looking for roll bar application question

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swifter

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Looking at different roll bar kits,Can anyone answer this question--Would a 68 dart kit fit my 68 Valiant,I think same interrior and wheel base--Thanks--Steve
 
only thing pre bent is the main hoop.....everything else goes in depending on how and where you want it with in the allowances of the rule book....

just got done installing an 8 pt roll bar in a 71 duster last friday....
 
Summit has a Competition Engineering kit for A bodies.
 
Can't find someone to bend one up so it fits better/tighter?
 
Are you dead set on having a kit? For the extra money a custom cage would fit much nicer, also most kits are made of the heavier mild steel. A shop would give you the option of chromoly which would save a decent amount of weight.
In WI you can look up Scotty K at Chubby Kid Street Cars (CKSC) or look up Dave Meister around Madison, he did a beautiful job in a friends Talon. I have a guy in n
Janesville that does a ton of welding and Fab and does cage and chassis work
 
I'm open to that anyone know the going rate or cost for a cage???? $1000????? $1500???? Thanks Steve
 
One of the guys i know it's roughly 100 per point.

The Dart bar will likely fit in a Valiant. A Duster/demon/dart sport should be bent a little different.
 
Paid 700 for the labor on my cage, metal was in the neighbor hood of 500.
 
I don't know how close you are to Minneapolis , both TNT and Bob Fuller ( C & F ) are both very good up this way. There was a guy near Eau Claire I bought some parts from that was doing a 66 Fairlane super stocker and his workmanship was excellent......but I can't remember his name. He has to be known in the area though......you can't hide talent like that.
 
the cage in my Duster. Had it done by Comp Chassis in Glendale AZ. I'm not enough of a welder to take on projects of this caliber.

 
Found my notes when from when I talked to a fellow in Oregon a couple of years back. He quoted me 2k for a full cage, snout bars included, subframe connectors, spring relocation/mini tub and the rear firewall......
 
I think I paid $400 for the comp engineering kit with the rear seat saver back bars and installed it myself. That's a whole lot cheaper than $1,500-2,000.
 
Right now is the time to buy material. If you have a way of figuring out how much you need I may still be able to get it for a low price through a connection I have. That's on chromoly tubing. IF we go to war the price of moly will likely double!
 
SpareParts said:
Right now is the time to buy material. If you have a way of figuring out how much you need I may still be able to get it for a low price through a connection I have. That's on chromoly tubing. IF we go to war the price of moly will likely double!
Click to expand...

I bought 120' of tubing for mine. Snout bars, a pillar, front hoop, dash (under it) tube, with an x- brace. Think Jim had 4' left over. Jim has been building a-body cages for decades now.

I seem to remember some one telling me one of the problems with a cm cage is that over time it gets stress hardened and gets brittle.....though I seen it somewhere in a rule book...Might have been a score rule book....Hmmmmmm.....
 
inkjunkie said:
I bought 120' of tubing for mine. Snout bars, a pillar, front hoop, dash (under it) tube, with an x- brace. Think Jim had 4' left over. Jim has been building a-body cages for decades now.

I seem to remember some one telling me one of the problems with a cm cage is that over time it gets stress hardened and gets brittle.....though I seen it somewhere in a rule book...Might have been a score rule book....Hmmmmmm.....
Click to expand...

I have heard something about that but idk how much of a factor it is when you consider a car may race for years with an 8.50 cert cage then later in life say they want to update to a faster cert they typically just build off of the existing cage, I would think if the stress and fatigue were truly a problem they would remove the old bars. Not saying anybody is right or wrong, just a thought.
 
SpareParts said:
I have heard something about that but idk how much of a factor it is when you consider a car may race for years with an 8.50 cert cage then later in life say they want to update to a faster cert they typically just build off of the existing cage, I would think if the stress and fatigue were truly a problem they would remove the old bars. Not saying anybody is right or wrong, just a thought.
Click to expand...

I can not find where I seen it. Spoke to a friend earlier today that did some fab work for a while. He told me that the problem with a cm cage is indeed they become brittle, if there is any movement in them at all. He mentioned that he did see something a while back in the SCORE rule book about not using chrome moly in the cab of trucks in certain classes....He also told me that chrome moly tubing is not any lighter than mild steel, when you compare apples to apples. He said that the reason a moly cage is lighter than a mild steel one is because the material is thinner. He priced out some projects for folks, he said that the moly cage, depending on how elaborate, was often more than double a mild steel one, thanks to the tig welding....

For a bracket car he just kinda chuckled when I asked him about using chrome moly....he said it is far cheaper to just use a mild cage and run the half tenth slower from the extra 50 pounds or so that the mild steel cage will bring....
 
Thanks Very useful info--I've been looking at-Chris Alston,Auto-weld,Art Morrison stuff--Steve
 
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