Magnum fi swap with 833 4 speed

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Sublime12

'70 383 Swinger
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Dec 15, 2010
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I have a 70 swinger. Currently 383/4 speed. I have a 98 Dakota with a 408 stroker that I'm going to return to stock 360 using a Durango donor vehicle. I want to use the 408 in the dart with the wiring harness from the Durango. I've done some research and I see intalling the crank position sensor is difficult with the 4 speed. Does anyone have experience with this. This is the 4th motor I've put in the Dakota and I built the 408 myself so I have a lot of experience with the magnum. Any other tips would be appreciated
 
From what I have gathered is one if the main problems is the flywheel. Magnum truck flywheel must be used to pick up for crank sensor, but it's only 143 tooth. The cars are 130 and it won't fit in the bell housing. Not sure if a scattersheild or something could work. I ended up using a Dakota 5 speed so I didn't research it much further.
 
Thanks for the reply I saw a thread where someone machined the harmonic balancer and installed a crank position sensor on the front.
 
Sublime, I am knee deep in this conversion as well. My beef is not wanting to modify hard parts, ie. Flywheel or balancer. Just two things I have found so far. 1st there is a bell from early like 1st gen Dakotas that has the proper sized center register. Also from the pics it appears to have a very similar trans mounting face and bolt spread as an 833od. I cannot say for sure as the one I bought hasn't arrived yet. This is also a hydraulic activated bell with a bell mounted slave cylinder. Good option for header clearance. After this bell arrives and I check it out, I will send you a yes or nay, if good I will send you a part number as well. The prior owner to the guy I bought it from claims he used it behind a 340, with an 833od, and it was original to the truck. As I said I will keep you posted. Scenario 2. A pre magnum full size truck bell. Again it has the proper sized center register, but everything else goes to hell from there. On Moparts I found some guys that mod'ed those bells to work. Search my screen name on Moparts and you will have all the info I have regarding that swap. Working from those ideas, I have discovered an idea in lieu of a pilot bushing, sold by Brewers. It is a roller bearing that fits in the big recess of the crank. Allowing you to use a trans that may have had the input shaft cut. I think in combination with that bearing and a plate between the bell and trans that option could be made to work. That is my plan C. Plan B will be re drilling the mounting face of the bell I have in transit. Damned if I didn't have to buy two bells over and above the stick one I already had, but I am determined to get the job done. :burnout:
 
The latest Mopar action (June 2015)has a front mounted sensor that may be adaptable for this application. There is some resource information in the text. It involves a big block application but could be adapted for a small block. Hope this helps more discussion for manual trans applications.
 
Here is a link that might have some helpful info, either to help you identify what bellhousing you have headed your way, or to find the one you need.

Never did it myself, so I can't vouch for the information.
 
Some additional info. Looks like it has to be a passenger side slave cylinder bellhousing, meaning 89-91 (or so) D100/D150 only. Dakota is different. Might be that the D100/D150 bell seems to have a much closer bolt pattern, unlike most that I have seen that don't have anything close. P/N is 4471829.

Here is a link to one on ebay with some pictures.
 
FWIW: I remember from my time on Dakota-Durango that modern driveline? is or was making a 130 tooth flywheel with the proper sensor windows. Assuming I remember that right it could be just what you need. At the time it wasn't listed online, you had to call.
 
adiffrentcity said:
FWIW: I remember from my time on Dakota-Durango that modern driveline? is or was making a 130 tooth flywheel with the proper sensor windows. Assuming I remember that right it could be just what you need. At the time it wasn't listed online, you had to call.
Click to expand...

True.

Here is a link on Dakotart.com. All he said it was $1200 for the bell, clutch and flywheel. No idea how much the flywheel would cost by iteslef.

Here is a thread where fzmax said he got Modern Driveline to cut him one for $450.
 
I called and spoke to Bruce at Modern Driveline yesterday, they do have the correct130 tooth flywheel with the crank sensor notches machined into it. You will have to adjust the placement depth of the crank sensor. It will set you back $480, it is not on the website, call and ask. A small price to pay to not cut up anything on the car and to use all of your stock 833 components. Will be ordering mine end of this month.
 
STOP THE PRESSES!!!!! Ok so I called Modern Driveline, they have the flywheel. That was the good news, the bad news... Well let me just stop there, I was put in a position where I discovered American Powertrain also makes the flywheel. It is over a $100, cheaper. They also offer a complete hydraulic throw out bearing kit. All said and done, I cancelled my order with the other guys, and placed my order with Mopar specific extra parts with American Drivetrain and spent less money overall and am not going to be making GM parts fit. I didn't find the flywheel on either companies websites, you have to call. Stay tuned I will check in next week with my parts and be ready to answer any questions.
 
I called American Powertrain, too. You can pick aluminum or Steel, and they'll lighten the steel. The flywheels are hiding on their website now. Part Number FWCH-10004CS (CS for Crank Sensor) gets you a steel wheel. $349, or $379 lightened.

And they admitted; it's poorly advertised.
 
Update; as of right now, no aluminum flywheel can be used with ckp, since the aluminum can't trigger the hall effect sensor. I'll be looking around to see if anyone wants to add the tone ring to an aluminum flywheel.
 
jos51700 said:
Update; as of right now, no aluminum flywheel can be used with ckp, since the aluminum can't trigger the hall effect sensor. I'll be looking around to see if anyone wants to add the tone ring to an aluminum flywheel.
Click to expand...

Just a thought, but don't aluminum flywheels still use a steel ring with the teeth on for the ring gear?
 
340duster said:
Just a thought, but don't aluminum flywheels still use a steel ring with the teeth on for the ring gear?
Click to expand...

They do, and I seem to have found a unicorn flywheel that has a removable steel ring for the CKP. This has lead to a call from a nice man on the Dakota forums that sell Dak swap kits, and the nice man at Fidanza was interested in making CKP-compatible aluminum flywheels as well, using a trigger ring (Can't use the starter ring gear, as you need to 8 slots, not 129 slots)

Please PM me if you are interested in a Magnum EFI swap conversion flywheel. This wheel should be good to go with all A-833, 5/6 speed, and other MT swaps. The more interested parties that we get, the easier it'll be to bring this to market.
Thank you!
John
 
Finally received my flywheel. Magnum balanced, 130 tooth, with the notches for the injection. $349, from American Powertrain.
 

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I guess I don't understand.....why not just use a different OEM / aftermarket front mounted trigger?
 
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