Magnum exhaust manifolds ball-flange to LA pipes?

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67Charger

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Is the exhaust manifold ball/socket compatible with LA headpipes?

I am currently using a Durango Y-pipe, but it hangs REALLY low. Rather than refab the lower pipe, I'm thinking of either making an entirely new Y or going duals. Either way, can I use replacement LA style ball sockets with the Magnum manifolds?
 
I may have a scrap LA head pipe and mag manifold I'll "try fit" them. I can't imagine they are that precision. The 5.9 ones are larger, or at least a pair I have
 
There are 2 sizes of Magnum manifolds. If you have the larger ones (2 1/8" outlet) I sell the bell flared connection that goes against the manifold. If you have the smaller outlet you should be able to get the local muffler shop to form the flared fitting but it probably won't be bell flared like the factory ones.


The one on the right is the bell flared large hole magnum connector.

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Treblig
 
I'll have to look when I get home. The individual pipes leading to the Y are only about 1.5" - 1.75", but they are most definitely like the bell you show on the right.
 
Treblig said:
There are 2 sizes of Magnum manifolds. If you have the larger ones (2 1/8" outlet) I sell the bell flared connection that goes against the manifold. If you have the smaller outlet you should be able to get the local muffler shop to form the flared fitting but it probably won't be bell flared like the factory ones.


The one on the right is the bell flared large hole magnum connector.

View attachment 1715054491


Treblig
Click to expand...
Treblig, what do you get for a pair of those bell flared 2 1/8 ? Is this something my local muff shop should have also ?
 
rdunnam said:
Treblig, what do you get for a pair of those bell flared 2 1/8 ? Is this something my local muff shop should have also ?
Click to expand...


The bell flare is something that was only made by the factory (they made the dies). Although you might be able to buy some properly bell flared pipes from an aftermarket "on line" company like Summit (but I'm not sure and they won't be cheap). I have 2 sections of properly "bell" flared down pipe left over from I used to make them. No muffler shop has the correct dies so I would get a regular piece of 2 1/4" pipe and get a large straight flare made at the muffler shop then bring them home and use a 360 magnum manifold (large hole) to hammer (peen) a bell into the flat flare so that the flare would match the bell of the manifold. I'm a machinist so I'm pretty good at that kind of stuff. I would sell the flared pipe with the flange adapter for $30 plus shipping. At the moment I don't have any flange adapters but I could get more. I will sell the 2 remaining sections of magnum bell flared pipe for $21 each plus shipping.
The only reason I started making the bell and 340 (see pic) flat flared pipe is that they are hard to find for a decent price, if you can find them at all. The correct flange adapters are also hard to find for a decent price.
I've stopped selling 340 and 360 magnum manifolds so I also stopped making the flared pipe. I have a few pieces of bell flared pipe (as seen in pic) left over. I also have some "super tight" mandrel bent 2 1/2" pipe that I used to use to make the driver's side 340 down pipe as seen below:

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I made this stuff because you can't buy it anywhere....................

Treblig
 
Treblig said:
The bell flare is something that was only made by the factory (they made the dies). Although you might be able to buy some properly bell flared pipes from an aftermarket "on line" company like Summit (but I'm not sure and they won't be cheap). I have 2 sections of properly "bell" flared down pipe left over from I used to make them. No muffler shop has the correct dies so I would get a regular piece of 2 1/4" pipe and get a large straight flare made at the muffler shop then bring them home and use a 360 magnum manifold (large hole) to hammer (peen) a bell into the flat flare so that the flare would match the bell of the manifold. I'm a machinist so I'm pretty good at that kind of stuff. I would sell the flared pipe with the flange adapter for $30 plus shipping. At the moment I don't have any flange adapters but I could get more. I will sell the 2 remaining sections of magnum bell flared pipe for $21 each plus shipping.
The only reason I started making the bell and 340 (see pic) flat flared pipe is that they are hard to find for a decent price, if you can find them at all. The correct flange adapters are also hard to find for a decent price.
I've stopped selling 340 and 360 magnum manifolds so I also stopped making the flared pipe. I have a few pieces of bell flared pipe (as seen in pic) left over. I also have some "super tight" mandrel bent 2 1/2" pipe that I used to use to make the driver's side 340 down pipe as seen below:

View attachment 1715054816 View attachment 1715054817 View attachment 1715054818 View attachment 1715054819 View attachment 1715054820 View attachment 1715054821

I made this stuff because you can't buy it anywhere....................

Treblig
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, I may try the peen method, from flat to bell against the manifold end, and go easy and little at a time, right, cast iron, right? If I can't come up with what I need, I'll get back, may be money ahead getting those from you. Thanks.
 
rdunnam said:
Thanks for the info, I may try the peen method, from flat to bell against the manifold end, and go easy and little at a time, right, cast iron, right? If I can't come up with what I need, I'll get back, may be money ahead getting those from you. Thanks.
Click to expand...


But can beat on it pretty hard against the magnum manifold (it's extremely stout). Just be sure to keep rotating the pipe and keeping it perfectly aligned so that the bell fits perfectly against the manifold or you'll get a leak. The correct flange adapter also helps get a good seal. I've removed many of the factory bell flared pipes at the scrap yard and I can tell you that the pipe becomes physically attached to the manifold (perfect fit) after a period of time to the point that you have smack real hard with a big hammer to get it to come loose even after you've removed the flange adapter. Good Luck and let me know if you need one of the last few that I have. Remember....you'll have to buy a piece of pipe then pay to get it flat flared.
I always mount the manifold in a big vice to get a good solid surface to hammer against.

Treblig
 
Treblig said:
But can beat on it pretty hard against the magnum manifold (it's extremely stout). Just be sure to keep rotating the pipe and keeping it perfectly aligned so that the bell fits perfectly against the manifold or you'll get a leak. The correct flange adapter also helps get a good seal. I've removed many of the factory bell flared pipes at the scrap yard and I can tell you that the pipe becomes physically attached to the manifold (perfect fit) after a period of time to the point that you have smack real hard with a big hammer to get it to come loose even after you've removed the flange adapter. Good Luck and let me know if you need one of the last few that I have. Remember....you'll have to buy a piece of pipe then pay to get it flat flared.
I always mount the manifold in a big vice to get a good solid surface to hammer against.
My idea is to break in my engine, tune and set it with manifolds then swap to a nice set of ceramic coated headers understanding that the max tune may change slightly, but trying to prevent ruining headers with a lean engine etc that I've read about. This will be a carbed 5.9 mostly stock with street performance cam and EQ heads. So the cost of your parts $60 plus shipping = at least $80, I'm weighing out could this be put toward the cost of the headers and take a chance of ruining the coating on a set of $550 headers, again your parts would prob be money ahead as they say. Any experience on ceramic headers?
Treblig
Click to expand...
 
I've run one set of "Jet Hot" ceramic coated headers. The coating didn't last long because of the environment I live in (very hot and humid year round). But you do have a point when it comes to "BREAK IN". In your case, if you're not going to run the car in the streets very long before you swap to headers i would just get a good angle flair (non-bell) on the pipes. It should seal OK for break in. The muffler shops run a regular angle flair on the magnum type manifolds and they do seal for the most part. I don't like the non-bell flair because I've seen how well the "bell" flair seals.
In your case, you're not looking for a long term solution using the cast iron manifolds so it's not so important that you get a great "long lasting" seal.

Treblig
 
Treblig said:
I've run one set of "Jet Hot" ceramic coated headers. The coating didn't last long because of the environment I live in (very hot and humid year round). But you do have a point when it comes to "BREAK IN". In your case, if you're not going to run the car in the streets very long before you swap to headers i would just get a good angle flair (non-bell) on the pipes. It should seal OK for break in. The muffler shops run a regular angle flair on the magnum type manifolds and they do seal for the most part. I don't like the non-bell flair because I've seen how well the "bell" flair seals.
In your case, you're not looking for a long term solution using the cast iron manifolds so it's not so important that you get a great "long lasting" seal.

Treblig
Click to expand...
That's a great point Treblig, thank you.
 
hi Treblig. came across some posts of yours regarding the 92 dakota manifolds. I have set on my 2000 dakota, but have been in search of a proper flange.

in this thread you have a picture of a ball flange that, if i understand correctly, you sell along with manifolds that you modify for "A" bodies.

How much would you charge me just for those pipes/flange? I have the 2 1/8 output from the manifolds. And do you happen ti have then in stainless steel?

Thank you

p.s. I cannot PM you because I am a new member and it is not allowing me. Thanks
 
Arthur Khachatryan said:
hi Treblig. came across some posts of yours regarding the 92 dakota manifolds. I have set on my 2000 dakota, but have been in search of a proper flange.

in this thread you have a picture of a ball flange that, if i understand correctly, you sell along with manifolds that you modify for "A" bodies.

How much would you charge me just for those pipes/flange? I have the 2 1/8 output from the manifolds. And do you happen ti have then in stainless steel?

Thank you

p.s. I cannot PM you because I am a new member and it is not allowing me. Thanks
Click to expand...
Sorry but I stopped making and selling the manifold down pipes years ago. It took too long and I never really made any money on them. The muffler shop (most anyway) can flare the pipes. But they can only make flat flares. After the muffler shop flared the pipes I took them home and hammered them against the ball flange until I got a perfect fit. I never could find a muffler shop that can make a flare for a ball flange. FYI - Take one manifold with you so the muffler shop can test fit the flared pipe to the manifold, this way you'll get a better fit.
 
Thank you - what about the flange with the taper, were you machining yours to have thr taper, or is there a brand out there that has tapered?
 
Arthur Khachatryan said:
Thank you - what about the flange with the taper, were you machining yours to have thr taper, or is there a brand out there that has tapered?
Click to expand...
Not sure what taper you referring to?? Do you have pics of what you're talking about. I'll help all I can.
 
67Dart273 said:
I may have a scrap LA head pipe and mag manifold I'll "try fit" them. I can't imagine they are that precision. The 5.9 ones are larger, or at least a pair I have
Click to expand...
If the outlet is 2 1/8 on the magnum manifold it is a RT 360 magnum one
Std were 1 7/8
 
92/93 magnum driver's manifold paired with a 96/97/98 passenger Jeep Grand Cherokee manifold.:

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