Mopar timing chain tensioner

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joes68340s

joes68340s

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Has anyone installed one of these. it uses three bolts, is there anything special to do when installing on a 340. Thanks
 
Who makes it? Don't think I ever heard of one before, but sounds like a good idea.
 
Kirk, MoPar makes it. It's a standard part used in later years. An O.E part actually
When installing said unit, pull the pin after all the hard work ahs been done. IE Degree cam.
 
They are about $24 from Mancini. It bolts to the block in place of the plate that retains the cam.
 
My question is is there any special concerns with putting it in as it did not come with instructions. And it only uses three bolts.
 
It just goes on like the thrust plate. When I put one on my engine I drilled the 4th hole. I know it didn't really need it, but it couldn't hurt! :thumblef:
 
I got a question. Why do you need a cam chain tensioner. I'm just curious. Are you having problems with chain stretch or worse, jumping teeth.
 
To keep your cam timing "on" while decellerating (engine braking). Sometimes hi-lift cams can cause the valves and piston to miss by a whisker....that backlash can eat up that whisker. There may be other reasons, too that I'm not aware of.
 
Captainkirk said:
To keep your cam timing "on" while decellerating (engine braking). Sometimes hi-lift cams can cause the valves and piston to miss by a whisker....that backlash can eat up that whisker. There may be other reasons, too that I'm not aware of.
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I'll be honest with you. I would never run an engine that has the valves running so close to a piston collision that I would need a tensioner. I've built a few Big and small blocks over the years (mostly big) using anything from .500" to .600" lift cams and always balanced the clearance needs of the valves with the deck height and the type of piston used such as a flat top or notched. If I built an engine where a collision was a concern I would go with a gear drive cam set. My opinion for what it's worth :evil2:

Copy of P9100005.JPG
 
i could be mistaken but, i do' nt think that down shifting reverses the applied pressure to the cam , the crank yes but the valve springs should still hold the tension on the same side of the timing chain .. that crank has to pull the cam around no matter what direction the applied force to the crank... but like i said i may be wrong, and i am sure that someone will correct me if i am.....
 
Small blocks are well know for stretching the timing chain. It doesnt take very long for the chain to get a little slop in it. The tensioner takes up the slack and keeps timing from bouncing around. Its a great upgrade for $35
 
Alot cheaper than a gear drive for a better chance for consistent cam timing. I used a billet Rollmaster 9-keyway timing set with the tensioner, on the dyno the timing mark didn't move at all. compared to most shevys- jumpin all over the place!
 
Summit sells it.

If I recall Mopar started to use it on the V6 engine, based on the 318.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DCC-5007709&N=115&autoview=sku

DCC-5007709 $38.99
Estimated Ship Date: Today
Application Warranty Show All

Brand: Mopar Performance Parts
Product Line: Mopar Performance Timing Chain Tensioners
Timing Chain Tensioner Material: Steel
Drilling Required: No
Welding Required: No
Mounting Hardware Included: Yes
Quantity: Sold individually.

Tensioner Timing Chain "A" Engines & 3.9/5.2/5.9 Magnum Engines

Check to make sure this part fits your application
dcc-5007709_w.jpg
 
I already bought one for my 360, I have seen many small block chains stretched so maybe this item will keep the timing more accurate.
 
It's a $30 bit of insurance and longevity. All chians stretch. Most on the market stretch fairly quick (like under 1000 miles with big cams and springs the fast rate cams like), and while it's a small amount, the tnesioner takes up any slack. Just like they said..Drill a small hole where the 4th bolt would go, and make pulling the pin the last thing you do before the timing cover goes on..lol. Otherwise it's a real PITA.
 
I'm putting one in my stroker. For stock and near stock heads/valvetrain it's not needed. For that matter needed may be a strong word for a modded engine, but as stress and strain go up so does potential for wear. Also keep in mind with a a taller deck than a sbc or sbf that makes the chain longer between gears there for a greater opportunity for flex.
 
Your timing mark will start wanderring around when you hold a steady rpm. It should stay rock solid on a fresh chain and gears, you see the mark move around a few degrees when you look with a timing light.
 
keelhaul21 said:
A quick question, how do you know if a timing chain has stretched?
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If you pull off the fuel pump you can stick your finger in the hole and feel if its stretched but trust me if its been on the motor for a few years its streched.
 
So I'm sitting here reading this thread, knowing my cam chain is really worn and I need to replace it. What timing chain should I buy? It's a generic 273 commando clone (273 commando intake on it with carb and dress up parts). Should I install an tensioner or is that only for racing applications or 340 applications?
 
65s said:
So I'm sitting here reading this thread, knowing my cam chain is really worn and I need to replace it. What timing chain should I buy? It's a generic 273 commando clone (273 commando intake on it with carb and dress up parts). Should I install an tensioner or is that only for racing applications or 340 applications?
Click to expand...

I went with the Comp Cams chain (#2103) for my 318 buildup. It says that it's already pre-stretched so I figured what the hell. Besides it was only another $15-20 from the Summit chain.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294892074+400114+4294908110+115&autoview=sku



I have thought about using a timing chain tensor on mine, so I am glad this thread started up. But now it seems like a no brainer! I am gonna be picking one up.

Mancini sells one cheaper.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/timchainten.html
 
I put one on my 410 stroker buildup,i figure it's just cheap insurance,they put them on all the production 318 and 360 magnum truck vehicles.
 
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