Main Stud vs. Stock type oil pump

[DustingBlimps]

Ok, I'll start a new thread on this rather than continue to annoy the other thread.

I've got the ARP studs and the one down by the oil pump sticks up into the way of the pump housing, about 1/2" or so. Haven't really measured.

1wild&crazyguy says : "you need a 12 nut and have to grind it down 'stud n all about .025 into the nut, as in down to where you're taken .025 off the nut."

But I say that kills almost 1/3 to 1/2 the threads in the cap nut.
Seems to me that's a bad thing in a 408 stroker built for 7k rpm.

Does everybody do this, just grind the sucker down to fit the oil pump over?

Do you divot the oil pump housing at all, like a relief?

I want some confirmation before I go grinding on my crankcase.
This thing needs to get spinning.

 

[flyfish]

I did some grinding on the pump, cut the stud down, ground some off the nut...and removed the washer to get a little more room.
I have heard that some folks just use a quality main bolt on that one...what ever you're comfortable with.

FWIW, mine is still holding strong and I shift anywhere from 6200-6500 RPM.

 

[sbmmustang]

I cut the stud down and used the washer and machined the main cap down about .250 down for the washer and 12 point nut to fit without having to grind on the pump housing.I didn't really take a good picture of it but this is all I have.

 

[moper]

I went over it in one of the other hreads.. As I said, I lose the washer, trim the nut and the stud, and sometimes the pump clears with no clearancing, sometimes they hit and need less than .040 removed. Here's a pic:

 

[340mopar]

Did mine just like Moper. been like that for 6 years now.

Chuck

 

[DustingBlimps]

Cool, thanks for the info.

Didn't want to go grinding on mains if there was a better way.

Guess not.

 

[dodge29]

always used a bolt in that hole, never had an issue.....turned the engine 7500 all day long
Dodge29