Dont take this wrong, but no way will you have a running engine for $5000. Even using ebag parts sourcing and the least expensive EFIs. If you meant $5K into a long block, you're much closer. I wouldnt use a cast crank. So the $300 4" arm deal is out. Forged pistons, good rods, and forged crank, plus machine work, will cost close to $3800 if it's all done the right way. That means a passed sonic test, studded mains, I'd upgrade the caps to 2bolt Programs, align bore/hone, bore/hone cylinders, square deck block, modify the oil system, deburr, clearance, and clean. Internal balancing only. For heads, you'll need a little attention to things like the exh valve material and valve springs (turbo is not a blower....), so add about $2200 for a set of decent aluminums gone thru and upgraded. I would push for head studs. They can be a PITA, but you only have 10 head fasteners. Sothe best is what you need. I like the Cometic idea, but many shops dont have the equipment to get the Ra factor to what they need. 50Ra is not good enough. It's marginal at best, so aim for 30 or finer. The cam should be something spec'd for a turbo. They are unique and you should talk to a few people who do a lot of turbo work to get an idea of what might work for your combo. In any case, I'd think by the time you have a long block minus the intake, using quality stuff that will hold up on the street at the levels you'll reach (400hp is an easy natrually aspirated goal...any boost will push you beyond 500 easy) $5K just gets spent too fast The cheaper way would be a naturally aspirated 408/416 that would equal and exceed the 400rwhp goal, and be about $1300 cheaper, and you wouldnt need the EFI on it. But it would sacrifice soem milage due the carb itself.
