Lifter ID ?

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Divenut

Divenut

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Hey Folks,

Anyone happen to know what brand this lifter might be? Motor was built by a prior owner, and there's no documentation. So, I'm trying to figure out a bit more about it.

72 340, KB higher CR 1970 replacement pistons, unknown cam grind, but seems to have a fair amount of overlap. Forged crank.

Thanks in advance for any info you may be able to provide.

Be well,.
Pat
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Divenut said:
Hey Folks,

Any happen to know what brand this lifter might be? Motor was built by a prior owner, and there's no documentation. So, I'm trying to figure out a bit more about it.

72 340, KB higher CR 1970 replacement pistons, unknown cam grind, but seems to have a fair amount of overlap. Forged crank.

Thanks in advance for any info you may be able to provide.

Be well,.
PatView attachment 1716278891View attachment 1716278892

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Those are solid "dumbbell" lifters.
 
Basically, /6 solid lifters.

40-ish years ago, PAW sold those in a Milodon box as “light weight” solid lifters.
I put them in a 440 with a Racer Brown solid lifter cam…..and that combo yielded basically zero oil pressure.
A switch to the normal smooth body lifters and all was good.
 
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I don't recommend running those lifters with a cam that has a lot of lift. They are basically a stock small block/slant six solid lifter. What happens with a high lift cam the base circle of the cam is smaller that the factory base circle. So when the lifter is on the base circle the lifter can drop far enough to expose the reduced diameter and that allows oil pressure to blead off. . The first 273 engine I ever built (back in the '70's) didn't have oil pressure (cam was .520 lift). I tore my hair out trying to find the problem. Eventually removed the oil pan, and distributer, used a container with oil in it on the pump pickup, and ran the oil pump with a drill. Then we could see all the oil leaking from the lifter bores. As PRH said, use the straight side lifters, unless running a almost stock cam.
PS: The reason for the reduced diameter is to allow less restriction to oil flow through the main oil galleries. I haven't work on a performance small block for years, so I can't say for sure. But I would guess there is a "FIX" for reduced oil flow if using straight side lifters.
 
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Charrlie_S said:
I don't recommend running those lifters with a cam that has a lot of lift. They are basically a stock small block/slant six solid lifter. What happens with a high lift cam the base circle of the cam is smaller that the factory base circle. So when the lifter is on the base circle the lifter can drop far enough to expose the reduced diameter and that allows oil pressure to blead off. . The first 273 engine I ever built (back in the '70's) didn't have oil pressure (cam was .520 lift). I tore my hair out trying to find the problem. Eventually removed the oil pan, and distributer, used a container with oil in it on the pump pickup, and ran the oil pump with a drill. Then we could see all the oil leaking from the lifter bores. As PRH said, use the straight side lifters, unless running a almost stock cam.
PS: The reason for the reduced diameter is to allow less restriction to oil flow through the main oil galleries. I haven't work on a performance small block for years, so I can't say for sure. But I would guess there is a "FIX" for reduced oil flow if using straight side lifters.
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That can happen for sure. Original lifter out of my 273.

solid lifter.jpg
 
I don't see why you cannot run them on a higher lift cam, MP sold a .590 lift solid cam kit with those type lifters in the kit. I run that particular cam for years in a street car with no problems and I beat the car like it owed me money.
 
Demonracer said:
I don't see why you cannot run them on a higher lift cam, MP sold a .590 lift solid cam kit with those type lifters in the kit. I run that particular cam for years in a street car with no problems and I beat the car like it owed me money.
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Thanks for the information. Much appreciated. I am planning on continuing to run them. While the cam is not stock, I wouldn't consider it radical/full race. Figured I'd try to determined what sorta parts were in the motor. Looks like who ever built it used lots of old Mopar pieces.

I'm reusing the adjustable rocker arms, shaft and push rods in the new heads as well.
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Demonracer said:
I don't see why you cannot run them on a higher lift cam, MP sold a .590 lift solid cam kit with those type lifters in the kit. I run that particular cam for years in a street car with no problems and I beat the car like it owed me money.
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Very possible there will be no problem. Could be a situation of manufacturing tolerance. Maybe the difference between my old 273 and a newer LA engine. Just posting a previous hair pulling issue, based on (Very) old experience.
 
As long as the lifter bores are within spec and the dumbbell opening does not go pass the top or bottom of the lifter bore opening you should be fine. If the dumbbell open is exposed on either end of the lifter bore, you will lose oil pressure. You should check each lifter bore to be sure.
 
Rocket said:
As long as the lifter bores are within spec and the dumbbell opening does not go pass the top or bottom of the lifter bore opening you should be fine. If the dumbbell open is exposed on either end of the lifter bore, you will lose oil pressure. You should check each lifter bore to be sure.
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Checked and good to go. Thx much
 
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