M1 Sb intake. Best for small blocks?

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Two things stand out to me the 323s and what I am assuming is a stock converter if you went to a 355 rear end ratio and a 3,000 stall converter you would not believe the difference out of the hole. The hotter camshaft you have combined with a high-rise manifold are actually not really benefiting you with that setup it doesn't start to come into play till around 4500 from there on up is where it will pay dividends tire size also comes into play
 
Imo, the best intake for this set-up would be a messaged Edelbrock Performer. It has the correct port size, they are cheap, and plentiful. Lightweight aluminum, excellent runner.
Final answer. :)
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
Two things stand out to me the 323s and what I am assuming is a stock converter if you went to a 355 rear end ratio and a 3,000 stall converter you would not believe the difference out of the hole. The hotter camshaft you have combined with a high-rise manifold are actually not really benefiting you with that setup it doesn't start to come into play till around 4500 from there on up is where it will pay dividends tire size also comes into play
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I disagree on that much converter and your listed 4500 rpm. I’ve run a slightly bigger cam (218@050) and the low end was OK. Not great. A stock converter can be used. A factory high stall (2500) would be better. The issue is where he will cruise at. I would not want it stalling. A loss of power and an overheating transmission is at the boarder line, IMO....
 
rumblefish360 said:
I disagree on that much converter and your listed 4500 rpm. I’ve run a slightly bigger cam (218@050) and the low end was OK. Not great. A stock converter can be used. A factory high stall (2500) would be better. The issue is where he will cruise at. I would not want it stalling. A loss of power and an overheating transmission is at the boarder line, IMO....
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yes I disagree right back at you lol it's still going to be mushy on the bottom end. Poop or get off the pot if you're going to run that stick those gears and stock converter are just okay.
 
OP, what exactly are we using this car rod and what is it you expect to achieve? Just double checking.
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
Two things stand out to me the 323s and what I am assuming is a stock converter if you went to a 355 rear end ratio and a 3,000 stall converter you would not believe the difference out of the hole. The hotter camshaft you have combined with a high-rise manifold are actually not really benefiting you with that setup it doesn't start to come into play till around 4500 from there on up is where it will pay dividends tire size also comes into play
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Yep, stock converter in a 727. I want to go to 3.55 gears, but never thought about the converter.....
 
swingingdart said:
How do I limit the advance?
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An FBO limiter plate found at 4secondsflat.com.
You can even have them set up your distributor.
Tell Don I said hello.

A 3K converter really isn’t a bad idea, but from where I stand, not with that cam. Something along the lines of a 226 or 230 @050 duration is what I’d use with a 3K converter & 3.55’s on 26-ish inch tires.
That’ll rock!
 
rumblefish360 said:
OP, what exactly are we using this car rod and what is it you expect to achieve? Just double checking.
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Sorry, I just wanted more off the line, and a little better down shifting "pin you in the seat" experience. I know 318 limits some of that, but I'm trying to see what I can squeeze out of it.
I actually havent done any burnouts yet, afraid of breaking something. (Not sure why, 318 wont hurt an 8.75/727 combo.:lol:
 
swingingdart said:
Sorry, I just wanted more off the line, and a little better down shifting "pin you in the seat" experience. I know 318 limits some of that, but I'm trying to see what I can squeeze out of it.
I actually havent done any burnouts yet, afraid of breaking something. (Not sure why, 318 wont hurt an 8.75/727 combo.:lol:
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LOL... I just did a video on setting initial timing, another on total timing, and another doing a year end burnout with my 318 truck ...
:lol:
 
swingingdart said:
Also, do you guys know the significance of cutting down the divider in the middle?
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If you look in the Direct Connection Engine book they recommend doing this to an LD340, but these are tests and recommendations for drag racing, period. If you remove the center divider you ruin the effect of the dual plane design that gives you better low end response in a street car
 
Make sure that you use a manifold with the smaller 273/318 ports unless you are going to gasket match the manifold to the ports (lot of work for a 318 IMHO). Best small port manifold for a 318 streets car? Edelbrock LD-4B. Cheapest good manifold? a used Edelbrock Performer
 
str12-340 said:
Make sure that you use a manifold with the smaller 273/318 ports unless you are going to gasket match the manifold to the ports (lot of work for a 318 IMHO). Best small port manifold for a 318 streets car? Edelbrock LD-4B. Cheapest good manifold? a used Edelbrock Performer
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LD-48 Looks pretty cool! But yeah, they have a high price tag. Be nice to happen upon a deal for one of those! So sounds like I'm better off with the LD48 or the performer. And I should just pass on the M1 dual plane intake for this engine. I appreciate all the help guys! Going to be looking at my timing, stall converter and gears next. Seems like a project is never done! ( Course that's what makes it fun!!):thumbsup:
 
swingingdart said:
LD-48 Looks pretty cool! But yeah, they have a high price tag. Be nice to happen upon a deal for one of those! So sounds like I'm better off with the LD48 or the performer. And I should just pass on the M1 dual plane intake for this engine. I appreciate all the help guys! Going to be looking at my timing, stall converter and gears next. Seems like a project is never done! ( Course that's what makes it fun!!):thumbsup:
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Many don't like the sounds of this, but to be perfectly honest, on any mild small block, the factory cast intake is so hard to beat. I did intake test on several small blocks, including the 318 in my Duster. The absolute best ET slip on my 318 Duster was given by a factory cast intake of the 3 intakes tried (the dual quad intake hasn't been down the track yet). Also, on my 360 Duster (at the time, basically stock 360), I went from the Action Plus to the Eddy RPM and didn't even get a full tenth.
 
318willrun said:
Many don't like the sounds of this, but to be perfectly honest, on any mild small block, the factory cast intake is so hard to beat. I did intake test on several small blocks, including the 318 in my Duster. The absolute best ET slip on my 318 Duster was given by a factory cast intake of the 3 intakes tried (the dual quad intake hasn't been down the track yet). Also, on my 360 Duster (at the time, basically stock 360), I went from the Action Plus to the Eddy RPM and didn't even get a full tenth.
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JK, I just love this horse!:lol:
 
swingingdart said:
LD-48 Looks pretty cool! But yeah, they have a high price tag. Be nice to happen upon a deal for one of those! So sounds like I'm better off with the LD48 or the performer. And I should just pass on the M1 dual plane intake for this engine. I appreciate all the help guys! Going to be looking at my timing, stall converter and gears next. Seems like a project is never done! ( Course that's what makes it fun!!):thumbsup:
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Oh I don't know I've only been working on mine for 43 years and I'm over halfway done! But actually that's one great thing about this hobby unless you just want to stick it in the garage and take pictures of it period ically there's always something more to do.
 
318willrun said:
Many don't like the sounds of this, but to be perfectly honest, on any mild small block, the factory cast intake is so hard to beat. I did intake test on several small blocks, including the 318 in my Duster. The absolute best ET slip on my 318 Duster was given by a factory cast intake of the 3 intakes tried (the dual quad intake hasn't been down the track yet). Also, on my 360 Duster (at the time, basically stock 360), I went from the Action Plus to the Eddy RPM and didn't even get a full tenth.
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Gotta agree out loud with this.
On a low performance engine, the difference is super low. The factory 4bbl has done very well for me as well in the past.
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
Whoop there it is, black and white.
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But they didn’t dyno the Performer.

there’s $100-$200 difference between hose two used. That money could be put for other HP gains or quality parts to grow with.
 
autoxcuda said:
But they didn’t dyno the Performer.

there’s $100-$200 difference between hose two used. That money could be put for other HP gains or quality parts to grow with.
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Oh I agree totally there's no way I would pay $100 more for an m1 over a performer, I was just pointing out that that's what can be expected from his for mentioned Cam and equivalent high-rise
 
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