LA top end rebuild question

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72Mopah

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Dec 18, 2018
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Nashua NH
Good Day everyone.
I am in progress of rebuilding/ replacing the top end on my 340. I plan to replace from the cam up. My question is - has anyone experienced installing a Milodon gear drive and if so how did it come out? Was it a worthwhile upgrade? I was toying with the idea of replacing my double roller timing chain and gear set with one of these. I know it is quite a bit more $ than the typical chain/ gear. I was thinking about the longevity of a gear set vs a chain/ gear set. My current timing chain is a bit stretched and should be replaced anyway.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
 
I have not done it but am planning on using a Milodon gear drive on my next build. As I understand it, they are harder to set up but last forever with little or no change in setting.
 
From what I have heard (pun intended) gear drives are noisy.
 
Can I ask why are you thinking about doing this. A good quality double roller type of chain like a Cloyes does a great job and is way cheaper. What a waste of money for many.
 
Have been rebuilding motors using good quality double roller timing sets for years with no longitivtiy issues. I see no reason to use a gear drive on any hot street motor. My two cents.
 
I'm replacing my old Direct Connection gear set with an Edelbrock set I got from Summit. After comparing the two, if the old one lasted 29 years, this one will outlast me.

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Milidon gear drive is quiet and your timing will be way more stable.
Had that setup on two different engines, well worth it.
And yes, small block mopars are bad on chains. One bandaid is the chain tensioner. Ask 100 people, 100 answers on that.
At the end of the day the gear drive is more money, but will last virtually forever and be way more stable
 
I installed a Milodon in my small block 18 years ago and have no complaints. Its not noisy at all. Maybe if you had a stock motor with stock exhaust you might hear it. Timing is rock steady. I did mine with the engine on a stand, so drilling and tapping the required hole and set up was easy. I'm sure it could be done in the car if needed though. Did I really need it, no, did I want to try one, yes! Go for it if you got the extra bucks. Its your choice.
 
Do it. And dont tell anyone. If you don't say anything, no one will even know it's in there. I'd never, ever run a chain again. Ever. Even on my street junk I run a Milodon gear drive. Always. Worth every penny.
 
Hey it comes down to it’s your money. Would you like more go fast parts (money towards better heads) or a part that honestly isn’t needed. Some of the (street hoopies) would put them on to sound cool at the car shows and cruises but I would love to see proof that it makes your car faster, more consistent, or stronger. I used to have a photo folder of damages done when things go wrong with a gear drive but when my old computer crashed I lost them. Spend wisely
 
Hey it comes down to it’s your money. Would you like more go fast parts (money towards better heads) or a part that honestly isn’t needed. Some of the (street hoopies) would put them on to sound cool at the car shows and cruises but I would love to see proof that it makes your car faster, more consistent, or stronger. I used to have a photo folder of damages done when things go wrong with a gear drive but when my old computer crashed I lost them. Spend wisely


A quality gear drive doesn't make noise. Is cheap money really. Your cam timing will never move. You can run your P/V much closer (I've run as close as piston to head clearance many times on the intake side) and it will never change.
 
Someof the gear drives were made noisy intentionally because street punks back in the day thought it was cool. Pete Jackson units come to mind
Like Thrush stickers in 1/4 windows.
 
Most folks have said it's quiet. I installed one on the 429 Cobra Jet in my Cobra replica several years ago. Had several folks wonder if I had a supercharger because of the noise. Just my experience.
 
Gear drives use up more torque. There is noting better than a light weight true roller. A good quality true roller. Pricey but well worth the money. If your not worried about the torque loss. Have at it what ever floats your boat.

Here is what I can tell you all. A roller timing chain most of them from summit are junk . The way you can tell a true roller is the barrel of the roller in the chain must spin. If it doesn't it is just a double roller they are junk.

Back in the day Grumpy Jenkins would run a factory nylon over aluminum gear and chain. Any weight you can eliminate from the reciprocating mass of an engine will increase torque.

If I were to change to anything it would be a belt drive. $$$$

My chain in my motor was in there for over 8 years of some high torque loads and RPM's When we tore the engine down it was still tight. They make different length chains for initial builds if your Crank to cam center line is short. correction The chains are not shorter the sprockets are bigger. They come in .005" and .010" oversize.

Mine had to be special ordered shorter. Tensioners are for mild motors or for idiot built race motors. They only hold the same length under a pull or at idle . Accelerate and decelerate RPM's the tensioner jumps. Close valve to piston clearance and you are taking a chance.

Remember this, A "True roller" not "Double roller" 340's came with "Double rollers". The cheapest true roller is a "Cloyes true roller". They are a good chain and perfect for any Street/ mild or race build engine.

I stayed with a chain in the small block because the motor was built like this originally .The timing cover mods and other parts are just things we don't want o spend money on again . Our BB will be a belt drive with a crank triggered ignition. The distributor is just another thing you have to turn .

This is only my opinion and what I prefer. Everyone has there own preference. To me those heavy heat treated gears are not good for the cam or main bearings. Give it some good thought. As the are loaded they are pushing out on the cam shaft and crank shaft

Besides the 8" converter .The only thing the crank drives on our small block is the Timing chain Altenator and Distributor. He shut the Alternator off while staging.

"True Roller" Or a "Belt drive"

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That is a really nice car.


Thank you Sir. I wish I had the ambition to finish it but my get up and go got up and left. Two big races coming up this weekend and then 9 days at Norwalk Ohio for the Halloween Classic and I’m not sure I’m going. I have up till later this week to ask for a refund
 
I beat the piss out of my last 360 for over 10 years, Cloyes true roller never gave me any trouble, I would spend the $ elsewhere, just my .02, your results may vary.
 
Just for the heck of it I Googled Milidon gear drive to see how much it was. Lmao!!!! 480.00 for zero performance gain on a good timing chain and a 3.00 1/2 lock collar from Ace Hardware
 
Thank you Sir. I wish I had the ambition to finish it but my get up and go got up and left. Two big races coming up this weekend and then 9 days at Norwalk Ohio for the Halloween Classic and I’m not sure I’m going. I have up till later this week to ask for a refund
At 64 I get real tired also. This site and seeing other members rides keeps me going. Its the Dreams of what you can do that make your life worth living.
 
First off I dont have a gear drive so no skin in that game but I will say most common double roller chains are junk now imo.We used to run cloyes double rollers in just about everything but it seems the quality just isnt there now. The last cloyes that was bad only had a couple thousand miles on it was too lose and that was a chevy small block.My advice is open the wallet and buy the best billet true roller chain you can or get a gear drive.
 
Just for the heck of it I Googled Milidon gear drive to see how much it was. Lmao!!!! 480.00 for zero performance gain on a good timing chain and a 3.00 1/2 lock collar from Ace Hardware

I guess I'm stupid, but what's the lock collar you keep talkin about?
 
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