Log book question
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Date
Track
Event
RUN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
time-
lane-
reaction-
60 ft-
330 ft-
660 ft-
mph-
dial in-
tire psi frt-
tire psi rear-
temp-
humidity-
barometer-
density altitude-
this is what I keep up with. I don't buy a book. I print off my on sheets using microsoft word, and keep them in a three ring binder.
Track
Event
RUN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
time-
lane-
reaction-
60 ft-
330 ft-
660 ft-
mph-
dial in-
tire psi frt-
tire psi rear-
temp-
humidity-
barometer-
density altitude-
this is what I keep up with. I don't buy a book. I print off my on sheets using microsoft word, and keep them in a three ring binder.
75DartSE
Well-Known Member
We use a jegs book I believe. Rather inexpensive. I also just purchased the Race IQ app for my phone. It's supposed to do all that plus a predictor if you have the weather info. It can also complete a run if you have other full runs logged and you lift at the 1000ft or pedal a bracket race or whatever happens. The app was only 2.99 on the apple App Store.
be carful with those run predictors. I have seen guys use them but not for very long. it may get you close every once in a while, but more times than not will leave you hanging if you use it to dial your car. the best tool is a big log book full of runs with a car that has been set up and not touched. study it and you will learn your car like the back of your hand.
this is just how I do it.
I'm about to run first round and need to dial the car. I just went a 6.78 on my practice run. looking back over my log book I see that my car almost always speeds up 2 numbers after my first pass of the day, because now all fluids and the drivetrain are up to temp. to account for this I need to put a 6.76 on the car.
I also look at my weather station and take note that the density altitude is 1278ft. at this point I look back through my log book and find runs I have made with a similar DA. I find 3 runs and the ET's were 6.772, 6.767, and 6.759. I use these runs to confirm that a 6.76 is the best dial in.
I cut a good light and have the guy in the other lane covered by a mile at the finish line. I drag the brakes just before the finish line and run a 6.812. Now how do I know if I was gonna run my 6.76 dial in or not? well, I take the ET slip look at my 60 ft and 330ft times. I now go to my log book and look at runs with similar 60 ft and 330ft times where I made a full pass, and check to see what ET the car ran on those passes. i find 4 passes that are close, and the full track times were 6.771, 6.766, 6.763, and 6.770. I can see that the car was on track to run the dial in or just a few thousandths over. to double confirm that you could take your current 330ft time and subtract your current 60ft time from it to come up with how long it took you to get from 60ft to 330ft. now do the same with those 4 similar runs in the log book, and see how close the numbers from the old runs are to you current one. the same can also be done for 330ft to 660ft. say on those 4 old runs you have subtracted the 330ft time from the 660ft time. now you add them up and divide that number by 4 to find the average for those 4 runs. say you're average came up to be 2.598 seconds. take that number and add it to the 330ft time on the run where you were on the brakes. say that 330ft time was 4.170. well 4.170 plus 2.598 is 6.768. so looks like you were on track to run your dial in. take that info and use it to dial for the next round.
long winded I know, and kind of off track with the original question. however, I wish when I first started bracket racing that some long winded clown would have posted something like this for me to read. hope it helps somebody. I'm going to bed, lol.
this is just how I do it.
I'm about to run first round and need to dial the car. I just went a 6.78 on my practice run. looking back over my log book I see that my car almost always speeds up 2 numbers after my first pass of the day, because now all fluids and the drivetrain are up to temp. to account for this I need to put a 6.76 on the car.
I also look at my weather station and take note that the density altitude is 1278ft. at this point I look back through my log book and find runs I have made with a similar DA. I find 3 runs and the ET's were 6.772, 6.767, and 6.759. I use these runs to confirm that a 6.76 is the best dial in.
I cut a good light and have the guy in the other lane covered by a mile at the finish line. I drag the brakes just before the finish line and run a 6.812. Now how do I know if I was gonna run my 6.76 dial in or not? well, I take the ET slip look at my 60 ft and 330ft times. I now go to my log book and look at runs with similar 60 ft and 330ft times where I made a full pass, and check to see what ET the car ran on those passes. i find 4 passes that are close, and the full track times were 6.771, 6.766, 6.763, and 6.770. I can see that the car was on track to run the dial in or just a few thousandths over. to double confirm that you could take your current 330ft time and subtract your current 60ft time from it to come up with how long it took you to get from 60ft to 330ft. now do the same with those 4 similar runs in the log book, and see how close the numbers from the old runs are to you current one. the same can also be done for 330ft to 660ft. say on those 4 old runs you have subtracted the 330ft time from the 660ft time. now you add them up and divide that number by 4 to find the average for those 4 runs. say you're average came up to be 2.598 seconds. take that number and add it to the 330ft time on the run where you were on the brakes. say that 330ft time was 4.170. well 4.170 plus 2.598 is 6.768. so looks like you were on track to run your dial in. take that info and use it to dial for the next round.
long winded I know, and kind of off track with the original question. however, I wish when I first started bracket racing that some long winded clown would have posted something like this for me to read. hope it helps somebody. I'm going to bed, lol.
75DartSE
Well-Known Member
That's very good info. Wouldn't say it's long winded but rather a good explanation. That's how we operate except we run the 1/4 so we have more increments. Same thing though with comparing similar condition past runs. I will still operate this way and compare results to the race iq. Our book has the slot for guessed et so I will put the number from the app there for reference. It's hard to go away from the old tried and true hard copy info. Lol.
Jegs keeps sending me log books for free...not sure how I accomplished that, but I'm thankful. As far as dialing your car, 71gtdart's explanation is a great way to dial when you start racing.....for the more experienced racer if you want to get really good at driving the stripe, say for example your car runs 7.00 in practice, just dial something like 7.10 first round. You will either get good at driving the finish line, or you will be buying back in a LOT.
THanks Fish-I follow you all the time on here,That my friend is where we learn and get wisdom from you guy's that have been in the trenches ,I so much respect you because you even wanted to slow your car down to still race !!!!!!! No that's intestinal fortitude !!!!!!!! Steve
WOW 71gt--THAT SHOULD BE A STICKY !!!!!!!!!! That help big time to me,My son is the driver and I'm the chassis and support for him and this will be our first "REAL" season racing and I'm trying to cram all this stuff into the concrete between my ears--And it gets harder every year---Steve
This is what I use because I'm too cheap to buy a weather station.
http://airdensityonline.com/tracks/?filter=222
Just look up your track and you're good to go. Good luck racing this year, and have fun.
http://airdensityonline.com/tracks/?filter=222
Just look up your track and you're good to go. Good luck racing this year, and have fun.
Jegs keeps sending me log books for free...not sure how I accomplished that, but I'm thankful. As far as dialing your car, 71gtdart's explanation is a great way to dial when you start racing.....for the more experienced racer if you want to get really good at driving the stripe, say for example your car runs 7.00 in practice, just dial something like 7.10 first round. You will either get good at driving the finish line, or you will be buying back in a LOT.
come on now Fishy! you aint one of them guys that likes to sand bag and just barely put a tire in front of the opponent all the way down the track are you?
LOL
that works great UNTIL.......
1. the guy kills you on the tree
2. he runs dead on his number with a great light
3. he breaks out, and you break out worst because of trying to stay just in front.
there are some other things that experienced drivers do.
like take note of guys who play games and remember, lol.
when these racers know a guy likes to hold numbers they throw a curve ball.
things like holding a few numbers themselves and waiting until the last minute at the finish line to slam on the brakes and let the sandbagger take the stripe and break out.
I'm gonna tell you straight up who the hardest racer to beat is.
the guy that kills the tree and runs dead on. he don't ever have to guess where he is time wise on the race track. he knows he is dialed for what the car will run and if it comes down to it at the finish line he can hit it wide open. you aint gonna beat him very many times no matter what kinda game you try to play.
Dang it Fishy!!!!! I never would have had you pegged as one of "those guys".
SAY IT AIN'T SO!!!!!!! LOL!!!!!
Haha, oh, what I was trying to say was doing that will improve your finish line driving skills. Probably don't want to do very often or racers will get wise....not that I would ever do that during a race.......
......well, at least not that much, lol.I do hold a few once in a while, like if the track is crap, but only a couple of hundredths. Holding a tenth is a little much...but it works for learning purposes.
Learn to run your numbers.
I've put more guys on the trailer that are playing racing games.
Last time out my cars package was .017,.o18 and .021
Let them play there games.
Summit sends log books if you ask when you order.
I've put more guys on the trailer that are playing racing games.
Last time out my cars package was .017,.o18 and .021
Let them play there games.
Summit sends log books if you ask when you order.
75DartSE
Well-Known Member
Just checked that site out, it's pretty nice. I also have the 1320GO app on my phone that does live timing and it shows the weather, but I'm not sure how accurate it is. With 1320GO you can also look up everyone's past runs that day to "spy" on their runs to know their games, RT's, and consistency. It really bugs some people that all their info is posted like that for all to see, but it doesn't bother me and I just try to use it as another tool for info.
Remember, you are racing yourself, not the guy next to you. Run your numbers, shift points, and reaction time. Great reaction times with consistent driving, and a car that's consistent, you will be moving on to the next round. People that focus on the guy next to them loose.
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