lifter trouble

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mr.318

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cranked er up to pull it in the garage tonight to change intakes ticking loud figured i' check the rockers and all since swaping intakes anyway number 3 cyld. rocker real loose pulled rockers bottom of lifter looks like it's been beat with hammer oneside is 1/4 inch shorter like wore it an angle found 2 more thats wearing at an angle not nearly as bad anyway this motor only has 30 miles on it new kb167 pistons 0.40.bore zerodecked new compcam 230/480 @ 50 got the heads from areoheads told em my specs. suppoese to be 318 castings 202 vavles they have large ports like 4barll. heads i'm thinking they sent me 360 heads they grind casting numbers off the machine shop that milled my blocked said stock pushrods would work there not bent i've put some money on this motor what could it be i broke the cam in i'm scared to replace the cam and lifters in fear of it doing it again 60 mile motor 2 cams help i built my sons 360 put an lunati 494 lift cam in it used stock rockers an pushrods 5 years ago still runs good i'm thinking the milling or the heads are throwing somthing out of whack :cussing:
 
just wanted to add i checked the preload on the rockers all within the 30.thousands range if the milling had it off wouldn't it bend a pushrod before doing that damage to the lifter compcams site showed an lifter like mine said caused by lack of oil during break in or motor turned over to long before starting i did have the dist. 180 off at first but didn't turn it alot before starting i have 80 pounds cold 50 hot at idle 70 hot at 1500 rpm i have an crane 268 cam still scared to try it anybody with any input
 
What oil was used? How long was it from the time the engine was asembled to when it was fired in the car? What additives wre used in the oil if any? Did you preoil it? was the lifter rotation verified during assembly? 302 heads have a closed chamber (smaller, and you cant see the full diameter of the cylinder on the head). All 340/360 LA heads have larger open chambers (where you can see the whoel round shape. So what did the chambers look like? I have enlarged the 318 sized intake ports to 340/360, but you need to do a bit more work than just that to make them work. It's a lot of work when a cam is destroyed. Especially with hyper style pistons. You MUST (IMO anyway) pull the engine out, and completely disasemble it. Down to the bare block, and clean out all the iron particles that are now pumping thru the oil system, getting caught between the pistons and walls, and destrying the rings and skirts. The cam needs to be replaced, but building performance engines has changed a lot in the last few years. Things have changed, that is seperating out the "good builders" and average builders. If every little item isnt checked and verified, failure will result. 5 years ago,m this was not really the case. DO NOT keep running the engine. Drop the oil from the pan if you doubt me. The cam material will look like metallic glitter, and is too small to get caught in the filter. My guess is, the pistons, oil pump, pickup, bearins, cam bearings are already showing signs of contamination. The wrong oil can cause this. As can not having the engine fire instantly.
 
i used 10-30 mobil coatedcam with lube that came with it preoiled but it did take a while to crank i had a wire break that went to the control unit took awhile to find it
 
Mobil syenth oil? That would be bad.
 
Wiped cam - put in a new one and use diesel oil like rotella. Break in at 2000-2500 rpm for 20-30 minutes once you get it running. Continue to use diesel oil, it has additives (trace zinc) that gasoline engine oil now lacks - thank the EPA for the change, probably why your first cam wiped.
 
How long ya supposed to use the rotella for? I dumped mine after 100 miles and went to castrol 10/30 ,,,,,,too soon? Should I go back to rotella? What viscocity?
 
I use castrol 10 w 40 and stp oil treatment on breakin and ever after-stp is a cheap way to get the required zinc.
 
all this engine oil talk,,i didnt know that gas engine oil has changed,,shell rotella is 15/40,,i cant imagine how much oil pressure ide have with that heavy oil,i use that in my cumins dodge,,,and 30 sae in my cuda,,,straight weight was once upon a time recomended by mopar racing manual.

i have a colapased lifter in my 241 ci dodge hemi in my street rod,,,my next project comming up,,,pull it apart and change the lifters,,and maybe adjustable push rods,,,rotella oil????? stp??? for zinc????

excuse me for knot knowing,,,but some one clue me in on this stp for zinc ?or rotella????? or where i can read on it please,...

e mail me please [email protected] thanks don
 
i'm gonna use 273 ajustable rockers hyd.cam what pushrods should i use also do i ajust rocker till pushrod won't turn then one turn at tdc zero lash no feeler gauge i'm lost with this zerolash can someone explain it to me seems everybody dose it differnt guess i need directions 4 a dummy help a dummy out
 
We have run Valvoline racing oil for over 15 years and had no engine problems we could track back to oil. Used to run the regular Valvoline Racing oil but then they took the zinc out. Now we run the new Valvoline "not street legal" Racing oil which has the zinc back in it for bearing and cam and lifter protection. You are not supposed to run in a street vehicle. They say if your vehicle burns any oil, the zinc will ruin your O2 sensors and eventually your catalytic converter.
You can get from any NAPA Auto Parts at $3.79 per quart. Available as 10w30[part#850], 20w50[part#851] and straight 50w[part#852]. Also available in full synthetic. Make sure what you get says "not street legal".
 
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