mag thermostat housing?

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sireland67

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It took me along time to find a duel plane intake for a 360 mag I am d-tuning.
I ended up finding a NOS one from 03 at a Chrysler dealer.
Anyways, the thermostat housing is way smaller than any LA I am used to.
I assume I need to buy one for a mag, it looks to be about 2.88" between the bolt holes.
 
Here are a few pics of what I am working with.

N24Jod.jpg


Q4BWfH.jpg
 
Jegs has one for $40, so does Mancini $45. I found one on ebay for a 89 5.2 truck. There a a big ugly cast iron housing or a black stamped steel (what I chose). Then another option is the super tall magnum housing. Heard a chevy housing could work also.
 
Here is the engine that is being d-tuned for truck pulling use, max rpm 4500, needs to start at 0 degrees outside.
It has been sitting for a while, the date stamp is correct, but built stout and broke in.

1000745f.jpg
 
Jegs has one for $40, so does Mancini $45. I found one on ebay for a 89 5.2 truck. There a a big ugly cast iron housing or a black stamped steel (what I chose). Then another option is the super tall magnum housing. Heard a chevy housing could work also.

Ugly is fine, going in an ugly pickup.

Is the super tall mag housing able to be tapped for a 3/8 npt for an aftermarket gauge?
I will look into the chevy housing, with a moroso spacer, actually have one on the 318 now to hook a gauge up.

Here is the pos, but reliable as a hammer.

1001050q.jpg
 
Pretty sure you can use a pre-Mag thermostat housing. Sometime after ’78? (not sure when) they changed the housing and only changed the construction when they released the Magnum motors. So technically an LA housing would work, just needs to be the later one.

I think I used this one on my intake.

Here it is on my motor:



What are you planning to do with the single plane? Too bad it isn’t drilled for the injectors.
 
Thanks for posting the picture and the link.
Good looking engine.
For the price I will buy housing you mentioned, it is defiantly cheap enough.

And your picture also answered another question I thought of, will the factory style bypass hose work, looks like it does.

I am going to keep the single plane, just in case.
 
Try google search for Cooling depot 85181. Thts the part # for the cast aluminum tall one that fits. Its probably under $15 your cost and will work well on a truck due to taller rad. If you cant find one, find me and I can help.
 
Try google search for Cooling depot 85181. Thts the part # for the cast aluminum tall one that fits. Its probably under $15 your cost and will work well on a truck due to taller rad. If you cant find one, find me and I can help.

Thanks for the tip, does it have a 3/8 NPT thread for a gauge?
I did a google search and did not find it for some reason.

Edit, I found it 8.99
I can get aluminum bungs from McMaster Carr and attempt to tig it, depending on how good the casting is.
 
Only problem doing that is that it will only give you engine temp when the t stat is open. Manifold must have a spot for sender, right?
 
Very true
Manifold only has a (qty 2) 1/8 NPT spot for an electric gauges.
The guy that designed these manifold must not have been a car guy to include an extra 3/8 npt hole.
The factory gauge does still work, I just like the accuracy of aftermarket analog mechanical gauges, this engine is going to be used for towing, so redundancy is nice, like in aircraft's.
 
easy fix would be to use one of the in line adapters, a 1 1/2 " tube with 3/8npt bung welded in but again, no temp till stat opens.
 
True, I seen them at Summit pretty reasonable.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-72065

Initial plan was to use the Moroso adapter that is already on the truck on the LD4B intake, which with the smaller thermostat housing will not work, and Moroso does not sell the smaller one that I can find.

I could drill and tap the intake like I did on my LD-340 that is in my duster.

Thinking clear out of the box, drill and tap the timing cover for a fitting or a weld in bung? Might restrict flow to the heads too much.

wA5cox.jpg


d6NOO4.jpg


WIaLgs.jpg
 
Very true
Manifold only has a (qty 2) 1/8 NPT spot for an electric gauges.
The guy that designed these manifold must not have been a car guy to include an extra 3/8 npt hole.
The factory gauge does still work, I just like the accuracy of aftermarket analog mechanical gauges, this engine is going to be used for towing, so redundancy is nice, like in aircraft's.

I'm still unfamiliar with gauge connections...would this gauge work? I've got the same manifold going in mine.

http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/2-1-16-water-temp-250fw-sender/
 
Most electic gauges use a 1/8 npt thread.
Mechanical ones use 3/8 not.
 
How's the little air ratchet workin?
 
It is still working fine.
Thanks again
 
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