MSD Ignition Installed

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onehellofadart

onehellofadart

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Just finished installing my MSD distrb, 6-al box and blaster coil. :D .Before the install I was at 8* initial and all in at 3000rpm at 37* total. Im now at 21* initial all in by 2200rpm at 34*. At first she would fire and shut down. Did this untill I re hooked up my ballest resistor. I thought the resistor came out of play with the install of the MSD system?
Any ideas on that?
Any way I took it out for a test :shock: :shock: :shock: :D :D :D .
Before with 28lbs of air in rear tires I would bring it up to 2000rpms, leave a 4' patch then she would hook and go. Now 2000 rpm spun tires for about 35'. Will try again later or tomorow with 15-18 lbs of pressure in rear tires. She ran completely different too. She went like hell after she stopped spinning. went up over 6200rpm in no time in 1st and 2nd. It was like I installed a new cam. Could not stop smiling and sayin HOLY SH*T to myself the whole little test ride. I'm a happy camper for the moment. Even the wife was out helping me, handing me tools :). Let me know if you have any thoughts about the ballest resistor thing.
 
I have an all msd set up and as far as I know you gotta keep the ballast resistor. One plugged in and one in the glove compartment. :lol:
 
I've always used MSD ignitions, and have never used a resistor. Try putting a jumper across the resistor and see if it still runs okay. If it does then its something else in the wiring. Minimum voltage for the MSD is 12v, and at 14v it runs better. When you run the resistor it drops the voltage, so in "theory" you're holding it back.
But whatever the case, I get the same reaction from people whenever I've installed a MSD into their cars. I love those things :D
 
Huh, i did not know that. Makes sense though. I guess I'll be going outside and removing that today. :lol:
 
you guy's have my interest. I have the crane ign and am using a ballast. So what your saying is just ix-nay the ballast and connect the wires?
 
It sounds like your ballast is fried, thats happened to me too. I'm just gonna put a jumper on it and be done with it.
 
Can you just jump it out? I would think it is doing something since the car won't run without it. Is the resistor like a inline fuse or does it serve another purpose ?
 
If you unplu it it wont run because its completeing a curcuit. Ypou need to connect the wires or take an old resistor, gut it and soder a wire from one end to the other.
 
:shock: Could any of you guys tell me how much of an improvement the MSD setup has made to your 1/4 mile times?

An estimate would even be nice! :D

I hear nice things about some parts and it would be good to balance how much improvement has been gained against the dollar spent!

I am running stock Chrysler dissy and the usual Orange ecu but looking and listening there seems to be a lot of happiness with MSD ignitions and billet distributors. :mrgreen:
 
BARRACUDA340S said:
you guy's have my interest. I have the crane ign and am using a ballast. So what your saying is just ix-nay the ballast and connect the wires?
Click to expand...

Chad got the Crane Hi-6 in his Duster and we put it in without the ballast resistor. It doesn't take much voltage to make these systems run, but to run right they need at least 12 volts. I know in some of the early generic motors HEI systems they had a problem with run on when you used a MSD due to stray voltage from the altenator. So when you turned the key off the engine would still be running. You had to put a diode in the alternator line so when you turned the key off the engine would stop.

318ute if you install a MSD setup, it'll feel like a whole different engine. The MSD will easily work with a stock electronic distributor, but the MSD distributor is easy to tweek and adjust. They look cool too :D
 
UTE Im not sure how much power it will add but it idle better, get better fuel milage,better throttle response and make start up better. :D
 
The MSD 6a or 6al and Master Blaster or MB II coil does not require or want the ballast resistor.

The ballast resistor is only there to reduce primary voltage to the coil after the engine is running. The full voltage of the system is applied during start.

The MSD does not require this. It wants a full 13.x voltage.

Drop the ballast resistor.

hth,

Jim (anyone want to buy some new ballast resistors?)
 
sounds like the same problem i had with the engine shutting off after it started. The porblem weas that I was getting voltage on the start circuit and when you let go of the key it after it started it would loose voltage. My fix right or wron was to take the ignition coil circuit and the starting circuit front eh ignition swithc and wire it direct into my HI6 box. No more problem. She starts and runs like a champ.
 
You guys are correct, any CD type ignition system requires 12V or more, preferrably 13.5 to 13.8 but they will operate very well down to about 10V, below that you'll have a very weak spark.

The CD ignitions use a capacitor inside the box itself, it converts 12V to 440-480V and fires it at the coil the coil then converts that charge to about 40,000V to fire the plug.

onhellofadart: All your gains didn't come from the MSD system, they mostly came from getting your timing closer to where it needed to be and by holding the timing in the motor as the resistance increases.

Just from what you have stated here I would guess your cam is about 230-236 duration at 50, that's why it liked the 21* of initial. You were probably running a Orange box or something similar which will pull anywhere from 6-10* of timing out of the motor as you load it so your 37 was probably more like 30* under power.

Timing events and outputs are critical to overall performance, with recent changes and the merger of the 2 largest Mopar Ignition ECU manufacturers there is no longer ANY quality, stock appearing ECU's made in the USA....well except for ours of course.

All 3 of our cars BB '70 Dart (9.88) 451 '64 Valiant (10.30) and the 318 Fish (11.62) run our Wide Band Coils, the only car that gets an MSD distributor and box is the Dart.....all run flawlessly.

For MOST of the applications here it really comes down to how much you want to spend to achieve the same results.....$600+ for a complete MSD system or $300 for a complete FBO Ignition System.

Before you invest in more that you really need you might want to review the FAQ page:

http://www.4secondsflat.com/a688specs.html

Don
 
Don I think Tonys cam is in the 240's. Should he try more timing ?
 
My cam Is a Comp # 20-224-4.
Valve gross lift .488 intk .491 exhst
Duration @ .050 230 intk 236 exhst
lobe lift .3250 intake .3270 exhaust
Cam is installed at 106 intake center line.

Also I guess I move the distrb when I got that 21* mark. It is now at 17* initial & 34* total all in by 2200 roms
And I do agree that the power I'm feeling now is due to proper timing.
 
Ok I was wrong. I thought you had a XE284 in it. wich is the next size up.
 
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