mild 360 rebuild questions

-
K

Kirby038

Member
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
belliville IL
hello everyone! would like some good advice on a engine rebuild im undertaking. I have a 360 thats never been rebuild. before i torn it apart it had 140 compression in all the cyclindars. i bought a set of areo heads 2.02 1.60 heads, air gap manifold and a hughes whiplash cam. im looking to do this rebuild for a very reasonble price. so here come the questions haha.

do i have to bore the engine and if i do. can i just buy 30 over pistons and a rebuild kit and assemble myself. Im a crew chief in the airforce and have accsess to a thermal clean machine and a guy who will let me borrow his cam bearing tool.

bottle line what do i have to get done at the machine shop?

how to i go about ordering pistons and a rebuild kit. i was looking a speed pro pistons 9.5-1 .30 and a "stock" rebuild kit. would that work?
 
line bore it just to stay tru yep search thru threads here there was a guy that has a set pistons for 250.00 and rods on e bay s.i.r check for square might need to mill dought it tho just check it and yes see how consistant the bore was from to to bottom they wear over time and rotation so get it bored figgure, turn crank
 
It would need boring and honing, the crankshaft checked and possibly machined. I would balance it if you go with different pistons. It likely won't need line boring, but it can be checked.
What is the head chamber cc? Then figure out what piston hight you need for proper compression.
Once you know these factors, you can order parts.

Or if you really want to do it cheap, check the bores, light hone, new rings, bearings, gaskets. It must be in pretty good shape with 140 psi.
 
Babyblue66 said:
Or if you really want to do it cheap, check the bores, light hone, new rings, bearings, gaskets. It must be in pretty good shape with 140 psi.
Click to expand...

I have a ball hone if you want to run the cheap "clean up" as referenced here. I'm only 1 1/2 hours south of you. Bring it down and we can give it a quick hone.

I wouldn't recommend changing cam bearings yourself if you have not done it before. They can be tricky. You have to make sure that all of the oil holes in the bearings and block line up. If you don't get it right the first time, you will have to buy another set of bearings just to replace the one you f'ed up.

If you had 140 lbs compression, then your block should be in pretty decent shape as it is.
 
krazykuda said:
I have a ball hone if you want to run the cheap "clean up" as referenced here. I'm only 1 1/2 hours south of you. Bring it down and we can give it a quick hone.

I wouldn't recommend changing cam bearings yourself if you have not done it before. They can be tricky. You have to make sure that all of the oil holes in the bearings and block line up. If you don't get it right the first time, you will have to buy another set of bearings just to replace the one you f'ed up.

If you had 140 lbs compression, then your block should be in pretty decent shape as it is.
Click to expand...

And the whiplash cam should work well in it. I also agree about the cam bearings. If they look ok, leave them in. Unless the machine shop does boring and honing, then its good to remove them to fully clean all oil passages.
 
Babyblue66 said:
And the whiplash cam should work well in it. I also agree about the cam bearings. If they look ok, leave them in. Unless the machine shop does boring and honing, then its good to remove them to fully clean all oil passages.
Click to expand...


If you hot tank it, you have to replace the bearings. I recommend letting a shop do it (about $125).

On the block line at the factory that I worked on, we allowed them to be no more than half blocked/misaligned. If more than half the hole in the bearing and block was overlapped, we would make them replace them.
 
Bring it down here, I can give you a good start with the block.
 
A line bore is usually not necessary unless the main bores a re WAY out of whack.
 
sweet great info. Ill be in KS until dec for some training. before i left i snapped some pic of the crank and bore ill up load today.
 
with 140psi I wouldnt have torn it apart. You may be able to just hone it and re-ring it.

Take those Areo heads to a good machine shop and have them checked out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top