Metal Building/ Garage…

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mopardude318

mopardude318

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About 4 years ago, I had this slab poured. I thought a raised perimeter wall was a good idea at the time, I was gonna stick frame it. There were some mistakes during the build, I shoulda went with standard sizing, and shoulda had plans for the exact building and layout I wanted. I figured all that can come later.

It measures 27 feet wide by 29 feet long directly in the middle of the raised 8” wide perimeter wall.

Now I’m just gonna go with a metal building. 27x29x12 foot tall. Staying with a 3/12 pitch roof, I’ll be able to accommodate a 9 foot tall by 12 foot wide lean to, with the roof line flushed out.

I wanted one single big roll up door in the front, something like 20 foot wide, but none of the metal building companies offered a door like that. In order for that to happen, I think I’d have to stick frame it with an engineered beam in the front.

So what they offer is two 10x10 doors, or they can do a 12x10 and a 10x10…
What would you do?

Here is some pictures of my slab and the structure rough draft on their website.

All is 26ga vertical paneling, with purlins, 12ga frame with knee braces where the truss meets the legs, and collar beams in the middle.
Six 30x53 dual pane windows and a man door.

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Let them come do the building and you stick frame in the front with the size door you want. People do it all the time.
 
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my shop is 30 wide with a single 16ft roll up. if i had to do it again, i would probably do two smaller doors over the one larger.

granted, i'm stick framed and had some constraints but at the time i thought that was the play.

what type of truss are you going with?
 
What are you going to use it for? If you are looking for the eqivalent of a two vehicle garage, go with the two 10 X10's. The downside of this is that you are losing wall space for equipment like parts washers, welders, bead blasters, etc If you are looking at a hobby shop, go for the single 12 X 10 offset to one side. BTW, the perimeter wall is a good idea. Just insulate over the face on the exterior.
 
Why not stick build the four walls and use engineered trusses. A local lumber yard can source the metal siding and needed fasteners and trims. Make sure you insulate and ridge vent and soffit for breathing. That building is small and manufacture possibly has a perlin going right across that face probably at tue 10’ mark. That is needed cross support for cut down on wind shear loads tweaking the building. Order the building if you cannot stick build for 3 sides and roof. And then stick build front. 2x6 wall and do a 12’tall x 10’ wide door and 2 windows. IMHO. I’ve built a few of these buildings and they are always smaller than you think when done.
 
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@mopardude318
I built a similar building (we call it the barn because we already have a garage). It’s 20x 30 with a 10 foot side shed on it. It has 12 foot high side walls. I built the barn doors myself, using two Unistrut tracks with rollers at the top and rubber wheels on the bottom of each door. The weight of the doors is carried by the rollers on the bottom.
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i put two 10'x10' doors on my 30'x30. I like the flexibility of being able to open only one door.

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Good move with the raised concrete wall around the perimeter. Definitely they are always too small once have everything in them, but you like me, your dedicated to the size you have the floor poured. I bought mine, 40 x 30x 14 with a 10 x 14 door prebuilt in a condo type setting of storage buildings. I have no regrets as it was the last one to be sold so I didn’t have shot at buying one of the larger 30 x 40 or 40 x 50 buildings in the condo park. If I custom built one, not sure how I would go with garage doors. I like my 14 foot ceiling to the bottom of the roof trusses. If I did anything different, it would be for ventilation as it gets too hot in the summer and it would be bigger. Then again I would just buy more cars, right?

Mine has consistently gone up in value since I bought it in 2007, even during the 2009-2011 real estate crisis. It was a good investment. It’s 7 miles from my home and a good refuge from the wife/girlfriend/family.
 
That jack fits in there with a lot of room to spare.. Nice
 
mopardude318 said:
About 4 years ago, I had this slab poured. I thought a raised perimeter wall was a good idea at the time, I was gonna stick frame it. There were some mistakes during the build, I shoulda went with standard sizing, and shoulda had plans for the exact building and layout I wanted. I figured all that can come later.

It measures 27 feet wide by 29 feet long directly in the middle of the raised 8” wide perimeter wall.

Now I’m just gonna go with a metal building. 27x29x12 foot tall. Staying with a 3/12 pitch roof, I’ll be able to accommodate a 9 foot tall by 12 foot wide lean to, with the roof line flushed out.

I wanted one single big roll up door in the front, something like 20 foot wide, but none of the metal building companies offered a door like that. In order for that to happen, I think I’d have to stick frame it with an engineered beam in the front.

So what they offer is two 10x10 doors, or they can do a 12x10 and a 10x10…
What would you do?

Here is some pictures of my slab and the structure rough draft on their website.

All is 26ga vertical paneling, with purlins, 12ga frame with knee braces where the truss meets the legs, and collar beams in the middle.
Six 30x53 dual pane windows and a man door.

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I'd probably go with 12x10 and 10x10beware.

I helped a buds bud on a prefab he picked cheap.
He poured slab himself with assistance.
As a Surveyor I was to layout anchor bolt locations to drill etc.
His wife was not happy as slab was short 6 inches on each side.
I recommended adding 2 feet on each side with deepened footings.
2 diagonal corners were approximately level one corner bout 3 1/2" out and other 2".
Some weeks later I came back, centered layout and gave grades for leveling nuts. Bolts and leveling nuts intalled started erecting and adjusted for plumb. The rest of assembly was a breeze.
If installing yourself beware. .
 
In my area, a garage has a height restriction, barns don't, this can help you for a "lift" .
Id go 2 doors, it can help save heat in the winter .
 
RustyRatRod said:
Let them come do the building and you stock frame in the front with the size door you want. People do it all the time.
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Thinking about it more, I may be okay with the 2 doors. I’m not much of a framer. I’m sure I could find a local contractor.

I’ll look into some larger doors and see what they might require to install.
 
junkyardhero said:
my shop is 30 wide with a single 16ft roll up. if i had to do it again, i would probably do two smaller doors over the one larger.

granted, i'm stick framed and had some constraints but at the time i thought that was the play.

what type of truss are you going with?
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To be honest I’m not sure what kind of truss they use. Probably something similar to what I have here:
This is a 20x25x12 I had installed 3 years ago on railroad ties, gravel floor. Pretty soon I’m gonna concrete the inside. This was just so I had a place to keep my tractor out of the elements but now my old dodge truck and my dart are in there and the tractor is outside again. Lol

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6PakBee said:
What are you going to use it for? If you are looking for the eqivalent of a two vehicle garage, go with the two 10 X10's. The downside of this is that you are losing wall space for equipment like parts washers, welders, bead blasters, etc If you are looking at a hobby shop, go for the single 12 X 10 offset to one side. BTW, the perimeter wall is a good idea. Just insulate over the face on the exterior.
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I’d like to use it as a typical hobby shop, work area. Put my tool boxes in there, a work bench, definitely probably a lift so I can stack or store 2 cars.
 
68gtxman said:
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@mopardude318
I built a similar building (we call it the barn because we already have a garage). It’s 20x 30 with a 10 foot side shed on it. It has 12 foot high side walls. I built the barn doors myself, using two Unistrut tracks with rollers at the top and rubber wheels on the bottom of each door. The weight of the doors is carried by the rollers on the bottom.
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That’s nice! Thank you for sharing. Good idea on the doors.
 
There are also a coupla carpentry teachers here, that build (live-above) shop/storage barns each summer , with their best students.
They also may guide you to some help.
 
I’d go for two 12’ doors. My shop is 32’ wide with a 10’ and 12’ doors and I wish that they were both 12’ now.

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Why go with the lean to on the side and not a bigger enclosure? I remember looking them up a couple years ago and the lean to aspect was almost as expensive as just getting a bigger building.
 
I'm planning on doing something similar Did they pour the slab first and then form the curb /perimeter wall and do a second pour? On my current garage I have two standard doors and I find it convenient especially in bad weather If I want to fire up one of the cars the other one is not getting rained on and losing all the heat. I can open one door halfway and back up the Duster to let the exhaust out but still keep some of the heat in and once the car warms up it will heat the garage for a few hours.
 
mopardude318 said:
I couldn’t afford the cost of anything too much larger. The next one though will be bigger.
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I did a large overhang on my garage so that I could work on things that wouldn’t fit into the garage itself. If you notice the overhang is freestanding designed so that it doesn’t need any corner posts. If I need extra space later I can just enclose it.

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mcodecuda said:
I did a large overhang on my garage so that I could work on things that wouldn’t fit into the garage itself. If you notice the overhang is freestanding designed so that it doesn’t need any corner posts. If I need extra space later I can just enclose it.

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Yea that looks very nice. I mainly wanted the lean to just so I could park my dump trailer or future gooseneck flat deck trailer under there. Anything really to keep it out of the hot sun most of the day.
 
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