking of modding mine until I scored a junker with a spool mount K, LOL. If you have ANY 68--76 K, even a slant six, you could use that to "build" a jig to mod the 67 K. You definately want the idler accurately located, LOL
 
Certainly you could cut the single tab off and fab something up. There are flaws, however, in the later design. There are actually more ways for the later arm to become loose and many of the aftermarket pieces are poor quality.
 
The 67 single shear system, when it gets tired, likes to move around. A lot. The 68up double shear, with a Moog arm is good for many many years of regular driving.
For performance driving, I would be converting it. For tooling around just keep an eye on it, and just replace it as required.
Theyre not nearly as bad as some other contemporary designs.
 
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