Lets See Your Big Block Test Stand

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PROSTOCKTOM

PROSTOCKTOM

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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I am going to build a new big block engine test stand and wondered what everyone else is using and what they look like.

Trying to get some ideas for a better mouse trap.

Thanks,
Tom
 
I need to make one myself, although I've used my buddies dyno so far.
 
I built this one years ago. Has had lots of different engines on it. I run every engine I build on this run stand before it goes in the vehicle.




 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
I am going to build a new big block engine test stand and wondered what everyone else is using and what they look like.

Trying to get some ideas for a better mouse trap.

Thanks,
Tom
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I've thought about doing this myself but, I just use my car's engine bay. It takes up less storage space and by the time I fabbed-up something, the materials and time weren't worth it for me.
MOPARMAGA said:
I need to make one myself, although I've used my buddies dyno so far.
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Right, that's where I'm at. If I'm going to 'test' it, why stop at leaks? May as well go to dyno or just drop it on the mounts in the car. I think the biggest reason for me is the space it uses.
 
I’ve run several engines on my run stand. Cost $60 to build. All scrap metal I had laying around.

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9secRR said:
I’ve run several engines on my run stand. Cost $60 to build. All scrap metal I had laying around.

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$60? That's interesting with a radiator, fuel pump/regulator/lines/fittings, misc gages, linkage, wiring and ignition. The casters are probably over $60 around these parts. Even if you removed most that stuff from the car temporarily, it's time. Some of that stuff isn't quickly removed from a vehicle either. Time translates to money.
 
ValiantS said:
$60? That's interesting with a radiator, fuel pump/regulator/lines/fittings, misc gages, linkage, wiring and ignition. The casters are probably over $60 around these parts. Even if you removed most that stuff from the car temporarily, it's time. Some of that stuff isn't quickly removed from a vehicle either. Time translates to money.
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Yes $60. I bought the castors. Everything is from my car. Rad, ignition…..

I built it for me so I can’t change labour if that’s what you ere getting at?
 
It's the perfect place for the giant motor home radiator that I saved and the cracked and welded bell housing that you can't sell. The passenger exhaust manifold has the normal small crack in it. A lot of stuff is available cheap or free around here.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I have a run stand sitting right outside the shop.

It’s yours if you want it. You can run stuff on the stand then get it on the pump.
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Ill take you up on that. Just need to organize my entire life before I come get it lol
 
ValiantS said:
I've thought about doing this myself but, I just use my car's engine bay. It takes up less storage space and by the time I fabbed-up something, the materials and time weren't worth it for me.

Right, that's where I'm at. If I'm going to 'test' it, why stop at leaks? May as well go to dyno or just drop it on the mounts in the car. I think the biggest reason for me is the space it uses.
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For me the run stand makes the most sense when you’re building something for someone else and they don’t want to pay to dyno it. It lets me control the first start (and cam break in if FT) and gives them a chance to see and hear the engine before they take it. Kinda releases the builder of responsibility when the owner inevitably screws something up putting it in the car.
 
TT5.9mag said:
For me the run stand makes the most sense when you’re building something for someone else and they don’t want to pay to dyno it. It lets me control the first start (and cam break in if FT) and gives them a chance to see and hear the engine before they take it. Kinda releases the builder of responsibility when the owner inevitably screws something up putting it in the car.
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Good point
 
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Folds down to less than 10" wide, then there is an engine stand left to build engines on when the run stand is not set up.

Although I have never tore it down yet, always have an engine on it to test carbs and ignitions.

Cheers....


☆☆☆☆☆
 
TT5.9mag said:
For me the run stand makes the most sense when you’re building something for someone else and they don’t want to pay to dyno it. It lets me control the first start (and cam break in if FT) and gives them a chance to see and hear the engine before they take it. Kinda releases the builder of responsibility when the owner inevitably screws something up putting it in the car.
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This does make sense to me now.
 
ValiantS said:
This does make sense to me now.
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For a while I did a few 350hp-450hp driver type engines (LS, sbc, sbm,) and it’s not really worth dyno tuning them. They’re kinda cookie cutter and repeatable. That’s when I decided to build a run stand, and the customer is always excited to hear their engine run. It’s a win win.
 
We use a modified overseas run stand. For final mock up I build engine cradles that allow a starter, bellhousing, and headers to bolt on to check for clearance issues. Much easier to go from steel table for cleaning to a conventional engine stand for prep/assembly, then to the home built deal and lastly to the run stand. This method works well especially if you are going to to the engine dyno next. I think of the run stand as a dress rehearsal.
 
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