Mueller metal buildings

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RockinRobin

RockinRobin

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Does anyone have any experience with this company?
I am looking into a 30 x 30 or 30 x 40.
Trying to decide what height is needed to accommodate a decent lift.
Also would like a roll up door on both ends so I can park my racing trailer inside and
drive it through when I need to take it out.
Also trying to decide between 4" and 6" concrete.
 
I have a 12 foot ceiling and the lift maxes out well before the roof of the car hits. I think that's pretty typical of most lifts. As for the concrete?? I have four inches and it's fine. But..........I have two feet of four inch river rock mixed with road base underneath it. I don't know if I'd do four inches with soft dirt.
 
get multiple quotes from different companies. There are just a actual few manufacturers of buildings
 
I think the lifts require 6 inches of concrete if it's a 2 post. Also check with your post manufacturer for ceiling height. Then allow a little more.
 
4" of concrete is fine if you use a 4 or 5 bag mix... mine is 5 bag with fiber mesh added... no problems holding up my old heavy 9k weaver two post...been working well since 1994...
 
Having had a lot of concrete poured on the farm over the years I would recommend---
5 1/2 sack mix, have a fair amount of larger aggregate added( this helps spread any load pressure), 6 inch thick with at least a 12" deep footer around the edge, if using fiber mesh also use at least a reasonable amount of rebar ( I wish I had on some projects, but concrete guys talked me out of it). I know to some ,my suggestions are overkill but I want to KNOW that it will be good. JMHO
Yote
 
Has anyone around Fort Worth heard anything about Miller's Metal Buildings? I sent out for a few quotes, but they are the only ones who have answered so far.
 
I have a mueller in my town. They are preengineered buildings requiring a specially constructed slab with J hook stud anchors so the beams can be bolted down. The slab cost alone for one of these was cost prohibitive for me, plus if i wanted to move any of the openings around differently than their "engineered drawings" it would have cost me even more. In the end i had mine stick built on site to my dimensions. Its a pole barn. 4" sq tubes form the supports. These are concreted 3' in the ground. Then the rest of the building was framed out, insulated and sheetmetaled. The garage door approach and personnal door threshhold were both framed out afterwards, and the slab poured last. 6" thick reinforced using the steel sidewalls as a permanent form for the rest.

Building is 27' deep ×31' wide. 18' roll up door with personnel door on the same side. Its made to fit my needs with the openings where i need them, not in a spot where a manufacturer says it has to be. This is what you can do with stick built steel.

A buddy of mine went with a pre engineered 24x24 mueller. His 10" roll up door is dead center. And the slab cost him a fortune. Also Kinda hard to fit 2 cars in there that way. If interested in the builder who did my building, as well as a metal roof and killer 25x25 carport PM me. He is in the Abilene, Clyde area, but may be willing to travel to FT Worth area.

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My 4 post topped out i can fit my 92 chevy 4x4 with a cap. 13 feet if i recall. Topped out is too high to do any work. If you have a lower ceiling, and all you work on is cars then great. One major shortfall in my shop, i cant open overhead door all the way if i have my truck on hoist. 10 foot tall door means set hoist 10 feet away from door. I cant as shop is too short.
The pre fab buildings leave a lot to be desired, post frame and metal siding is someting that can be tailored to your needs.

Never heard anybody say the shop is too big.
 
Tooljunkie said:
My 4 post topped out i can fit my 92 chevy 4x4 with a cap. 13 feet if i recall. Topped out is too high to do any work. If you have a lower ceiling, and all you work on is cars then great. One major shortfall in my shop, i cant open overhead door all the way if i have my truck on hoist. 10 foot tall door means set hoist 10 feet away from door. I cant as shop is too short.
The pre fab buildings leave a lot to be desired, post frame and metal siding is someting that can be tailored to your needs.

Never heard anybody say the shop is too big.
Click to expand...

Swap it out with a drum type roll up door to correct that problem you have and not block your overhead lighting or your lift when your door is open. I never liked hinge and panel doors on rollers and tracks except for a main home garage. They take up too much space overhead. My 9x18 was about $800 if i remember correctly. Rolls up smoothly with a hand operated chain
 
So how do these roll up doors insulate against -40 on the coldest days? If its not well insulated, would freeze solid. If i recall, my panels are R15. And i get frost build up on them on cold days.
 
They dont. But then again the coldest we ever got here was 12 degrees above zero. It wont freeze solid though. In those temps you might lol.
 
Did a little search, there are insulated doors, i wouldnt want to foot the bill.....
 
In my area I'm using econo fab pole buildings and they recommended a 14' eve height. Said with the header it is a true 13' 6" height. The lift dealer here says 4" concrete 3500 psi, and rebar or fiber mesh. Or old livestock fence. I'm going 36x48x14 a 10x10 door and 10x12 door. Going to put my lift far enough back in it won't matter if door is up or down. I saw a 36x36 two bay shop a few days ago and I am glad I went the extra 12'. If you got the room go at least the 30x40, bigger if you can. Just be sure on your local codes. Here the higher the eve, the further off any property lines you have to be.
 
I'm in the concete business, and I would go with 6" 4000psi mix with wire mesh. Personally for a job that big, I would only go with ready-mix off a truck. With bags you will not get much consistancy. IMHO
 
I'm definitely going with a ready mix truck. And I was going to go deeper where the lift will be and rebar the entire pad.
 
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