More Sideways than forward..

-
Pateras

Pateras

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
232
Reaction score
54
Location
SW Colorado
Long time lurker, first time posted. Direct correlation to getting serious about shoehorning this BRB into my 67 Barracuda notch. It was originally a /6 base, but now its a high comp 383 mounted to A833 with OD. I'm still haven't dealt with the header situation, but bought some cheap B-bodies just to get the thing started.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0361.jpg
    44.1 KB · Views: 1,264
  • DSC_0368.jpg
    40.7 KB · Views: 1,187
  • DSC_0982.jpg
    32.1 KB · Views: 1,199
  • DSC_0972.jpg
    47 KB · Views: 1,184
  • DSC_0996.jpg
    38.4 KB · Views: 1,200
  • DSC_0241.jpg
    26.9 KB · Views: 1,197
Thanks FJ. I have milled MP valve covers but i just read on some Schumacher documentation that they might hit the Blower motor, guess ill wait and see after the engine is in. Anyone have direct knowledge of this situation? Thanks.
 
Nice work! Should be a runner for sure.
 
Thanks. More progress over the weekend. Also, just checking out these old school rims a friend had.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1338.jpg
    44.7 KB · Views: 1,049
  • IMG_1330.jpg
    84.3 KB · Views: 1,023
  • IMG_1325.jpg
    44.7 KB · Views: 1,040
shifter handle you have is B body 65-67 it is going to touch the dome light :D.
move the steering column collar up against the firewall and recess the heater motor back. flatten pinch seam in trans tunnel. you can put 1/2 inch spacers between k frame and frame, this moves motor down. tack weld to K frame. gives you 1/2 more hood clearance. K frame will probably need notched for oil pump housing. get smallest mini starter u can find. I think it is either 87 or 97 dakota starter.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/forum/showthread.php?2092-How-To-for-Heaterbox-Motor-Modification

383 should not hit heater motor fyi 440 does. moving collar up on steering shaft gives you more room for exhaust/4 speed linkage.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transm...12-four-speed-a-body-clutch-pedal-adjustment/

welcome to the site any questions just ask lots of good people here
 
Thank you Clint, Abody and 70. I love that it's an oddball Hot Rod, not the obligatory 69 Camaro.

Acpat, Thanks so much for the info, I would have searched a year for all these tips.
1. Notched the K frame perch, went nicely.
2. Do i need the extra hood clearance to close the hood? or just recommended?
3. Can I ask what flattening the pinch weld does? Is it in conjunction with steering collar move for maximum header/exhaust room?
4. My steering column is for an automatic, are there any further special allowances for that?
5. I'll see where valve covers are before i jump into the heater mod.
6. Your post about clutch mod is timely;i might tackle that one tonight, so Thanks!
Jeff
 
scatter shield/bell housing clearance is extremely tight to nonexistent in the tranny tunnel. flattening pinch weld gives you more room and keeps it from rubbing bell housing. Lowering K gives you more room in trans tunnel, hood clearance, blower motor etc, I have also heard it helps steering geometry. Wheels look like monoque wheels. Heads up if they are, they are very fragile and break easily in a non track setting. They were a race only wheel not designed for potholes and speed bumps. How are you going to get the overdrive to fall in love and mate to a big block bell housing. The bearing O.D is different. If you want to you can turn one down in a lathe to non OVD bellhousing O.D. you must use cap screws instead of bolts to hold the bearing retainer on.
 
spacers are 1/2 mild steel with hole drilled in center for bolt. If you want a pic pm me a e-mail and I will send you a pic of the spacers. 383 is not that hard to get in an a-body, 440 is much more challenging. Overdrive I hope is a cast iron case ? version. If you plan on slicks be warned small bolt pattern 8 3/4 axles and slicks end up sounding like a little kids vacuum popper lol. Make sure you have frame connectors and a drive shaft loop. Steering column auto or stick does not matter clearance is what you are after. If you look there is a small screw holding the collar in place. you are simply moving the bushing up against the firewall as far as possible to gain clearance. Make sure you weld in the plate for the Z bar stud as the sheetmetal will not support it and the sheetmetal will tear. It goes behind drivers side wheel in the wheel well. the hole is there but the plate was only put in stick cars.
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FB676
 
acpat said:
spacers are 1/2 mild steel with hole drilled in center for bolt. If you want a pic pm me a e-mail and I will send you a pic of the spacers. 383 is not that hard to get in an a-body, 440 is much more challenging. Overdrive I hope is a cast iron case ? version. If you plan on slicks be warned small bolt pattern 8 3/4 axles and slicks end up sounding like a little kids vacuum popper lol. Make sure you have frame connectors and a drive shaft loop.
Click to expand...

I have done most of what is described here, except for the k frame spacers. may still do that on down the road tho. what made mine even worse was me using raised port "victor" type heads,makes everything worse! now heater delete, but have a small hotrod heater to install for defrosters. there is a little play in the steering column where it passes thru the firewall, loosen all bolts and slide it toward the out side as far as you can, won`t be much, but it will help. keep pluggin!
 
famous bob

okay this is not for everyone. You can take a set of small block truck pancake motor mounts and burn out the center in a trash barrel etc.We put wire on each stud and hung it in the barrel until rubber melted off. one half bolts to a B body motor mount steel. other half to K frame.This is with a small block k frame never tried it on anything else. you now can shim the motor up and down until you get it where you want it using different thicknesses of metal. This is how we made BB mounts when we were kids. If you simply welded the two mount halves together without the rubber you would drop motor 1/2 of a inch. using spacers you would drop it another 1/2. this might offset your raised port heads. we would get everything level and shimmed up then tack it all together. removed tacked up mounts and weld solid. No conversion mounts back then and it works. no idea on hedder fitment as we were using fenderwell hedders
 
Hi guys. Thanks for all the information, i was able to get quite a bit done over the holiday weekend.
As you might have seen, i posted a few days back asking about my overly long tranny input shaft. I read the BBD A833 tech article twice, but never saw that one sentence. I cut 5/8" off, rounded it, and it fit perfect. My notch on the engine mount ended up being damn near perfect as the oil adapter fit right in. My 3-4 shifter linkage rubs the unibody cross member just a touch, I'll remove, bend, reinstall. It looks as though i have to shim my crank pulley like 3/16". More on that later.Driveline, fuel pump, gas tank, TDC/distributor and one valve cover (I needed to see if my covers cleared the blower motor) are complete now. now just working on the punch list items. Off to Texas to hunt hogs for 4 days so It'll be a week before I can get back to it. Thanks for everyone's help.

Sorry for the grainy pics, my iPad was freaking out this morning.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0025.jpg
    46.3 KB · Views: 811
  • IMG_0023.jpg
    48.1 KB · Views: 815
:cheers:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0041.jpg
    50 KB · Views: 766
  • IMG_0039.jpg
    48.4 KB · Views: 783
  • IMG_0037.jpg
    54.2 KB · Views: 808
Forget to address the Bellhousing to 833 OD question. I bought this car/project from an old Mopar guy in Grand Junction, he said all the parts were carefully selected, and all fit together; all i would have to do is put it together. Sure enough, short of having to lop off the end of the input shaft, everything bolted right up. So, i had no idea about the obscurity of the "correct" bellhousing, and cant confirm whether the PO had my housing bored. I will get the numbers off the side of the BH and post them here. Thanks.
 
Here are the pics of the modified A833 OD shaft. I'm almost 100% sure i took off 5/8", leaving a total 3 and 3/4".
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1422.jpg
    51.6 KB · Views: 739
  • IMG_1418.jpg
    52.3 KB · Views: 743
  • IMG_1416.jpg
    53 KB · Views: 735
  • IMG_1413.jpg
    63.6 KB · Views: 761
  • IMG_1410.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 749
  • IMG_1398.jpg
    54.1 KB · Views: 734
  • IMG_1397.jpg
    68.3 KB · Views: 764
Still deciding what to do about exhaust. A guy told me that finding the exact exhaust manifolds for my application would be like finding he's teeth; i thought for a week now that any HP Magnum manifolds would fit the B-Block, is that not true?

Does anyone have pics of manifolds on a B block in an A-body? thanks.
 
Pateras said:
Still deciding what to do about exhaust. A guy told me that finding the exact exhaust manifolds for my application would be like finding he's teeth; i thought for a week now that any HP Magnum manifolds would fit the B-Block, is that not true?

Does anyone have pics of manifolds on a B block in an A-body? thanks.
Click to expand...

They are rare and pricey, can't remember casting numbers off my head. Seams like I saw pictures in the Big Block section, and I am too lazy to get mine down from the attic. It may be cheaper to buy headers, although I do not like them. The stockers run good, I've had an original 68 Formula S for decades. Even used it as a daily driver for years. It was automatic and would go sideways about 2 feet from first to second. If you want a pair, post a want add?
 
66fs said:
They are rare and pricey, can't remember casting numbers off my head. Seams like I saw pictures in the Big Block section, and I am too lazy to get mine down from the attic. It may be cheaper to buy headers, although I do not like them. The stockers run good, I've had an original 68 Formula S for decades. Even used it as a daily driver for years. It was automatic and would go sideways about 2 feet from first to second. If you want a pair, post a want add?
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot 66, i appreciate you taking the time to post. I will post a want ad. Cheers. :burnout:
 
Man, it's been longer that i thought since I've posted, in part due to my mother-in-law coming and staying with us for one day shy of a month! OMFG. It's kind of like having your mother-in-law staying at your house for a month..

I had some requests to post info about the bellhousing i used for my OD 833, turns out its 2468372. 5.125' ID on the bearing retainer opening if i'm not mistaken (Thanks to all for your help on that side discussion) If you saw the other post, the Tranny in my trunk (no pun intended) was not the OD, I have 2.

Since i needed a modified Z-bar anyway, at $110.00 or whatever, i decided jump in on a full hydraulic clutch. upon reading numerous positive reviews, I went with a McLeod.
 

Attachments

  • iPhone_Spring_2015 281.jpg
    42.1 KB · Views: 620
  • iPhone_Spring_2015 249.jpg
    72.6 KB · Views: 652
  • iPhone_Spring_2015 250.jpg
    45.7 KB · Views: 585
I decided that since i didn't want to ruin it, i had a buddy/racer/Speed shop/Mopar Head install it for me.

**if duplicating this build, note that he had to remove and turn the Bearing Retainer on the lathe to lower the shoulder just a touch.** The clearance were in the instructions.

He mounted the remote reservoir on the FW next to the Master Cylinder; relocation of the was necessary. Pics to follow.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top