Lunati voodoo roller short snout

[65MagnumFish]

I’m in the middle of figuring out which cam I should run on my magnum 360. I want to keep stock heads, lifters, and rockers. I will go get the Hughes retainers and springs. Going eddy intake and carb. So is there a problem with a lunati short snout cam? Figured I’m going to run an electric fuel pump instead of mechanical, seemed like the short snout was up my alley?

 

[Bobzilla]

The short snout cams are specific to the Magnum engines just because the factory eliminated the mechanical fuel pump eccentric provisions and used that extra space for the Magnum timing cover and water pump setup.
If you know for sure you are running an electric fuel pump you should be fine with the short snout cam, just pay attention when the timing chain goes on to make sure the original cam bolt and washer are not bottomed out on the camshaft before tightening the cam gear. It should fit without issue. Use a drop of blue Loctite on the bolt threads during final assembly.

Are you planning to run the stock Magnum timing cover and serpentine belt drive?

 

[65MagnumFish]

The short snout cams are specific to the Magnum engines just because the factory eliminated the mechanical fuel pump eccentric provisions and used that extra space for the Magnum timing cover and water pump setup.
If you know for sure you are running an electric fuel pump you should be fine with the short snout cam, just pay attention when the timing chain goes on to make sure the original cam bolt and washer are not bottomed out on the camshaft before tightening the cam gear. It should fit without issue. Use a drop of blue Loctite on the bolt threads during final assembly.

Are you planning to run the stock Magnum timing cover and serpentine belt drive?

Yes I am. Thanks for the help. I was going to put on the mp timing chain set p5249267. Just praying once my heads go in their not cracked. Think the Hughes retainers and springs are the way to go? Been doing a lot of body work which I teach and now I am planning the mechanical part which is a learning experience. Thanks again. People on this site are really awesome about helping.

 

[Bobzilla]

I like the Hughes spring and retainer kit. It is an easy drop-in setup, perfect for stock heads. You would run into retainer-to-guide clearance issues if the lift is much over about .540 advertised lift, or duration is really long, before that spring kit was an issue.
Do you mean the heads are going in to a machine shop for freshening? The cracks everyone talks about are usually between the two valves. They don't leak coolant, so nobody ever knows they are cracked until they get removed for a rebuild.

 

[65MagnumFish]

I like the Hughes spring and retainer kit. It is an easy drop-in setup, perfect for stock heads. You would run into retainer-to-guide clearance issues if the lift is much over about .540 advertised lift, or duration is really long, before that spring kit was an issue.
Do you mean the heads are going in to a machine shop for freshening? The cracks everyone talks about are usually between the two valves. They don't leak coolant, so nobody ever knows they are cracked until they get removed for a rebuild.

I like the Hughes spring and retainer kit. It is an easy drop-in setup, perfect for stock heads. You would run into retainer-to-guide clearance issues if the lift is much over about .540 advertised lift, or duration is really long, before that spring kit was an issue.
Do you mean the heads are going in to a machine shop for freshening? The cracks everyone talks about are usually between the two valves. They don't leak coolant, so nobody ever knows they are cracked until they get removed for a rebuild.

I bought the engine with 70 thousand on it and never heard it run. Got it from a reputable yard but thought with the heads off I could inspect the cylinders and also have the heads checked over and refreshed. Think I should have them ported? Or does that open up a can of worms? Thanks for the advice.

 

[Bobzilla]

Even if those factory heads are not cracked, I personally would not spend a bunch of money paying someone to port them. The cost versus benefit depends on your goals, but by the time you get a valve job, spring and retainer kit, and pay to have someone port them, you could probably by new Edelbrock aluminum castings and be close to the same performance, but with room to grow with the Edelbrocks. Not trying to bash the factory heads, just my opinion on the cost. If 400hp or less is your goal, a good valve job on stock heads will get you there, if the seats and valves are not too far gone. Even with low mileage, the seats on those heads and the valve faces get pretty chewed up.

 

[replicaracer43]

When those factory magnum heads crack, its between the valve seats, and it goes THROUGH the seat, so it is a absolute waste of time and money to machine them. Lots of them run and dont leak coolant, but they are still garbage.

 

[65MagnumFish]

Even if those factory heads are not cracked, I personally would not spend a bunch of money paying someone to port them. The cost versus benefit depends on your goals, but by the time you get a valve job, spring and retainer kit, and pay to have someone port them, you could probably by new Edelbrock aluminum castings and be close to the same performance, but with room to grow with the Edelbrocks. Not trying to bash the factory heads, just my opinion on the cost. If 400hp or less is your goal, a good valve job on stock heads will get you there, if the seats and valves are not too far gone. Even with low mileage, the seats on those heads and the valve faces get pretty chewed up.

Thanks for the info then I will not port. I think a valve job and new Hughes hardware is where I will be headed. I was aiming for 400 hp probably like everyone else. Think I will get there with dougs headers, eddy intake, Holley carb, Lunati cam, stock pistons, and valve train? Thanks for the advice it will save me money on the heads and I did not realize I could get good power from the heads as is.