leaking brake valve

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Waco Demon

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Has any one had problems with new brake valves leaking . I have a 1972 Dodge Demon did a brake conversion all factory parts new I have installed two new brake valves and both leak I know this one is not leaking at the lines I think at the top where the line from the master cylinder goes brass hex fitting or the hex piece goes into the valve
Thanks for reading this post Waco Demon
 
A photo would help. I don't know what a "brake valve" is. Some periods would help us understand your question.
 
the brake valve is the distribution valve some combo valve or the proportioning valve . it is between the MC and the brakes thanks Waco Demon
 
Have you been buying, and using one of those China repop, proportioning valves that lots of internet sellers, vendors, are selling?
If so, those are notorious for being defective, and or leakers, right from the start.
Lots and lots of people have problems with them.
Do a search on the problem.
GOOGLE, or the web sites, like you are doing here.

I used to sell lots of excellent used valves, here on this forum, until i sold them all.

If you can find someone with a good used valve to sell to you, that would be the way to go, in my opinion.
But finding someone with a good valve, is getting harder and harder, to come across, now a days.
Good luck.
 
I got both of my valves from Inline tubes one from there catalog and other one from there ebay store Waco Demon
 
Waco Demon said:
I got both of my valves from Inline tubes one from there catalog and other one from there ebay store Waco Demon
Click to expand...


Yep, they are a vendor that lots of folks have problems with those valves that they sell, sorry to say.
 
You may just not have held the lines straight into the while tightening. A lot of guys will just get the threads started on the hex nut and then depend on the nut to somehow keep the line straight as it is pulled into the reverse flare on the valve/block. You need to loosen these up a couple of turns, and then hold the line with one hand so that it is straight into the inverted flare, while using the other hand to wrench down the nut. Once it is pretty firmly tight, then you can let go of the line, and apply the final torque. Sonce thse have been seated, this may not work so well now; and you may hae to torque the snot out of them.

My son and I used Inline Tube parts; I held all my lines straight while tightening and had nary a leak; my son did not know to do this and we had 2 leaks. It took a LOT more torque than normal to get them to stop leaking once they were put in 'non-straight'; I was waiting for them to strip out, but they finally stopped leaking and have been good since June.
 
I just went through this.

I was sure I tightened all the lines correctly. I had leaks everywhere!!!

I loosened all of leaking points and the re-tightned and all was well. Not sure if I was just not wanting to over tighten or what.

All my lines, distribution valve and rear hold off valve were from inline tubes. I can't fault thier products.
 
My first try with all my new lines I had the same results but the valve was leaking at the hex nut and out of the switch . I got a new valve and before I put it in I checked the hex nut and it was loose . I hooked up all the lines as Inline tubes told me had no line leaks but the hex nut adapter leaked all my lines are new from Inline Tubes I am going to have a talk with Inline tubes Monday Waco Demon
 
Waco,
A photo would sure help, pointing to the spot it is leaking. I envision the same adjustable proportioning valve I used in 2 cars. Those require 1/8 NPT to 3/16 inv flare adapter in each port. If leaking at the NPT thread, you need a better sealant (teflon tape or such). If leaking at the inverted flare, it is probably a bad flare on your tubing side, or you got it in cocked (as mentioned). Neither are the fault of the prop valve manufacturer.
 
BillGrissom said:
A photo would help. I don't know what a "brake valve" is. Some periods would help us understand your question.
Click to expand...

he knows,he is using sarcasism.grammer cop also.
i would try and find a used one,ive heard the repops are junk.like most repops are.
 
I suppose part quality could be a factor.
To get a seal at those flared surfaces isn't always easy. The outside diameter of the tubing is usually quite loose in the inside diameter of the tube nut. To hold a steel tubing straight as possible can help no doubt since it wont confirm as easily as softer tubings. Straight isn't so easy to locate and hold in some applications.
To reputedly loosen a quarter turn and retighten a tad further each time would coax/conform the flared surfaces to mate and seal. Common open end wrenches or cheap line wrenches might round the hex off the tubing nut first though.
 
Tubing can crack at the flare also.
Just something to keep in mind.
 
Is this the same valve? late model A-body disc/drum with built in rear hold of valve?

The nut on the top for the front brake line input from the master cylinder (Rear Port).

It just uses a copper washer for sealing to the valve body. Are you sure its tight or is the fluid actually coming from the line fitting connecting to it?

Did you get stainless lines??? If so I understand you have to put bit more beef on them to get them to seal.
 
Yes this the valve I have been talking about .I put both lines from the master cylinder before I slid down into position , I instead the lines jest as In line tubes told me my lines are not leaking it is leaking at the copper washer . I cleaned the block and the input line with alcohol .I pumper the brakes then got back under the car first checking line and fitting no fluid put my fingers on the block at area on the top of the block and found fluid .Thank you for posting the picture I tried but no luck .
Thank you for the help Waco Demon
 
You might try changing the washer.

It appears to be pretty much a standard brake hose washer.
 
^^ I would do that. Most of the new copper sealing washers sold these days with all sorts of brake parts are a lot harder than the ones that used to be sold, and the new ones can be ridiculously hard to seal. I have not cut one apart but I suspect they are a copper coated steel or just a copper colored alloy. Where to get the older style, softer copper sealing washers is a good questions.
 
nm9stheham said:
^^ I would do that. Most of the new copper sealing washers sold these days with all sorts of brake parts are a lot harder than the ones that used to be sold, and the new ones can be ridiculously hard to seal. I have not cut one apart but I suspect they are a copper coated steel or just a copper colored alloy. Where to get the older style, softer copper sealing washers is a good questions.
Click to expand...

Or even brass nowadays, and it causes the same problems.
I noticed some of the replacement oil drain plug washers are brass now also.

Anything to cut costs I guess.
 
jdsduster said:
he knows,he is using sarcasism.grammer cop also.
Click to expand...
A bit bizarre to judge others. I truly did not recognize what "brake valve" referred to. When he mentioned "proportioning valve", it started to make sense.

We still haven't seen a photo pointing to the leak from the OP, or even a text description, so I am done w/ this thread.
 
I have cured my leaking problem . I got a factory valve and I put all new seals in it , no leaks but I now have brake light on the dash that will not go out . We did a revers bleed pushed fluid to the master cylinder getting all the air out of the lines but the light will not go out . Any help is welcome Thank you Waco Demon
 
Pull the wire off the prop valve. If the light goes out, the slider in the valve is stuck. If it stays on, you have a problem elsewhere. Most likely the switch on the pedal.
 
We pulled the plug and the light went out .The piston is stuck over to one side the valve has all new O-rings Waco Demon
 
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