Mopar friend in PA needs help

[Joey4speed]

Any decent Mopar guy who knows how to navigate electrical issues? Car is near State College PA.
My good friend who introduced me to the world of Mopars recently picked up another 69 Roadrunner. Its a stock 383, 4 speed with newer electronic ignition.
He is having an intermittent issue that appears like its rooted behind the dash, no start and no dash power at times. Car has not been molested and a dash wiring harness has already been ordered.
He's not the best with 12V electric and would compen$ate the person willing to help trace out this intermittent voltage or ground issue.
(I'm now down south and cannot help out).
PM me if interested, so I can give you more information.
Thanks,
Joe

 

[70dart340]

Not to sound simple, but has he checked the bulkhead connector? If it's all original, corrosion may be an issue, and all the current from the alternator goes through it to the ammeter.

 

[Joey4speed]

Yes.
I walked him through that step, best as I could.
-Disconnected bulkhead connector and cleaned from the engine side, (no obvious corrosion visible).
- Tried wiggling bulkhead from underside of dash, with no changes.
- He was able to disconnect and bolt together ammeter connections, still no change.
- And when the car decides to "start and run" he is getting about 13.5 volts across the battery.
Thanks.

 

[4spdragtop]

I'm no help Joe, but it could be at ign switch I believe if he is losing all power.
Hope he gets it fingered out.
Point him to this site as well.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Is it cranking during the no start condition or is the starter falling out too?

 

[DustyEd]

How about the key ignition switch itself? I had to change one out in my '69 Satellite years ago.

Possibly clean the two contact points where the dash frame bolts to the chassis. This is where the dash gets it's main ground. They are located on each side of the dash, above the kick panels. Just loosen the bolts (one at a time) enough to slip a piece of fine grit paper between the contact point. Don't remove the bolt.

Look behind the dash ammeter and see if the terminals appear normal or if they show signs of being hot.

Check out the back side of the fuse box for any signs of abnormality.

 

[Joey4speed]

Thanks guys.
He is throwing in the towel after systematically checking all the usual areas and replacing,
-ballast resistor.
-coil.
-engine harness.
-ignition switch.
Ill pass the intel on to him, but he seems set on finding an actual shop or knowledgeable helper in his area of PA.

 

[Michael Brisebois]

Perhaps, bypass the Ammeter and take it out of the equation.

Was there a position for starting a 4 speed? Mine is too old for that, but wasn't there a "depress the clutch" before starting, procedure?

Fusible link ?

 

[70dart340]

If it's an auto, has he tried it in neutral? Maybe a bad neutral safety switch. Keep trying, don't quit so easily. Lots of brain power on this site. Reread the whole thread, and I see it's an 833 4 speed.