Magnum 360 mods

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WacDad Miller

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Building a reliable driver with stock crank and rods. What mods to the oiling system would be the most benificial besides the oil pump blue printing, which I have done. Open up passages, install restrictors somewhere, what? Magnum 360 with EQ heads.
 
Building a reliable driver with stock crank and rods. What mods to the oiling system would be the most benificial besides the oil pump blue printing, which I have done. Open up passages, install restrictors somewhere, what? Magnum 360 with EQ heads.
So non of the above.

A basic rebuild is all you’ll need to do.

No need to do any more oiling mods. The engine doesn’t need it.
The heads should just be well prepped and looked at.
For more power from the heads, nothing more than a good valve job is needed. No porting. The heads are capable as cast to support over 400hp easy.

I equipped my stock 5.9 with only a 750 AFB, RPM, Hooker Super Comp headers at 1-3/4 into a 2-1/2 dual exhaust.
This is a 300hp engine all day long and has been excellent to me for a long time now.

(727/3.55-27 inch tire - ‘79 B body.)
 
Beware the magnum eq heads. I see you're in Illinois too. On an extremely rare trip into Chicago (because I can't stand being there, any of Chicago gives me the creeps). I picked up a pair of "bolt on" EQs right directly from EQs loading dock for my wife's 360 in her Durango, with less than 3 hours of run time on a fresh engine I had a valve stick and kiss the piston. Fresh rebuild on the short block, bored 30-over and all. I ended up taking them off and then to a machine shop and had to pay for a valve job to make them usable. Pretty pathetic for brand spanking new parts sold as "ready to run out of the box" or "bolt on and go".
I ended up buying a used engine off of CL and put that in with those EQs AFTER I got to pay again... Initially to buy the heads then had to pay to have them redone. Totally unacceptable to me. I haven't recommended anyone to get EQ heads since. I can't
 
I generally don’t modify anything in the magnum oiling. Blueprinting the pump is a good idea, measure the lifters and lifter bores for excessive wear, and set the bearing clearance where you want it (not just slapping bearings in the rods and mains) will serve you to well above the hp and rpm of a “driver”. Last thing is make sure the cam bearings are good, you can loose a lot of oil around a torn up cam bearing and magnums tend to tear them up.
 
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I've heard that about magnums. Are they worse about Cam bearings than LAs?
 
Beware the magnum eq heads. I see you're in Illinois too. On an extremely rare trip into Chicago (because I can't stand being there, any of Chicago gives me the creeps). I picked up a pair of "bolt on" EQs right directly from EQs loading dock for my wife's 360 in her Durango, with less than 3 hours of run time on a fresh engine I had a valve stickwill and kiss the piston. Fresh rebuild on the short block, bored 30-over and all. I ended up taking them off and then to a machine shop and had to pay for a valve job to make them usable. Pretty pathetic for brand spanking new parts sold as "ready to run out of the box" or "bolt on and go".
I ended up buying a used engine off of CL and put that in with those EQs AFTER I got to pay again... Initially to buy the heads then had to pay to have them redone. Totally unacceptable to me. I haven't recommended anyone to get EQ heads since. I can't
That is definately good advice that I will consider. However, my heads came from P.I.E out in Delaware. They have been ported and polished, on both sides, installed 2.02” stainless valves also. They flow very very well.
 
Ok then considering that Im guessing they have been gone thru since manufactured. They didn't come with 2.02s when I bought them, so I'm guessing "somebody" has worked them since made ... Mine came straight from EQ themselves.
 
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