LA Engine bolt sizes and count.

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Dartfreak75

Dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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Hey guys I have decided that I want to replace all the bolts with new ones on my engine but I'm not paying premium prices for a kit so I figured I'd just buy them loose at the hardware store. Plus I like helping out the old guy at the local hardware store. He is cool guy and I really enjoy talking with him. But anyway I need some help formulating a list here is what I have so far
Valve covers 10x 1/4-20 length?
Oil pan 18x 5/16-20 length?
Intake manifold 12x 3/8-16 length?
Headers ? I cant find the size on them
Water pump/timing cover 11x 3/8-16 they are a variety of lengths I remember that much.
Fuel pump 2×3/8-16 length?
Oil pump 3/8-16 quantity and length?
Alternator?
Water pump to fan clutch?
Distributor bolt down?
Crank pully ?
Am I missing any? Thanks guys
 
I believe there may be a comprehensive list in the factory service manual. Or maybe the parts manual? I'll try to find it.
 
match the grade with oem mostly
you do not want grade 8 bolts where you can't torque them to spec
like into aluminum
to spec and they disrort or strip
to grade 5 torque they are not stretched, loose tension, and come loose
 
Crank pulley bolt is a grade 8. The thick washer under that bolt head needs to be kept; it is thick to take the high torque needed.

You need to be very careful with the timing cover bolts. On the left side, there is one that goes into an open hole in the front of the block, and if too long will punch into the #1 cylinder bore and crack it. I personally would see if I could clean up and re-use those, if they are in decent shape.
 
In my opinion, you can buy inexpensive bolts & possibly get away with it. I like to make sure that I use the best quality fasteners I can afford. My reasoning is, it's expensive to build an engine because of a cheap bolt failure. That's just my thoughts, others may disagree.
 
I would clean the original bolts and re-use them.
Soak them for a few days in Mineral spirits to remove the grease, let them dry overnight on a paper towel.
Soak in evapo-rust for a day or so, rinse with water.
 
mopowers said:
I believe there may be a comprehensive list in the factory service manual. Or maybe the parts manual? I'll try to find it.
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Yea that's where I found the list I have now It just doesnt give me the length or quantity.
 
sireland67 said:
I would clean the original bolts and re-use them.
Soak them for a few days in Mineral spirits to remove the grease, let them dry overnight on a paper towel.
Soak in evapo-rust for a day or so, rinse with water.
Click to expand...
If I can find them lol last year when I had to move all my stuff things got misplaced and boxed up I have no idea what is in what box. I will go thru them and see what I can find
 
nm9stheham said:
Crank pulley bolt is a grade 8. The thick washer under that bolt head needs to be kept; it is thick to take the high torque needed.

You need to be very careful with the timing cover bolts. On the left side, there is one that goes into an open hole in the front of the block, and if too long will punch into the #1 cylinder bore and crack it. I personally would see if I could clean up and re-use those, if they are in decent shape.
Click to expand...
I know for a fact the intake bolts are trash dang near everyone broke when I removed them. The rest is gonna be a game of hid and seek to try and locate them lol
 
Ok so after work I stopped by my storage unit and dug thru some boxes I found my valve cover bolts along with the little triangle washers, 3 sets of water pump and timing cover bolts (lol) oil pump, oil pan, crank pully,head bolts, torque converter, and I think the flywheel bolts. I gotta double check to see what they look like the bag just says torque converter but it looks like more than 4 bolts so I'm assuming I put the flywheel bolts in the same bag. I found my intake but they are all rounded off and rusty so I'm replacing them. That just leaves me with header bolts and intake bolts to buy. I gotta find some carb studs too. Oh yea and I also found some extra head bolts I think they are out of my old slant six.
 
I am looking at sets of header bolts and they all include 12 bolts. Do yall take the studs on the ends out? The factory heads have two studs and 4 bolts on each head are you supposed to remove the studs and just use 6 bolts?
 
I always take the studs out because it makes most header installations in A-bodies more of a pain in the *** than they already are. Just make sure to use thread sealant on those outside bolts when you install the fasteners on the ends.
 
Good to know thanks guys. I ordered my intake bolts now I just have to find buy some header bolts.
 
mopowers said:
I always take the studs out because it makes most header installations in A-bodies more of a pain in the *** than they already are. Just make sure to use thread sealant on those outside bolts when you install the fasteners on the ends.
Click to expand...
Is there a specific type of sealant I need for the head ? Or will locktight work ?
 
Header bolts normally come with new sets of headers.
 
sireland67 said:
Header bolts normally come with new sets of headers.
Click to expand...
I bought my headers used. Iv had them for a really long time and never used them. I bought them like in 2003 from a member on another forum for an engine I was putting together for the dart and ended up putting that engine in my barracuda so I never used the headers. They have been in storage since 2003
 
dartfreak75 said:
Is there a specific type of sealant I need for the head ? Or will locktight work ?
Click to expand...

Regular Loctite is not a thread sealant. They do make one though, as does Permatex.

upload_2020-5-1_6-39-33.png


51YSDqfyOZL._AC_.jpg



This is what I use, just because I can get a good size tube for cheap at the Lowe's around the corner from me:
rectorseal-pipe-putty-sealants-23710-64_300.jpg


I've also just used high-temp RTV with no problems as well. Like anything, pick your poison.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Ok so after work I stopped by my storage unit and dug thru some boxes I found my valve cover bolts along with the little triangle washers, 3 sets of water pump and timing cover bolts (lol) oil pump, oil pan, crank pully,head bolts, torque converter, and I think the flywheel bolts. I gotta double check to see what they look like the bag just says torque converter but it looks like more than 4 bolts so I'm assuming I put the flywheel bolts in the same bag. I found my intake but they are all rounded off and rusty so I'm replacing them. That just leaves me with header bolts and intake bolts to buy. I gotta find some carb studs too. Oh yea and I also found some extra head bolts I think they are out of my old slant six.
Click to expand...
So sorry - just saw this thread - if you would measure the length of those bots you have that would be helpful too.
 
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