Magnum gurus needed

[Orionsax7]

Picked up a mid-project 2000 Magnum 5.9 for my 65 Valiant. I put an LA small block in my last Valiant. I know what is involved in actually putting this in the car but not familiar enough with magnums quite yet so need advice for the build, itself. Guy is moving and cant take it with him so he gave me everything he has for it. I was told that he had the rotating components internally balanced but I need more trained eyes than mine to take a look and see what you guys think. He also gave me a X style flex plate that i forgot to snap a pic of. I also have bare stock replacement magnum heads. Even if the crank/rods/pistons end up being not usable or can't be trusted, the block itself plus the new parts are already worth more than what I paid for everything. What do you guys think of this? Looks good? Any signs it was internally balanced? I can take the oil pan off for better pics once I put it on an engine stand. Thank for any info you guys can give or any other things you'd like to know. I'm starting a list of things I will need to get. Lots of photos of all parts incoming.......some keep giving errors but will keep trying to uplod

 

[Orionsax7]

Parts

 

[Orionsax7]

More parts

 

[Orionsax7]

I will have to retake pictures of lifters/pushrods/ and some other misc stuff tonight as the photos I took keep getting errors during upload. Engine was 250k miles before rebuild. He was not planning on using these lifters.

 

[MoparLeo]

It should be easy enough to get the name of the shop that did the balance/machine work. If you are going to use that timing cover you will need all of the factory Magnum brackets for the alt, a/c, p/s, and use a reverse rotation water pump. Need to check the heads to make sure that the springs don't bind. You have a .506 lift cam with 1.6 ratio rockers. I think the stock valve springs/guides were only good to .500 . You should get a Magnum service manual or one of the Magnum specific engine build books, available on Amazon. If it is internally balance it should have a new balancer/dampner as the original waas externally balanced and would have a weighted balancer. As you know, never assume anything. I would pull caps and check bearings and crank for any potential problems. Bought a reman engine from a Major parts house chain and pulled the main caps and found the crankshaft had a large gouge in the journal. I never trust anything touched by anyone after the factory. I live close if you want to just give up..................
c

 

[Orionsax7]

Thanks! Book ordered.

Here's the initial list I've started to come up with. At this point I'm more worried about making sure all the components are listed vs the price. I can sho pit around later, just want to get as complete a list as possible. Anyone willing to look through this and offer suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Currently do not plan on using power steering on this vehicle.


Magnum Parts list

HAVE
360 BLOCK 0.030 OVER
STOCK CRANK/RODS/PISTONS-BALANCED
TIMING CHAIN GEARSET MOPAR PERF. P52492667 (84.99)
CAM COMP CAM 20-746-9 (374.98)
VALVE COVERS MOPAR PERF. P5007617 (129.95)
OIL PUMP MELLING M-72 (42.10)
VALVE SPRING RETAINERS (16) MOPAR PERF. P4286775 (340)
FLEXPLATE X-STYLE
BARE STOCK MAGNUM HEADS
ROCKERS (missing one pedestal bolt)
PUSHRODS ----CHECK CONDITION
LIFTERS ----CHECK CONDITION
BALANCER ---NEED TO INSPECT FOR NEUTRAL BALANCE

NEED
OIL PICKUP TUBE MELLING MEL-72-S2 19.30
OIL PAN SUMMIT SUM-G3436 54.99
CRANK BOLT BOUCHILLON P5249557 19.99
OIL FILTER WIX 51515
OIL PRIMING SHAFT MOPAR PERF. P4286800 13.99
INTAKE MANIFOLD EDELBROCK 7577 402.95
--------------- PRO PRODUCTS 55025 282.99
WATER PUMP GATES 43034 34.79
THERMOSTAT GATES 33509 5.69
T-STAT HOUSING DORMAN 902-318 12.28
BYPASS HOSE GATES SX6229 10.66
AC BYPASS BRACKET DORMAN 34178 35.99
SPARK PLUGS ( 8) E3 E3.48 51.92
OIL DIPSTICK PIRATE SP71723 10.95
CARBURETOR EDELBROCK 1406 364.95
DISTRIBUTOR
COIL
INTAKE VALVES (8) CROWN 53020747AB 95.92
EXHAUST VALVES (8) CROWN 53010513AA 175.92
KEEPERS
VALVE SPRINGS

FROM JUNKYARD
ALT BRACKET MOPAR PERF. 53008614 92.91
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
PULLEYS
One rocker pedestal bolt

 

[MoparLeo]

Ok so you are going to use a standard LA timing cover ? If you do and want run a mechanical fuel pump you have to make sure that you get what you need for the front of the cam to do it. Magnum specific cams are shorter in the snout because of the lack of a fuel pump eccentric. The you will need to get all the brakets and pulleys for a v-belt set-up. If you going to use the factory Magnum front cover that is shown on the picture you can only use Magnum specific brackets and pulleys.
Magnum specific intake because of the thermostat location under a factory magnum timing cover. If the heads are factory Magnum and are used. They need to be magged first. Stock heads were prone to cracking between the seats. You might need aftermarket heads as well.
\
Do a search for Magnum and all of the Magnum related posts will show up.

 

[RustyRatRod]

It has the wrong balancer on it if it was internally balanced. It has a later external balance balancer in it. The scallop out of the front of it indicates it is an externally balanced balancer. So, that means one of two things. Either it's stock externally balanced, OR it has the wrong balancer if it's really been internally balanced. I don't believe it would be possible to internally balance that engine with that particular balancer, as it is for an externally balanced engine. I think you need to find "what is what" before you go any further, even if you have to disassemble it and take it to a competent machine shop. Otherwise, it may well disassemble itself. That might suck.

 

[Orionsax7]

Moparleo, the plan is to use the magnum front cover with serpentine belt system. On my parts list of things to get is the magnum alt/ac bracket and an ac bypass pulley. I will also be using an electric fuel pump and magnum-specific intake. The heads that were included with the sale are new stock replacement bare heads, and I will be purchasing springs to match cam.

Rustyratrod, that's kind of what I'm thinking. I will get contact info for machine shop that did work and see what they can tell me. Also, once I get it on the stand, will pull off oil pan for some better pics of crank. Definitely need to have full confidence in this setup before putting together.

 

[Rakers_SS]

Thanks! Book ordered.

Here's the initial list I've started to come up with. At this point I'm more worried about making sure all the components are listed vs the price. I can sho pit around later, just want to get as complete a list as possible. Anyone willing to look through this and offer suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Currently do not plan on using power steering on this vehicle.


Magnum Parts list

HAVE
360 BLOCK 0.030 OVER
STOCK CRANK/RODS/PISTONS-BALANCED
TIMING CHAIN GEARSET MOPAR PERF. P52492667 (84.99)
CAM COMP CAM 20-746-9 (374.98)
VALVE COVERS MOPAR PERF. P5007617 (129.95)
OIL PUMP MELLING M-72 (42.10)
VALVE SPRING RETAINERS (16) MOPAR PERF. P4286775 (340)
FLEXPLATE X-STYLE
BARE STOCK MAGNUM HEADS
ROCKERS (missing one pedestal bolt)
PUSHRODS ----CHECK CONDITION
LIFTERS ----CHECK CONDITION
BALANCER ---NEED TO INSPECT FOR NEUTRAL BALANCE

NEED
OIL PICKUP TUBE MELLING MEL-72-S2 19.30
OIL PAN SUMMIT SUM-G3436 54.99
CRANK BOLT BOUCHILLON P5249557 19.99
OIL FILTER WIX 51515
OIL PRIMING SHAFT MOPAR PERF. P4286800 13.99
INTAKE MANIFOLD EDELBROCK 7577 402.95
--------------- PRO PRODUCTS 55025 282.99
WATER PUMP GATES 43034 34.79
THERMOSTAT GATES 33509 5.69
T-STAT HOUSING DORMAN 902-318 12.28
BYPASS HOSE GATES SX6229 10.66
AC BYPASS BRACKET DORMAN 34178 35.99
SPARK PLUGS ( 8) E3 E3.48 51.92
OIL DIPSTICK PIRATE SP71723 10.95
CARBURETOR EDELBROCK 1406 364.95
DISTRIBUTOR
COIL
INTAKE VALVES (8) CROWN 53020747AB 95.92
EXHAUST VALVES (8) CROWN 53010513AA 175.92
KEEPERS
VALVE SPRINGS

FROM JUNKYARD
ALT BRACKET MOPAR PERF. 53008614 92.91
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
PULLEYS
One rocker pedestal bolt

Which book did you order to help you through the rebuild? I'm working on a similar project and have struggled to find a good magnum guide book at a reasonable price... Look forward to seeing your progress!

 

[Orionsax7]

Thanks! Supposed to come in today so we'll see how detailed it is. Rebuild small block Mopars on amazon. It includes Magnums. Was like $21

 

[triumphman]

Some other input: I bought a 5.9 rebuilt short block with everything, similar to yours. Had everything checked at a machine shop before assembly.
Once started, it smoked(oil) So had to pull it out. Had it completely disassembled. Turns out the rings were installed upside down. They are thinner than the LA's. Second machine shop said that has happened other times.
As someone else mentioned, have EVERYTHING checked.
If you are going with the Magnum belt set up there is picture of my 75 Swinger. Look under "photo garages" page 9 about half way down listed
as Triumphman as a reference. Good luck with it all.

 

[Orionsax7]

Some other input: I bought a 5.9 rebuilt short block with everything, similar to yours. Had everything checked at a machine shop before assembly.
Once started, it smoked(oil) So had to pull it out. Had it completely disassembled. Turns out the rings were installed upside down. They are thinner than the LA's. Second machine shop said that has happened other times.
As someone else mentioned, have EVERYTHING checked.
If you are going with the Magnum belt set up there is picture of my 75 Swinger. Look under "photo garages" page 9 about half way down listed
as Triumphman as a reference. Good luck with it all.

Very nice! Looks like you ran the serp belt without power steering. I plan to do the same thing. Do you remember that belt length?

 

[triumphman]

Do not remember the size of the belt. It is one of those things that you run a string around, take to the parts store and get one that size.
After trying that one you will need to do it a few more times to get it right. Use the factory 5.9 tensioner.
Since I run a underdrive pulley on the water pump, even if I found a number it would not be the same for a stock Magnum set up. Pulleys and bracketry is the same I had on my 1999 Dak R/T. except for the Power steering. It was a separate bracket.

 

[Orionsax7]

Was finally able to bring this stuff home from work and get it mounted on engine stand. For those in the know, are there any signs here that this is internally balanced vs factory external balance? It is 0.030 over

Since, so far, I'm not sure what was done, I'm already making arrangements to take the rotating assembly over to IMM to get checked out.

 

[Bobzilla]

The 518 written on that one rod cap, and maybe 519 I can see on another, matches the big end rod weights Mopar Sam posted in another thread. Pretty good indication someone weighed them for balancing.
Hard to say that means they did get it internally balanced.
Magnum rods

 

[Orionsax7]

Also got this box of bolts with sale. I already separated the head bolts(not in this pic) 10 long and 10 short. Any help in identifying some of these?

A-
B- cam bolt?
C- Timing chain oil slinger
D- ? Maybe front cover? One is shorter
E- looks same as D, but longer
F-?
G-?
H- oil pan bolts? Lots missing
I- misc nuts
J- two darker ones possibly oil pump bolts?
K- torque converter?
L- look like LA rocker shaft bolts, not for this engine

 

[rdunnam]

I would have to talk to the person that built it and find out what exactly has been done prior to going any further. The extra hole that's been drilled in the c/shaft counterweight doesn't appear deburred, so what's the overall work quality of the shortblock build and the balancing. One small visual opens up lots of questions. The new parts look...new, nice. IMO, nice cam also. On the used parts, I would clean and inspect the rockers, buy new lifters, pushrods, headbolts, other fasteners, timing chain tensioner, neutral balance damper (if the assembly is indeed neutral-internally balanced), correct springs to match cam, correct retainers and locks, hire someone with a good reputation to build the new heads. And yes, everybody has differing opinions on some of those items, but that's me. Good luck, let us know what you find out.

 

[Orionsax7]

I would have to talk to the person that built it and find out what exactly has been done prior to going any further. The extra hole that's been drilled in the c/shaft counterweight doesn't appear deburred, so what's the overall work quality of the shortblock build and the balancing. One small visual opens up lots of questions. The new parts look...new, nice. IMO, nice cam also. On the used parts, I would clean and inspect the rockers, buy new lifters, pushrods, headbolts, other fasteners, timing chain tensioner, neutral balance damper (if the assembly is indeed neutral-internally balanced), correct springs to match cam, correct retainers and locks, hire someone with a good reputation to build the new heads. And yes, everybody has differing opinions on some of those items, but that's me. Good luck, let us know what you find out.

Thanks. Yep, many many questions. Im actually taking the short block apart tonight and taking to IMM Engines so they can check it out.

Was thinking of going with hughes iron heads and either the hughes 218/222 roller cam or 222/226 that is 110lsa instead of the 114lsa comp cam that came with purchase. Think there would be much difference?

Lifters, pushrods, bolts will be new. Was planning on reusing rockers...anything that typically goes bad on rockers or things to look for? Do they crack or just wear in general?

 

[rdunnam]

Thanks. Yep, many many questions. Im actually taking the short block apart tonight and taking to IMM Engines so they can check it out.

Was thinking of going with hughes iron heads and either the hughes 218/222 roller cam or 222/226 that is 110lsa instead of the 114lsa comp cam that came with purchase. Think there would be much difference?

Lifters, pushrods, bolts will be new. Was planning on reusing rockers...anything that typically goes bad on rockers or things to look for? Do they crack or just wear in general?

Yea, just look for wear at the contact points of rocker to pedestal pivot point and both valve tip and push rod tip contact points. You will have some shine but mine seemed like little too much for me since everything else was going back new, I replaced with new ones. Or buy a good aftermarket rocker set-up, I know Hughes has something but I don't have a recommendation for aftermarket ones, never bought or used any, yet. My next engine will have a larger cam I'm thinking and I want to find rockers, maybe what folks on here recommend and whatever their experiences have been. If this is for the street, I would run that cam I got in the deal.

 

[Orionsax7]

Never was able to get machine shop info for a definitive answer so apart it comes and off to the machine shop it goes. Gonna start a thread in the members restorations section. Thanks for the help, all!

 

[Brooks James]

It should be easy enough to get the name of the shop that did the balance/machine work. If you are going to use that timing cover you will need all of the factory Magnum brackets for the alt, a/c, p/s, and use a reverse rotation water pump. Need to check the heads to make sure that the springs don't bind. You have a .506 lift cam with 1.6 ratio rockers. I think the stock valve springs/guides were only good to .500 . You should get a Magnum service manual or one of the Magnum specific engine build books, available on Amazon. If it is internally balance it should have a new balancer/dampner as the original waas externally balanced and would have a weighted balancer. As you know, never assume anything. I would pull caps and check bearings and crank for any potential problems. Bought a reman engine from a Major parts house chain and pulled the main caps and found the crankshaft had a large gouge in the journal. I never trust anything touched by anyone after the factory. I live close if you want to just give up..................
c

Last I knew stock magnum valve springs were done at 5000 rpm