lower control arm clearance

[plugger340]

My Barracuda has a Mustang II suspension with disc brakes and the lower control arms rubs against both tires. The car has the LBP and I'd like to use 15 inch Ralley rims (4 1/2 inch set back) that I got off an E body but I have clearance issues even with rims with a 4 inch set back, though the tire just touches enough to make firm contact (the second picture shows the rim with 4 inch setback). The car has never been on the road since the suspension has changed so the steering hasn't been set up. Would spacers provide enought clearance? Any other suggestions?

 

[Jim Lusk]

There are a number of things that don't look good about that setup, including the ny-lock nut not going on the threads far enough to get into the ny-lock part. Whose setup is that?

Also, without a picture of the wheel installed it's hard to tell whats hitting where.

 

[805moparkid]

well first... if it aint broke dont fix it... but in the interest of hot rodding is the heim joint hitting the wheel or just that big spacer?

and as jim said ny-loks dont work unless threaded past them...

 

[fourspeed]

Why are the tie rods spaced so far from the steering arm, and why is the stud so long? The spacers on the bottom are not helping you.

Also, why does the nylock nut on top of the steering arm not have enough thread engagement? The stud should stick out by at least a couple threads.

 

[805moparkid]

after looking at it again are you using a bolt or some sort of all thread?

all you need to do is get a 5/8 grade 8 bolt for the spindle...

make sure its long enough to go thru the spindle, thru a small spacer (to align the rod end to the ground and to make clearnce for the heim) them slide the hiem on... another small spacer with the ny-lok...

 

[805moparkid]

here is a pic...

this is a 64 AWB falcon were building with a Straight axle

 

[plugger340]

Right now everything is a bit loose as that's the way it came from the painters. Right now only the spacer is hitting the rim. I'll take everything apart tomorrow to see what the hell is going on.

 

[plugger340]

Dropped the lower control arm and removed the threaded rod and heim assembly. The rod is tapered where it goes through the arm. It looks like the best option is to switch to a 5/8 bolt instead of using the tapered rod. Can I drill the arms tapered hole to 5/8 inch myself (if I'm careful) or do I have to take it to a machine shop? How thick should the washer be that separates the heim from the arm?

 

[Mr.Ed]

The thin nut goes on the top and the thickerer nut goes on the bottom. That'll fix your thread engagement problem. The spacers are there to adjust bump steer IIRC and since this is most likely a drag race only suspension it's designed to be used with skinnies up front.

 

[plugger340]

Hi Mr Ed. The previous owner was going to race it. I want to go away from the drag race setup and go to a street setup. Would replacing the tapered threaded rod with a shorter 5/8 grade 8 bolt work? I'd have to drill the tapered hole in the arm to 5/8 inch.
Was there any other pecularities with the drag set up as opposed to the street setup?

 

[Mr.Ed]

I'm just going from memory and not even on my own car. My friend got a similar set up for his Dart. His car sees no street use at all.

I personally would not drill out the taper. It's there to make a tight press fit to the steering arm so there is no play in the joint. The stud is in shear so all the side to side pressure from turning the steering would quickly wear a straight bolt or the hole in the steering arm, whichever is softer.

As far as a wheel spacer, you'd need a pretty thick one. Remember, the tire's going to flex when you turn so you would need to have extra clearance.

Sorry, but your best bet would be going back to the factory suspension for the street.

 

[plugger340]

Well since I don't plan to do wheelies and I have to be able to turn as I live on a close, I guess I'll have to change the suspension. I'll have to track down someone who has a bit of experience in such matters but for now I'll remove the heim assembly and substitute a shorter 1/2 inch bolt and reassemble things so I can at leasy push the car around the shop. Thanks for the help...