Learning to paint....

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Cuda416

Cuda416

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Ok, folks. Just a couple of simple questions, with a ton of not-so-simple answers.....

How did you learn to paint cars?
How have you evolved as a painter since your "early" days?

I want to learn to paint and although I don't think it's beyond me, I know there's more that I don't know, than I do and nothing will replace experience.

I plan on "fixing" a dented truck fender and practicing on it. But aside from that, if you were ever wanting to teach someone to paint, well, here's your chance.

-=C
 
doug 371 said:
tons of good info on u tube...
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Yup, seen a lot of them and lots of varying opinions etc. I've seen the work and results from people who post here and do things in the garage and I'm amazed. Not going to get the "wisdom" of these folks in a 10 or 20 minute video.
-=C
 
I'm still learning myself, and decided to stick to pretty much one You Tube guy....and that's Gunman in Australia. I've learned a lot from watching his videos. On the advice of @Alex5280 , I bought a Devilbis Tekna Pro Lite spray gun a few years ago. It was one of the best tool investments that I've ever made. I use it to spray base and clear only. It just takes practice, and watching every move you make with the gun to get good results. The most recent thing I painted was the Leer truck cap for my wife's Dakota. It turned out great, even if I did do it...lol.
 
JDMopar said:
I'm still learning myself, and decided to stick to pretty much one You Tube guy....and that's Gunman in Australia. I've learned a lot from watching his videos. On the advice of @Alex5280 , I bought a Devilbis Tekna Pro Lite spray gun a few years ago. It was one of the best tool investments that I've ever made. I use it to spray base and clear only. It just takes practice, and watching every move you make with the gun to get good results. The most recent thing I painted was the Leer truck cap for my wife's Dakota. It turned out great, even if I did do it...lol.
Click to expand...

I have to admit, I'm that guy who sees enormous value in buying the "right" tool once and making it last forever, but I'm a cheap ***. lol. I have been looking at the Finishline set. I figure that's a "good enough" option for me. Then again, the eventual goal will be to paint my 70 vert so I might just bite the bullet....

What do you use for primer and/or epoxies?
 
Learned to Paint by doing at 16 years old on neighbors cars, farm truck etc. Going to have to run some paint off the edge to get the feel of it, don't get discouraged it's all part of the learning.

Then 2 years later I enrolled in Auto Body and Paint school here in Minneapolis and learned how to do it right. Was the top Painter here at the St. Paul MN Peterbilt Truck dealership for a couple of years back in the late 70s.

Best recommendations for starters is get a decent spray gun that will throw a nice even wide pattern. Then get a good air compressor that supplies plenty of air, like 5 hp 220 electric motor, 5hp 2 stage pump, and at least 60 gallon tank . . 80 is better.

I have pretty much been through "anything that can go wrong, will go wrong" senarios, that is what makes you an expert to be able to recognize potential problems and take proper steps to avoid them before they get out of hand.

Here is one of the Peterbilt Trucks I painted back in the day at the Peterbilt Dealership pictured below. One of my favorite careers, could hardly wait to get to work the next day after painting the trucks to unmask and see the final outcome. Great time as a young man, and a great bunch of guys to work with there too . . all very talented.

20201009_082643.jpg
 
George Jets said:
Learned to Paint by doing at 16 years old on neighbors cars, farm truck etc. Going to have to run some paint off the edge to get the feel of it, don't get discouraged it's all part of the learning.

Then 2 years later I enrolled in Auto Body and Paint school here in Minneapolis and learned how to do it right. Was the top Painter here at the St. Paul MN Peterbilt Truck dealership for a couple of years back in the late 70s.

Best recommendations for starters is get a decent spray gun that will throw a nice even wide pattern. Then get a good air compressor that supplies plenty of air, like 5 hp 220 electric motor, 5hp 2 stage pump, and at least 60 gallon tank . . 80 is better.

I have pretty much been through "anything that can go wrong, will go wrong" senarios, that is what makes you an expert to be able to recognize potential problems and take proper steps to avoid them before they get out of hand.

Here is one of the Peterbilt Trucks I painted back in the day at the Peterbilt Dealership pictured below. One of my favorite careers, could hardly wait to get to work the next day after painting the trucks to unmask and see the final outcome. Great time as a young man, and a great bunch of guys to work with there too . . all very talented.

View attachment 1715609276
Click to expand...

I actually went to body school at Hennepin Tech when is still called that as a high school alternative thing (86). Afternoons were spent welding and smashing metal but it's been a very long time and never started painting. HVLP was brand new then.

Thanks for the advice.
-=C
 
I bought this kit. I use 1 for clear only and the other for base coat. Little gun works good too. Aluminium cups not plastic is a big plus when it comes to cleanup. Painted both of minee in garage with this kit.

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You might also go to site of Southern Polyurethanes. Many people on FABO use their products, they have a very good tech guy and lots of info on their site.
Every body guy hs his own ways, and you have to take all info and find what will work for YOU and then get experience. You will make mistakes, BUT they can all be corrected. It is just metal and paint!
Just like building a house, the foundation is key. You topcoat will appear no better than what you did prior!!
Use quality products,they do not have to be the highest pried either. NO... Rusteolum will not withstand UV rays for long as a topcoat.
 
barbee6043 said:
You might also go to site of Southern Polyurethanes. Many people on FABO use their products, they have a very good tech guy and lots of info on their site.
Every body guy hs his own ways, and you have to take all info and find what will work for YOU and then get experience. You will make mistakes, BUT they can all be corrected. It is just metal and paint!
Just like building a house, the foundation is key. You topcoat will appear no better than what you did prior!!
Use quality products,they do not have to be the highest pried either. NO... Rusteolum will not withstand UV rays for long as a topcoat.
Click to expand...

But the guy on the U tube said rustoleum was da bomb!
 
Cuda416 said:
But the guy on the U tube said rustoleum was da bomb!
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LOL!!! I know you are jolking! But not everyone knows the guy on UTube is also a duffous!!!! LOL
I love it for floor pans, bottoms of drivers and yes it is very tough and durable! But it is not intended to be a topcoat for autos!!!!! There is a reason Rustoleum is $30 a gal and decent single stage acryllic urethane or enamel is $265 plus hardner and reducer.
 
barbee6043 said:
LOL!!! I know you are jolking! But not everyone knows the guy on UTube is also a duffous!!!! LOL
I love it for floor pans, bottoms of drivers and yes it is very tough and durable! But it is not intended to be a topcoat for autos!!!!! There is a reason Rustoleum is $30 a gal and decent single stage acryllic urethane or enamel is $265 plus hardner and reducer.
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BTW, I leaned about SPI not long ago when researching epoxy primers. Seems there stuff is more "sandable" than others. I've seen/heard nothing negative about them, that's for sure.
 
Eastwood has a ton of video's that I found helpful. Painting takes a while to get the hang of it. But the body work is the hard part IMO, getting the panels strait takes a lot of sanding and time.
 
Don K said:
Eastwood has a ton of video's that I found helpful. Painting takes a while to get the hang of it. But the body work is the hard part IMO, getting the panels strait takes a lot of sanding and time.
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Ha, my best friend in high school had a dad who was a bodyman/painter. Said any knuckle-dragger could get a car straight, painting was hard. I've head so many say the opposite. All depends on what you're good at i guess.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Opp's I never put the kit up. Too busy posting pics lol
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N1E9Y8/?tag=fabo03-20
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I've seen those recommended by some toobers as well.

Not that I know anything specific, but it seems the thing to want is something with good atomization and a nice wide spray pattern. Obviously they seem to work well based on your cars (awesome btw). How big of a deal to get parts for them is it?
 
Here's my two cents...

I watched Kevin Tetz (Eastwood Paintucation) on youtube. He goes into everything from fixing dents, to block sanding to spraying, even how to setup the compressor.

I also read the tech sheets on SPI website for their epoxy and high build primers and clears.

I never did any bodywork or painting before and I sprayed this with a Devilbiss Techna Prolite. (base and clear)

I used an eastwood Concours LT for primers.

IMG_20200926_135402226_HDR.jpg


IMG_20200926_135442606_HDR.jpg


IMG_20200920_030304217.jpg
 
There are lots of variables that can affect the outcome of the topcoat/clear, ie temperature, humidity,speed of the reducer, capacity of compressor, not to mention how the gun is dialed in. It can be amazing how some little thing like temp an cause a lot of trouble!!
I love the SPI stuff but as their tech sheet notes, be aware you can have a delayed reaction with their epoxy primer and metal acid prep like OSPHO.
 
barbee6043 said:
There are lots of variables that can affect the outcome of the topcoat/clear, ie temperature, humidity,speed of the reducer, capacity of compressor, not to mention how the gun is dialed in. It can be amazing how some little thing like temp an cause a lot of trouble!!
I love the SPI stuff but as their tech sheet notes, be aware you can have a delayed reaction with their epoxy primer and metal acid prep like OSPHO.
Click to expand...

If not neutralized, for sure! Barry, who is one of the owners, is absolutely amazing. He gives out his personal number and you can text him or call for tech support. He help me set up my gun along other numerous things.
 
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