Magnum crank and 4 speed

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GREEN DART 5

GREEN DART 5

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I want to look for a 5.9 and use my A833, but all I can find is engines attached to automatics. Do I need to look for a 5.9 mated to a manual transmission, for a drilled crank? Do the automatics have a drilled crank to accept my 4 speed input shaft? I’m not to concerned with the correct bore for a pilot bushing, I can use the bearing. I just want to make sure the input shaft of the transmission will fit in the crank. I will not be using the 5.9 fuel injection. Thanks FABO!!!!
 
The 5.9 I got from a 2001 Durango was an auto. The crank on it looked like it had been drilled but did not have the depth or width to put the correct size bushing in. When I took the block in to have it bored over and align honed, I also took the crank and had them drill it out. The shop said they couldn't ensure a perfect fit for the bushing while keeping it balanced like the factory did. They just made it deep and wide enough that the transmission shaft wouldn't touch and I could use the needle bearing that goes where the torque converter would have sat.

Someone on here had put up some images with their measurements and I used that to give the machine shop and it worked great.

CrankDepthDiam.jpg
depth.jpg
 
There is a "backyard way" to do this which will work just fine, the purists will puke

My 5.9 gas 3/4 ton I just sold WAS NOT DRILLED AT ALL for a stick. The crank just had a "dimple." I was considering a 5 speed, here's what you can do

"Rig" the thing so you can drill it. This might mean borrowing / renting a mag base drill, or building a fixture to hold your drill motor, or pulling the block and rigging it into a floor drill press/ mill/ whatever.

Now drill the pilot hole as an purposly oversized "clearance" cavity. It is not machined, it is an oversize rough hole.

Then simply use the newer Jeep/ Magnum pilot bearing which fits the torque converter hole, either needle bearing or bushed.

LOL. Was gonna post this photo and the server crashed. Seems like I read that one or both these part numbers are obsolete, so look around

jeeppilot.jpg
 
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Thanks for the info. I’m picking up a 1995 Ram 1500 on Saturday. It has a 5.9 bolted up to an automatic. I’ll definitely try the mag. drill if the crank is not drilled.
 
This may not help but I just got a 5.2L from a 95 ram 1500 auto trans and the crank is drilled. And will be using the 53009180 bearing that’s pictured above.
 
GREEN DART 5 said:
Thanks for the info. I’m picking up a 1995 Ram 1500 on Saturday. It has a 5.9 bolted up to an automatic. I’ll definitely try the mag. drill if the crank is not drilled.
Click to expand...

You're begging for trouble. If it's not rough drilled (most are), Bobbitt the tip of the input shaft off with a wizzer wheel and move on with your life. Rough drilling a crank is begging for more trouble than it's worth.

Another way to phrase it: Which is easier and cheaper to mod? Modify that.
 
jos51700 said:
You're begging for trouble. If it's not rough drilled (most are), Bobbitt the tip of the input shaft off with a wizzer wheel and move on with your life. Rough drilling a crank is begging for more trouble than it's worth.

Another way to phrase it: Which is easier and cheaper to mod? Modify that.
Click to expand...
I’ve been thinking that if I drill the crank, it will through the balance off.
 
GREEN DART 5 said:
I’ve been thinking that if I drill the crank, it will through the balance off.
Click to expand...
That close to the center, it's unlikely, but it can create stress risers, broken drill bits, and other assorted headaches. And some say there is an oil galley back there but I can't vouch for that.

Besides the Bobbit and resultant tip toss requires virtually no precision.
 
for the cranks that aren't drilled, you cut one inch from the input shaft of the transmission and then use the needle bearing Mopar performance pilot bearing that presses into the torque converter register. The input shaft seats in the bearing and the register but still seats in a regular pilot bearing... because non drilled have a slight drill depth to them from the piloting when they machined the register...just not the full depth of a drilled version. Many folks did this including myself
 
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