Motor Mounts

-
C

cuda620

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2014
Messages
1,823
Reaction score
194
Location
indiana
ISO poly lock engine mounts for bigblock to A body swap. Biscuit style. Schumachers isn’t a good source anymore. Thanks
 
They’re not for swapping the bigblock into an A body. Thanks
 
cuda620 said:
They’re not for swapping the bigblock into an A body. Thanks
Click to expand...
So, are you looking for just the poly mounts (isolators) or the engine brackets also to do the swap? If looking for the brackets, do you have a slant six or smallblock k frame?
 
The ones u referenced above r not for a bigblock into an A body. Thanks
 
???

images_ePIM_original_4698_w960_h600_bgffffff_q80.jpg

MOPAR B/RB into1967-72 A-BODY (with SB V8 K-member) Motor Mount Kit
Engine Mount Kit With Pads For Installing a MOPAR B/RB Engine into a 1967-72 MOPAR A-BODY (with SB V8 K-member)


images_ePIM_original_Menu_logo-TransDapt_w600_h400_q80.png

Part#4698

$66.91
Find Local Dealer
images_PROP65-SHORTFORMWARNINGLABEL-CA_w150_h90_bgffffff_q100.jpg
 
From the TransDapt specs:
USES MOUNT PAD #TD 4221; OE pads for 69-71 Dodge D/W-Series truck (225/3.7L) (ie: 2266, 602266)
From the Polybushings.com site:
If your normal auto parts store says
your mount is number #2265, #2266
or #2469 then this mount will fit your car
or truck.
 
It appears that I am Wrong. I stand Corrected. Thank you very very much for ur help. As u have put a lot of research into this and it helps me a lot. So many others wouldn’t have.
 
Imo, do not use poly-loc engine mounts.
I've stated it many times, poor design, each side within the poly can easily slide past each other, that's why some versions have external braces built into each side.

Braces or not, torque strap or not, the poly gets pummeled, destroyed inside and actually reduces the width of the mount lowering the engine. It also can be seen blowing out the top and bottom, looks like a smore of poly.

Screenshot_20201104-132409.jpg
 
cuda620 said:
It appears that I am Wrong. I stand Corrected. Thank you very very much for ur help. As u have put a lot of research into this and it helps me a lot. So many others wouldn’t have.
Click to expand...
No prob.
Hope it all works out for you.
 
matthon said:
Imo, do not use poly-loc engine mounts.
I've stated it many times, poor design, each side within the poly can easily slide past each other, that's why some versions have external braces built into each side.

Braces or not, torque strap or not, the poly gets pummeled, destroyed inside and actually reduces the width of the mount lowering the engine. It also can be seen blowing out the top and bottom, looks like a smore of poly.

View attachment 1715624799
Click to expand...
Ur suggestions?
 
Buy standard rubber, drill a hole through it and the steel mounts, stick a bolt through it, screw a lock nut down right before it's tight, done.

A number of members have done this, some use a flat head countersunk bolt.
 
matthon said:
Buy standard rubber, drill a hole through it and the steel mounts, stick a bolt through it, screw a lock nut down right before it's tight, done.

A number of members have done this, some use a flat head countersunk bolt.
Click to expand...
Is there room to do this? I’ve not seen the mounts.
 
I have bolts through both my mounts.
Driver's side has plenty of room, original bb car, here is a reference: Best Place to Buy Motor Mounts For my 383 Formula S.

I'm sure the countersunk bolt head helps.

I used the same method for the passenger side, iirc the only issue was I had to shave off one side of the bolt head on the top for clearance, which also helped to hold the bolt in place.
I found only 'controlling' the driver's side mount wasn't enough, as once I did the passenger side failed.
I have a tunnel ram so it was quite obvious when the mounts would fail. Once my driver's side was secure, the passenger side failed and the carbs were in contact with the hood.
Imo, the engine isn't technically lifting on the driver's side, it's twisting.
 
matthon said:
Imo, do not use poly-loc engine mounts.
I've stated it many times, poor design, each side within the poly can easily slide past each other, that's why some versions have external braces built into each side.

Braces or not, torque strap or not, the poly gets pummeled, destroyed inside and actually reduces the width of the mount lowering the engine. It also can be seen blowing out the top and bottom, looks like a smore of poly.

View attachment 1715624799
Click to expand...
have to agree after blowing 3 sets of poly mounts
 
This is tad old thread, but seems appropriate place to ask: do 2265 and 2469 motor mounts interchange? I have -65 Valiant with blown 360 and the motor mounts are just completely shot. Long term plan is to move into solid mounts, but I need to replace the mounts before spring just to get the car running and driving again. I think that having 2469 mount at least on drivers side could limit the twist. Polybushings.com states that their poly-mount would be replacement for both 2265 and 2469 so that makes me think that I could replace the 2265 mount with 2469 for now? For the record, the car is "old school" race car and does have chain bolted to engine on drivers side mount, but that seems not to be enough to stop the engine twisting (at least with the shot mounts).

EDIT:
For the solid mounts I'm looking for example these PLYMOUTH Moroso 62540 Moroso Solid Steel Motor Mounts | Summit Racing
With that price I could order and swap those in right away, if I could be sure that they in fact fit the Valiant with 360 and will be direct replacement for current mounts.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top