Mineral Spirits Vs Acetone

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dibbons

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I started some general painting around here a few months ago, mostly concrete so both water based and oil based paints. The paint brushes I use with the oil based paints never seem to get cleaned up with general thinners or mineral spirits.

I was in a bind the other day when the neighborhood kid stopped by on a Sunday looking for an hour or two of work. All my two inch paint brushes either turned up missing or dried stiff after my previous attempts at cleaning them. I got out the mineral spirits and thought with enough swirling around in it I could rejuvenate one of them--nothing doing.

In desperation, I brought out a glass quart bottle labeled "industrial acetone" that was not quite empty yet. About sixty seconds in the acetone and the brush was almost like new again. All these labels suggesting clean-up with thinner or mineral spirits had given me false hopes all this time. Put the kid to work and we were both happy campers.

The only question remaining is if the acetone damages the bristle brushes somehow, seeing how strong/effective it is?

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my grandfather used to leave the brushes with oil based paint sitting in a closed coffee can with enough mineral spirits to cover the bristles. of course back then, everything he painted got oil base. i don't see the acetone hurting anything, but i'd wash the crap out of them before i used them
 
oil base? Use laquer thinner, I have also soaked them in just diesel fuel over night, wiped them off, and I used with Rusteolum (oil base again)!!!! Go figure
 
For the oil base I suspend the brushes in MS for the short term, overnight or a couple days max. Any longer, if I plan on keeping the brush, using MS, I'll "paint the brush out" on some cardboard laying around. Takes a while but I've had favorite brushes last for years. BTW, If there are small dry paint spots I've used a file cleaning brush on the bristles with some limited success.
 
I understand professionals have all kinds of tricks/equipment combs, spinners, stuff like that. But I don't see that on sale anywhere.
 
Lol, It's not Rocket Science. A cut off plastic 2 liter pop bottle and a stick.
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Acetone will dissolve almost anything. Lacquer thinner is mostly acetone, and it does a good job too. Acetone could ruin the brushes. But I doubt it, if you don't leave them in it too long.
 
All I have to say is be damn careful with acetone. it is flammable as hell, will suck the oils out of your skin and turn your fingers into paper, and is likely a carcinogen. Plus it melts many plastics and other products Breathing it ain't all that healthy for ya, either
 
Acetone will evaporate quicker than lacquer thinner. And MUCH quicker than mineral spirits.
 
My friends parts cleaner had mineral spirits in it, didnt do ****. Called up Safety-clean and they came out and filled it with something that worked great. dont now what it was but it didnt smell half as bad as acetone. Rememebr Benzene, now that stuff was rocket fuel! "Benzene works by causing cells not to work correctly..." nice....
 
Use lacquer thinner for oil. Most lacquer thinner contains a lot of acetone. You could use straight acetone too (which is the same formulation as nail polish remover). It will eventually dissolve plastic brush handles.

If I intend to use the brush (or roller) again soon and with the same color, I wrap them in saran wrap or a plastic bag and stick them in the fridge.
 
I use gasoline. Been using the same brush for about 5 years now. Oil based paints, stains, and water based stuff too. Works great. I leave the brush soak overnight in a glass jar with the bristles completely submerged and rinse in the morning with dish soap and water.
 
My friends parts cleaner had mineral spirits in it, didnt do ****. Called up Safety-clean and they came out and filled it with something that worked great. dont now what it was but it didnt smell half as bad as acetone. Rememebr Benzene, now that stuff was rocket fuel! "Benzene works by causing cells not to work correctly..." nice....

And then there was the stuff "of" older fire extinguishers.........carbon tetrachloride.........nasty stuff but it worked
 
in order of strength strongest to weakest
Acetone
Lacquer Thinner
Mineral Spirits

My father was a painting contractor, I grew up painting pretty much everything (except cars) and for any oil based paint Lacquer Thinner was what we used to both thin the paint and to clean the equipment. Acetone is usually too harsh for many materials and as noted will melt many plastics. In my adult life lacquer thinner is my "go to" for probably 90% of cleaning and thinning jobs. I use acetone if I do not want anything left (oils and such) but acetone does leave a residue that in certain circumstances is not helpful (such as chemical etching). I use it for cleaning parts in preparation for TIG welding and it works well. For many plastics, I will use MEK but you have to be both patient and careful with it (as you do with any of the solvents).

Put it this way, a parts washer usually contains mineral spirits or some formulation thereof; it is much lighter and contains more oil than lacquer thinner or acetone, IMO MS is about 2 steps away from diesel fuel but it has its uses.
 
It really depends on what your 'oil' paint actually is using for its carrier which forms into the film, as well as the solvent.
Not many true long oils still used in 'house paints'. Linseed oil was and still is the most common, but I've seen other animal and vegtible oils on the labels over the years.
Even those that still contain long oils, also have modified oils - alkyds, and with varnishes and enamals, often resins as well for hardness.
Most common now in VOC limited areas are alkyds and urethanes.
All the above should clean up with mineral spirits or paint thinner. The problem with the new VOC alkyds and urethanes etc is they set up quicker. There's less time to lay them onto the wood, and less time exposed to air before they start to set up.
If its not too bad, the hanging method shown above is helpful. They still need to be spun out as much as possible until there's nothing coming out. You can spin by hand - a spinner is just convenient. Sometimes you have to work some out by hand or with a metal comb. I try not to let it get that bad. Its quicker overall to stop and clean the brush before that happens.

All the above assumes using a real bristle brush, and not working with epoxy other specialty or industrial coatings.
If a high percentage of resins have been included in the paint, and they have started to set up - something stronger - like paint remover or brush cleaner may be needed. It also may ruin the brush.
There are some new soap and water clean up 'oil paints'. I don't trust 'em so no observations on them.
Also any paint that forms a film from an emulsion in water (commonly all called latex, but mostly acrylic now) is a different animal entirely. Once those start to set up, it takes something strong to completely break them down. With 'latex', the right brush is a synthetic brush, often nylon. Using the wrong brush for the paint just makes everything more difficult including cleanup.

PS. Mineral spirits can be reused again and again. Let the pigment settle tothe bottom, then pour off the spirits. Let the pigment dry out and its safe to dispose.
 
Here are some facts about many readily available solvents:

Toluene
: An aromatic hydrocarbon. It is a colorless, water-insoluble liquid with the smell associated with paint thinners. Toluene is predominantly used as an industrial feed stock and a solvent. As the solvent in some types of paint thinner, permanent markers, contact cement and certain types of glue, toluene is sometimes used as a recreational inhalant and has the potential of causing severe neurological harm.

Acetone: Acetone is a colorless mobile flammable liquid with a pleasant, somewhat fruity odor. It is readily soluble in water, ethanol, ether, etc., and itself serves as an important solvent. The most familiar household use of acetone is as the active ingredient in nail-polish remover. Acetone is also used to make plastic, fibers, drugs, and other chemicals. After inhaling acetone fumes or ingesting acetone, it enters the blood, which then carries it to all the organs in the body. If it is a small amount, the liver breaks it down to chemicals that are not harmful and uses these chemicals to make energy for normal body functions. Breathing moderate- to-high levels of acetone for short periods of time, however, can cause nose, throat, lung, and eye irritation; headaches; light-headedness; confusion; increased pulse rate; effects on blood; nausea; vomiting; unconsciousness and possibly coma; and shortening of the menstrual cycle in women.

Denatured Ethyl Alcohol: Denatured alcohol is ethanol (ethyl alcohol) made unfit for human consumption by adding one or more chemicals, such as methanol to it. You'll find denatured alcohol in reagent alcohol for use in labs, hand sanitizer, rubbing alcohol, and fuel for alcohol lamps. It's also found in cosmetics and other personal care products. Denatured alcohol serves as a cleaning agent, fuel additive, sanding aid, exterminator, and as a solvent. The agent is an option for removing paint, dirt, or debris from wood surfaces. As a solvent, denatured alcohol works well for dissolving glue, wax, grease, and grime from multiple surface types.

Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), or Butanone: An organic compound. This colorless liquid ketone has a sharp, sweet odor reminiscent of butterscotch and acetone. It is produced industrially on a large scale, and also occurs in trace amounts in nature. It is soluble in water and is commonly used as an industrial solvent. MEK is an effective and common solvent and is used in processes involving gums, resins, cellulose acetate and nitrocellulose coatings and in vinyl films. For this reason it finds use in the manufacture of plastics, textiles, in the production of paraffin wax, and in household products such as lacquer, varnishes, paint remover, a denaturing agent for denatured alcohol, glues, and as a cleaning agent. It has similar solvent properties to acetone but has a significantly slower evaporation rate. MEK dissolves polystyrene and many other plastics, and it is sold as "model cement" for use in connecting parts of scale model kits. Though often considered an adhesive, it is actually functioning as a welding agent in this context. It is an irritant, causing irritation to the eyes and nose of humans. Serious health effects in animals have been seen only at very high levels.

Naphtha: A flammable liquid hydrocarbon mixture. Mixtures labelled naphtha have been produced from natural gas condensates, petroleum distillates, and the distillation of coal tar and peat. In different industries and regions naphtha may also be crude oil or refined products such as kerosene. Mineral spirits, also historically known as "naphtha", are not the same chemical. Naphtha looks like gasoline. Naphtha is used to dilute heavy oil to help move it through pipelines, to make high-octane gas, to make lighter fluid, and even to clean metal.

Xylene(s): Are colorless, flammable liquids, some of which are of great industrial value. The xylene mixture is a slightly greasy, colorless liquid commonly encountered as a solvent. In this application, with a mixture of isomers, it is often referred to as xylenes or xylol. Solvent xylene often contains a small percentage of ethylbenzene. Like the individual isomers, the mixture is colorless, sweet-smelling, and highly flammable. Areas of application include the printing, rubber, and leather industries. It is a common component of ink, rubber, and adhesives. In thinning paints and varnishes, it can be substituted for toluene where slower drying is desired. Similarly it is a cleaning agent, e.g., for steel, silicon wafers, and integrated circuits. In dentistry, xylene can be used to dissolve gutta percha, a material used for endodontics (root canal treatments). In the petroleum industry, xylene is also a frequent component of paraffin solvents. For similar reasons, it is often the active ingredient in commercial products for ear wax (cerumen) removal.
 
I know guys with F bodies and their terrible to break/crack plastic grills use MEK as a glue to repair them. I guess it melts the plastic somewhat and glues it together.
 
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