Low buck 360 rebuild

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EP87

Guest
Hi looking for some input on a low buck rebuild or maybe build up for my son's
Duster, he's 21 and just starting out in life so as you might think moneys a little tight, so he's looking to put what funds he's got to the best use, and use as much of what we already own. and like most of us wants 10.5 sec street car on a maybe 13 sec. budget. Heres some back ground on the car and where were at so far.

The cars a 70 Duster originally a /6 with a 318/904 +disc brake swap out of a 76 dart. 8 1/4 rear end with sure grip and 373 gears. 26 inch rear tires and should weight in at about 3200 lbs.(best guess). The car will be driven maybe a day or two every week in the summer, shows on the weekend, and the late night drags once or twice a month, you know the one where he wants a 10.5 car on a 13sec. budget LOL.

here's what we have so far, fresh 360 block, 30 over KB107 pistons, zero decked. 10/10 reground crank, j heads 1.88 in 1.60 ex.(still need to be machined) eddy air gap manifold (performer i think, dual plane) eddy 650 vac sec. carb. Hooker headers 1 5/8 pri. The 904 will be rebuilt with a shift kit when the 318's pulled.

So first we're looking for some input on the heads, should we have the intakes
oversized for 2.02 or is it worth it on this type of build up. Note: heads will receive some minor port matching on the intake side.

second any cam suggestions to make the most out of this combo.

and last what stall converter.

Any other low buck input would be welcomed.
Thanks Richard
 
So first we're looking for some input on the heads, should we have the intakes
oversized for 2.02 or is it worth it on this type of build up. Note: heads will receive some minor port matching on the intake side.
Click to expand...


if your not cleaning up behind the valve and in the actual ports then don't waste the time or money on the bigger valves.. you aren't really gonna see a difference.
 
If it were mine I would run the comp xe 274 and get 2.02 valves and a bowl blend done.Then when you rebuild the trans I would give superior convertor (in portland) a call and have them build you a convertor,theyre cheap but they work great. Ive personally used several over the years with no problems and very little slippage on the big end at the track.With that set up you should run easy 12s with traction,have a good lope at idle but still have a very streetable car.Im just curious,whos doing your machine work?,the shop I use does great head work and its extremely affordable.
 
For a budget build, just port the head with the valves you have now. Back cut the valves in the head. Fully port the head if possible. Theres more power in this than 2.02's on a minor port job.
Though I myself would rather opt. for a stainless steel set of valves, you did say budget.

If the intake is an Air Gap, it's a RPM. Your good there. The name of the intake is on the manifold somewhere.

The carb is small. Trade/Sell it and roll the money over for a 750 cfm.

A off the shelf cam that will fit into the goal and the rear gear/intake/ported head/carb combo for a strong street strip engine? Whew! The choices and opinions abound on this area! Looking to get as much as I could in these parameters, I'd do a;

Comp Cams XL285HL. This eXtreme Energy Hi-Lift (is the extreme line that takes advatage of the MoPar .904 lifter) cam is givin the description of 2500 - 6500 rpm. A serious street/strip cam with strong mid and upper range RPM power. HI lift design to take advantage of ported heads and single plane intake (Though the RPM performs dead near toe to toe or better than some single plane intakes) w/3000 rpm stall and 9.5-1 comp. ratio. (As a min. of course)
Though you could probably use more gear.

Spec'ed in the catolog as;

Advertised [email protected] all on a 110
........285/297.......241/247....545/.545

Purchase this cam with all the hardware from Comp Cams. It's a package that saves headaches and time. The head will have to be machined for there springs.

This combo should put a smile on everyones face.
 
lead69 said:
If it were mine I would run the comp xe 274 and get 2.02 valves and a bowl blend done.Then when you rebuild the trans I would give superior convertor (in portland) a call and have them build you a convertor,theyre cheap but they work great. Ive personally used several over the years with no problems and very little slippage on the big end at the track.With that set up you should run easy 12s with traction,have a good lope at idle but still have a very streetable car.Im just curious,whos doing your machine work?,the shop I use does great head work and its extremely affordable.
Click to expand...

As far as the machine work the bottom end was done at Modralls in Vancouver, and they seamed to do a good job, but let me know who your using the prices modralls quoted us seamed awful steep. I'll give superior a call next week.
Thanks for the tip.
 
rumblefish360 said:
For a budget build, just port the head with the valves you have now. Back cut the valves in the head. Fully port the head if possible. Theres more power in this than 2.02's on a minor port job.
Though I myself would rather opt. for a stainless steel set of valves, you did say budget.

If the intake is an Air Gap, it's a RPM. Your good there. The name of the intake is on the manifold somewhere.

The carb is small. Trade/Sell it and roll the money over for a 750 cfm.

A off the shelf cam that will fit into the goal and the rear gear/intake/ported head/carb combo for a strong street strip engine? Whew! The choices and opinions abound on this area! Looking to get as much as I could in these parameters, I'd do a;

Comp Cams XL285HL. This eXtreme Energy Hi-Lift (is the extreme line that takes advatage of the MoPar .904 lifter) cam is givin the description of 2500 - 6500 rpm. A serious street/strip cam with strong mid and upper range RPM power. HI lift design to take advantage of ported heads and single plane intake (Though the RPM performs dead near toe to toe or better than some single plane intakes) w/3000 rpm stall and 9.5-1 comp. ratio. (As a min. of course)
Though you could probably use more gear.

Spec'ed in the catolog as;

Advertised [email protected] all on a 110
........285/297.......241/247....545/.545

Purchase this cam with all the hardware from Comp Cams. It's a package that saves headaches and time. The head will have to be machined for there springs.

This combo should put a smile on everyones face.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Rumblefish, we were afraid the carb would be a little small so we'll put that on the list of must have's. the cam setup you talked about
sounds good, we'll just have to see if we can afford the head work. I'm comfortable doing the port matching and some minor blending on the short side of the intake port, but a full blown port job might be beyond my experience.
 
I hear ya on the heads. The 650, that is an AVS for sure?
 
EP87 said:
As far as the machine work the bottom end was done at Modralls in Vancouver, and they seamed to do a good job, but let me know who your using the prices modralls quoted us seamed awful steep. I'll give superior a call next week.
Thanks for the tip.
Click to expand...

No problem,as for the heads for $275.00 you get a bowl hog,4-5 angle grind,guides,positve seals installed(guide bosses cut) and spring height set-its a hell fo a deal!.If you want I would be happy to talk to you,just p.m. me if your interested and I will get you my number.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I hear ya on the heads. The 650, that is an AVS for sure?
Click to expand...

I'm glade you asked about the carb, I went and took a look at it, and its actually a 600 performer. I checked and summit has the 750 performers with electric choke for $299 which seams pretty reasonable.
 
Not a bad price at all. I like brand spanking new if I can get it that way. I search for AVS carbs and rebuild them alot. I like the HyBread Edelbrock did with the AVS/AFB, but have not yet had the cash to get one.
 
lead69 said:
No problem,as for the heads for $275.00 you get a bowl hog,4-5 angle grind,guides,positve seals installed(guide bosses cut) and spring height set-its a hell fo a deal!.If you want I would be happy to talk to you,just p.m. me if your interested and I will get you my number.
Click to expand...

PM sent. Richard
 
Twice I purchased a zero deck piston and got a zero deck height without machining the block. Lucky? Maybe.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Twice I purchased a zero deck piston and got a zero deck height without machining the block. Lucky? Maybe.
Click to expand...

The guy we took the block to said on one bank he only had to take a very small
amount "hardly enough to clean up the surface" to get the measurement we gave him from the crank center line, on the other bank he said it was something like .006. from the KB web page they said it would be something like .011. I guess they all differ a little, and would matter if the block had been machined before. Richard
 
For the carb hit a local swap meet or check ebay, the swap meet section on this site, and on moparts. I would not pay much more than around 75 to 100$ for any used carb that needs to be rebuilt. I bought a 625 carter afb in excellent condition off of ebay for $50, very nice carb. Needed a rebuild but it was as nice as any new carb in appearance as I have seen.
 
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