504DusterIR
Well-Known Member
Hello how are y'all doing ?, I changed out my headlights an now my low beams won't work.My high beams turn on but low beams won't does anyone have any advice on what it could be ?
Low beams
- Thread starter 504DusterIR
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If all you did was change the bulb I would suspect the connectors or some wiring from the bulkhead connectors to the bulbs
504DusterIR
Well-Known Member
Ok...I was looking at the floor switch that turns on the high beams so any of those wires deal with the low beams there's 3 an one of them are not connected? I take a picture an post it
504DusterIR
Well-Known Member
That will do it!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That LOOKS like a mess. Are the other two wires all mashed up? That is your dimmer switch for the HEADLIGHTS. Think about rocketing down the road at 70.........and........darkness.
What year is the vehicle? depending, you can download a free factory service manual from MyMopar.com
What year is the vehicle? depending, you can download a free factory service manual from MyMopar.com
504DusterIR
Well-Known Member
Ok that you , I looked up dimmer switch connectors,is it as easy as just matching up the wires to same ones? There are not colored they all black
504DusterIR
Well-Known Member
It's A 72 and they are mashed up I found dimmer switch connectors
Two of your wires are still attached. So just be sure the location of each wire in the new connector is the same as the old
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Watchya need.
a. flattened cotter pin, or a hair bobbin, or very small flat screw driver. (or disconnect tool)
b. A pack of "Chrysler" or "Packard 58" terminals for 16-18 gage wire.
c. Wire stripper
d. Open barrel crimper.
Optionally.
De-oxit and a small fiber brush for cleaning, shrink type or liquid electrical tape.
New connector (plastic housing) if the old one is heat damaged.
Non-sticky electrical harness tape to rewrap the bundle.
Remove the wire terminals from the housing using the release tool (a)
Strip back the insulation on the broken terminal connection 1/4" or so. If the copper is OK, then clean and attach new terminal with crimping tool (d). Its best to practice crimping with a spare termianl and scrap wire first.
If the copper is oxidized badly, strip back until you find good copper. Then clean and cover with flexible shrink tubing (can buy from McMaster-Carr) or splice in a new section of wire.
Which wire does what.
Go to page 8-151 in the 1972 Plymouth Chassis Service Manual.
L2A is labelled "Battery". That's shorthand to let us know this is connected to a power supply.
16LGN tells us its a 16 gage light green wire.
And of course the illustration shows that wire going to the middle position.
On your car look at the connector as its attached to the switch and see if the L3 18 gage red wire is on the left.
If so, then that confirms the illustration is showing the connector from the side the wires enter.
If all the lines on the drawings seem overwhelming, then trace just the circuit you are interested in. Or print and colorize. Whatever makes it clearer to you.
a. flattened cotter pin, or a hair bobbin, or very small flat screw driver. (or disconnect tool)
b. A pack of "Chrysler" or "Packard 58" terminals for 16-18 gage wire.
c. Wire stripper
d. Open barrel crimper.
Optionally.
De-oxit and a small fiber brush for cleaning, shrink type or liquid electrical tape.
New connector (plastic housing) if the old one is heat damaged.
Non-sticky electrical harness tape to rewrap the bundle.
Remove the wire terminals from the housing using the release tool (a)
Strip back the insulation on the broken terminal connection 1/4" or so. If the copper is OK, then clean and attach new terminal with crimping tool (d). Its best to practice crimping with a spare termianl and scrap wire first.
If the copper is oxidized badly, strip back until you find good copper. Then clean and cover with flexible shrink tubing (can buy from McMaster-Carr) or splice in a new section of wire.
Which wire does what.
Go to page 8-151 in the 1972 Plymouth Chassis Service Manual.
L2A is labelled "Battery". That's shorthand to let us know this is connected to a power supply.
16LGN tells us its a 16 gage light green wire.
And of course the illustration shows that wire going to the middle position.
On your car look at the connector as its attached to the switch and see if the L3 18 gage red wire is on the left.
If so, then that confirms the illustration is showing the connector from the side the wires enter.
If all the lines on the drawings seem overwhelming, then trace just the circuit you are interested in. Or print and colorize. Whatever makes it clearer to you.
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Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum
How to remove a female terminal from the connector housing.
How to crimp open barrel terminals
A neat way of splicing
How to remove a female terminal from the connector housing.
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Inline wiring splice clips........from the Dodge RAM service manual
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I just made that a sticky.
504DusterIR
Well-Known Member
Ok
So much good info , Yea I wasn't sure if I could just reconnect the wire that split due to the other part of the wire being inside the connector housing
504DusterIR
Well-Known Member
Ok so looking at the wire diagram you posted the L3 wire would be for the high beams and L4 for low beams right? Now going to my connector the wire that is snap would be the L3 but my high beams still work, could it been wired backwards from previous owner?
504DusterIR
Well-Known Member
Or the diagram is showing the housing that connects to the dimmer switch , I think that might be how it's being shown
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Off the top of my head I don't know.
This is from my '67.
L2 was light green i(power in)
I'll see what red and black were in 67.
According to the 67 wiring diagram, red has a branch that connects to the high beam indicator in the dash
So check the '72 book and then look at your bulkhead connector to verify.
This is from my '67.
L2 was light green i(power in)
I'll see what red and black were in 67.
According to the 67 wiring diagram, red has a branch that connects to the high beam indicator in the dash
So check the '72 book and then look at your bulkhead connector to verify.
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504DusterIR
Well-Known Member
Ok
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