magnum manual swap

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lildemonkid

lildemonkid

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hello guys! looking to begin a new adventure with my car. I'm thinking of a 98-02 Magnum engine with a T5 bolted to it. i want to keep the fuel injection and make it as low budget of a swap as i can. the things i would like to know are how the wiring of the ecu to the factory harness goes, and if anyone would be kind enough to write up a walk through on what i need?
 
the most low buck way is a four barrel and its corrosponding intake
 
you will need to use a Mopar crate motor conversion flywheel, and they are not cheap
 
Sorry I'm so late to this, don't get on here much lately.

The conversion flywheel will not work with EFI. The conversion flywheel is just a 130T flywheel balanced for a 5.9 magnum, it does not have the necessary tone wheel notches to run the SMPI.

I've been around and around on this. There are only a couple of options to use the factory EFI and a stick.

1. One individual (fzmax I think) got a manufacturer to custom machine a flywheel for him with the needed notches. Pretty sure it ran $500 or so and I don't know if they will do any more.

2. Roll your own by knocking the starter ring off an OE flywheel and getting the outer diameter machined to fit a 130T starter ring. The above individual tried that and while it has been done successfully, he was unable to find a shop that could do it for him and turned to the custom route. The guy that got it done this way was supposed to get a quote on more of them, been a couple of years and I'm still waiting to hear how much.

3. Move the crank sensor to the front of the motor. I think the easiest method there would be to punch 8 holes in the crank pully and mount a sensor to read them. Only wiring would be to re-route the sensor wiring from the belhousing area to the front of the motor.

I've wanted to do this for some time. If I ever get to it, I will be relocating the sensor. Best way I can see to do this.

BTW, you will need the $400 MP conversion flywheel anyway as the balance is different between the LA 360 and Magnum 5.9. Or, rebalance a flywheel.

You can read more about this by searching for my posts on here. Or try searching on "Flywheel for Magnum swop EFI" or something like that.
 
wow. this is sounding more and more complicated. i had no idea that the crank sensor would have to be relocated...... or that it was so hard to find a flywheel.

well it looks like this idea is scrapped. i was hoping for a really reliable small block. but i can buy/build a big block cheap.
 
Ok guys. If he's using the engine and trans from a 2 wheel drive truck. Why
not just work the computer into the cars wiring. Yeah he needs a engine,
harness and puter to make it work.
 
There was someone on here selling their '73 Dart with a stick and they used the Magnum intake and such with the Megasquirt EFI system. You'd need the whole engine, then buy the kit, then wire it up and tune it. I think the website for it is:

www.diyautotune.com

I know there's guys on here who've used it, and if you have some desire to learn, the setup can be made to work with the big parts (intake with injectors/throttle body, sensors, distributor, etc). Hope that's at least somewhat helpful.
 
Doesn't matter what the EFI management system is, Crank Sensor issues still hold up the boat. My car is a four-speed, and I'm running a 5.9. I've heard of some guys stabbing the flexplate in behind the 4-speed flywheel and are off n' running but I never saw how that would work, my motor didn't have enough room between block face and flywheel.

Honestly, I literally have a crank pulley sitting next to my mill waiting for 8 holes. The bracket to mount the sensor: Cake.

So many options, all the same issue. I could make a plate to bolt on top of the crank pulley. I could machine the pulley itself. I make a trigger wheel.

dodge%20mag%20crank%20pulley.jpg

adding a bolt-in trigger wheel (Phord shown, sue me):
mmfp_1008_18_o%2B2001_ford_mustang_gt%2Bcrankshaft_pulley_hub.jpg


The issue: How do I "clock" 8 holes onto a crank pulley that can be mounted 6 ways (one for each clocking on the damper) so that crank trigger point for cylinder number #1 is always on #1? You have a 2 out of 3 chance of screwing it up! I've heavily contemplated trying it with the later 1-piece damper/pulley, which is clocked. I'm not sure of the interchangeability on old-style and new-style.

This morphodite beast shows the issue best. Picture it, you can rotate the pulley to six places, and picture how the 5 (or 8, natch) holes would be in different places.
1760990-Early_Pump_Mounted-01.JPG


This guy claims this:
http://www.delmarvadodge.com/photo/crankpulley
That sounds like a Pain in the ***. This could be so much simpler.

The one-piece deal. Dorman makes these, too, but I see 'em factory on later engines:
$%28KGrHqV,!pcF!H57VsEyBQRH%28%28brF!~~_35.JPG

1220458.jpg


I'm not sure about cutting 8 holes in these, because of the potential balance issues, and a fear of introducing a stress riser that could cause it to go boom. These are cast, the two piece use a stamped steel pulley; it's much stronger and I have no fear of machining it...just can't clock it.


I think that's why the factory put it on the flexplate to begin with. The offset bolt guarantees that the flexplate is clocked the same, every time.

Thoughts? Anyone has a good idea, post it up and I'll machine it, and several more asap. I'll put 8 holes in a pulley and make a CKP bracket right quick, but you gotta have your head on straight about timing it if you wanna try it.
 
Sorry for huge pics, I'm not sure how to resize.
 
subscribed very interesting,,,much easier to run a auto on a magnum swap,,but thats not hot rodding,,,
 
jos51700 said:
I've heard of some guys stabbing the flexplate in behind the 4-speed flywheel and are off n' running but I never saw how that would work, my motor didn't have enough room between block face and flywheel.
Click to expand...

I don't believe that would ever work. I thought about doing the same, but the guy that got a custom flywheel made posted pictures of a flexplate nested with a flywheel and there isn't any way that would bolt down without deforming the flexplate.

Flexplate_and_Flywheel_zpsf51dc2c0.jpg


jos51700 said:
This guy claims this:
http://www.delmarvadodge.com/photo/crankpulley
That sounds like a Pain in the ***. This could be so much simpler.
Click to expand...

That looks like a flying magnet setup, which wouldn't work with the SMPI. The OE EFI needs a hall effect sensor, the output from a flying magnet setup are different. Not sure what he is selling there, but I don't believe it would work with a Magnum EFI ECM.

jos51700 said:
Thoughts? Anyone has a good idea, post it up and I'll machine it, and several more asap. I'll put 8 holes in a pulley and make a CKP bracket right quick, but you gotta have your head on straight about timing it if you wanna try it.
Click to expand...

Perhaps scribe a line or drill a small hole to signify where TDC should be on the balancer? Line the mark up with the mark on the balancer and bolt it down? Means that it can still be install wrong, but at least with a little thought it would be done right.

I have heard you can run a A833 behind a later v-6 bellhousing that would allow you to run the 143T Magnum flywheel. Pretty sure you have to relocate 2 of the bolt holes, so it isn't a bolt on deal. And then you still have the issue of even less starter clearance in an area where it is already too tight.

Last option is to run an AX15 or R154 with a later Dakota/Ram bellhousing and a stock flywheel. Same issue as above in regards to starter clearance.

I toyed with the idea of mounting a tone wheel to the end of the cam and drilling a hole and mounting a sensor to the timing chain cover. That got too complex, so I dropped it.

BTW, I think the reason the factory put the CPK in the bellhousing was to protect it. Up on the front of the engine, there is plenty of potential for it to get broken by a rock that was kicked up, or something. Or worse, drive it through a big puddle and short it out.
 
Have you guys checked out Affordable Fuel Injection? I called them once before about buying a modified distributor from them...it was like $300, but it gave a Hall Effect signal as opposed to a plain mag pickup...would something like that work for you? Their MPFI kit uses that type of trigger signal if I'm not mistaken...
 
txstang84 said:
Have you guys checked out Affordable Fuel Injection? I called them once before about buying a modified distributor from them...it was like $300, but it gave a Hall Effect signal as opposed to a plain mag pickup...would something like that work for you? Their MPFI kit uses that type of trigger signal if I'm not mistaken...
Click to expand...

Haven't heard about that, but I did look into a dual pickup of some type. The reason it needs to be a dual pickup is that the ECM needs to see both a crank and cam position sensor.

Here is a link about the MP dual pickup their EFI kit was supposed to have - http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=734071&postcount=24

Here is the complete thread, along with the info I found about the MP dual pickup distributor - http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=78887

Here is another thread on the subject - http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=81914

Fast has a dual pickup distributor that might work as well, but spendy. I linked to it in both of the above threads. Tried to look at it again just now and the website is down for maintanence.

BTW, the second thread shows what one guy did to get around this issue. Might check it out just for reference. EDIT - he isn't using the OEM setup, it's for megasquirt and isn't exactly what would be needed. Just an FYI.
 
so i've come up with something nobody has done yet? this is so cool!!!!:cheers:

well this makes it above my budget but im following to see what everyone comes up with!
 
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