motor run motor start.

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sorewrist1

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Hi I just changed my coil location to the fender side of the engine compartment. now the motor won't start. That is not surprising cause it hasn't been started in about a year. Kept indoors. I put a little gas down the carb It turns over strong but sounds like no spark. funny thing when I let go of the key it pops out the carb. turn it over again ,let go of the key pops again . did this 3 or 4 times. The timing may be off a little but does this sound like a motor start -motor run mix-up on the ignition wires? I din't know how I could have screwed up those wires just moving the coil. Dumb mistakes are really the only ones I'm any good at. Anyways could someone give me a refresher course on the motor run motor start part of the ignition system and wire colors. oh I put in a new coil and distributor and the resistor wasn't needed. It started and ran fine last year so I think I just screwed something up. Thanks for the reply.Jim
 
Depending on what year it is it probably needs a ballast resistor.
 
Popping out of the carb for me points at firing. Go over correct firing order and plug location. I had this problem 3 days ago. I had pulled my valve covers off to check for gasket leaks and put the cover and wires back, my eye followed the wrong wire and I got 1/3 mixed up and could figure out for 30 minutes why it ran like ****.

Jake
 
thanks Mike Its an aftermarket coil and distributor. No ballast resistor needed
 
xLURKxDOGx said:
Popping out of the carb for me points at firing. Go over correct firing order and plug location. I had this problem 3 days ago. I had pulled my valve covers off to check for gasket leaks and put the cover and wires back, my eye followed the wrong wire and I got 1/3 mixed up and could figure out for 30 minutes why it ran like ****.

Jake
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thanks Jake It only pops when I let go of the key
 
try starting it with the solenoid bump trick (bridge the power lug to the spade connector when the ignition is on with a screwdriver, not START) This will help isolate the issue if its a switch issue.
 
pishta said:
try starting it with the solenoid bump trick (bridge the power lug to the spade connector when the ignition is on with a screwdriver, not START) This will help isolate the issue if its a switch issue.
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you mean ignition switch?
 
yes, I got my car home with a hot wire to the coil + and a screwdriver when I lost my keys at the beach. Not real good for the points but my *** was grass if I didnt get her home by midnight!
 
sorewrist1 said:
you mean ignition switch?
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I think he (Pishta) means jump the solenoid with the key in the run position and see if it starts.

90-StarterSolenoid.jpg
 
Last edited:
You know, after thinking about this for a min I think it's either no signal from the distributor, or an ignition module.
The pop when the key is turned off usually means the coil is getting power and when the key is turned off the coil field drops and you get one spark firing whatever fuel is available in the cylinder the rotor is pointing at when the coil fires that one spark.

Might be time for some specifics on what coil and distributor exactly, so we can see the wiring layout needed for what is being used.
 
Voltmeter is often a good trouble shooting tool. Read the voltage at coil +, with key in run, and start positions. Also check the coil -, when cranking, it should bounce up and down. If it is always down, then no spark. ... and when you release key it will fire ... and possibly backfire. Stuck low, coil - , wire short to ground , ignition module shorted, tach wire short.
 
TrailBeast said:
I think he (Pishta) means jump the solenoid with the key in the run position and see if it starts.

View attachment 1715139338
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got it will try it tomorrow after work
KitCarlson said:
Voltmeter is often a good trouble shooting tool. Read the voltage at coil +, with key in run, and start positions. Also check the coil -, when cranking, it should bounce up and down. If it is always down, then no spark. ... and when you release key it will fire ... and possibly backfire. Stuck low, coil - , wire short to ground , ignition module shorted, tach wire short.
Click to expand...

Why didn't I think of that. checked the coil no voltage strange checked the battery no voltage very strange checked continuity in my leads one bad lead . now things are making sense. The electric fuel pump is doing all it can to make 1 lb. Time for a new one. It did finally pump up enough for the acc pumps to squirt. It started up but ran pretty rough. I think once I time it and the lifters pump up it will be OK. sometimes I think too hard. everyone Thanks for the help. Jim
 
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