My Dart Swinger Project!

-
moparmat2000 said:
Looking great Kevin. It has the right stance. I'd paint the outside flat black or dark gray primer, and it will look just like a bootlegger car. Primer is finer, at least in my book it is. On them floor pans, I agree a 2 part mix type epoxy primer is probably the best to seal them up. However if you cannot find that, then brushable rustoleum brown color rusty metal primer in a pint or quart can works really well. Stir it up really good and apply 2-3 nice thick coats with a paint brush. I had an old 71 C/10 I painted the entire inside of the bed with this stuff. Worked great, and pretty inexpensive.
Click to expand...
Thanks bud. Eventually I will paint it all the same color hopefully next spring. That Rusteoleum is exactly what I used lol I cut all the rust out painted it with the red oxide Rusteoleum then sprayed the metal I was welding in on the bottom side, I left the top bare just to reduce the amount of smok during the weld, then after everything cooled down I I applied another coat then painted it black over it.

20200414_171450.jpg
 
dartfreak75 said:
Update time. Got alot done the past couple days but no real progress seems like everything I do puts me 3 steps in the wrong direction lol. I got the rearend finished up and the axles back in and got my spring arches in the mail. In the process of measuring I realized something was seriously wrong there is a lot of play in the axles I thought I messed up and cut the tube wrong or something but come to find out the carrier bearings are bad (or at least I hope that's what it is) I pulled the carrier yesterday and got the old bearings off and ordered new ones I went ahead and ordered the axle bearings and seals too might as well replace them while I'm at it. I was gonna spray some paint today but then it started raining so I guess it will have to wait another day. Today I'm being lazy havent done much I'm getting ready to go find something to do I gotta mow the yard at some point lol

View attachment 1715502118

View attachment 1715502119

View attachment 1715502120

View attachment 1715502121

View attachment 1715502122

View attachment 1715502123

View attachment 1715502124

View attachment 1715502125

View attachment 1715502126
Click to expand...


Just got my 8.8 today where do I get the correct spring perches and shock plates since the tube are bigger than an A body
 
You can use the MP ones and either grind the radius to fit, or just weld em up and fill the small gap with weld. I was able to find some made to fit the 3&1/8" tube on Evilbay of all places. Think they ran me $38 shipped.
 
moparmat2000 said:
You can use the MP ones and either grind the radius to fit, or just weld em up and fill the small gap with weld. I was able to find some made to fit the 3&1/8" tube on Evilbay of all places. Think they ran me $38 shipped.
Click to expand...


So just use stock 8.75 shock plates and basically elongate the wholes..as far as spring perches you found some on ebay..
 
Oh ****, shock plates lol. I was thinking woukd on perches. Yes you can get away with elongating each hole on the shock plates about 1/16"
 
moparmat2000 said:
Oh ****, shock plates lol. I was thinking woukd on perches. Yes you can get away with elongating each hole about 1/16"
Click to expand...

Ok cool I'm pretty excited about this 8.8 even though it's a Ford part but hey it's not a high dollar numbers matching car. Was a 70 dart with a 6 banger now I'm building a 5.7 hemi stroked to a 6.4 should be fun. Bought the 8.8 locker 3.73 for 150.00 today..8.75 for A bodies is not worth the search or money. I popped the cover off and everything looks pretty good. Think while it's out I'm gonna put all new bearings and and seals in it. Once I shorten the long side to match the short side. What is the width difference of an A body 8.75 stock width. I think 8.8 will only be slightly wider by just over an inch. Does that sound right
 
71scamp78 said:
Just got my 8.8 today where do I get the correct spring perches and shock plates since the tube are bigger than an A body
Click to expand...
I used moroso perches i can get you a part number if you need it. For the shock plates I used standard 8 3/4 plates I just had to wallow the holes out some to get the u bolts to fit.
 
Exactly. I'm putting one in a 69 barracuda. Factory 318 car, isnt worth big bucks.

Are you upgrading to 73 up disc brakes in the front? If so, look for a 2002 lincoln town car donut spare. It's an aluminum rim, is 25" diameter and about 4.5" thick. Fits nice and flat in the spare tire well. Will fit the mopar 73 up disc brakes in front and explorer disc brakes in back. A Spicer 457C universal joint will fit the ford yoke, and mopar driveshaft.

Are you planning to cut down the long end? I shortened the long end tube in mine, to center the pumpkin, and will run two Right side axles.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Exactly. I'm putting one in a 69 barracuda. Factory 318 car, isnt worth big bucks.

Are you upgrading to 73 up disc brakes in the front? Look for a 2002 lincoln town car donut spare. It's an aluminum rim, is 25" diameter and about 4.5" thick. Fits nice and flat in the spare tire well. A Spicer 457C universal joint will fit the ford yoke, and mopar driveshaft.
Click to expand...

Yep bought the whole front disc brake conversion from Dr. DIFF . Even got new upper controls arms and new spindles. It's should stop well with disc on all four corners. I got 11.75 disc up front and I believe the Rea ford is 11.2. So the pinion yoke above is what I need. I'd like a 1350 yoke with the straps
 
I just used a Spicer 457C U joint since it fits stock mopar driveshaft, and stock ford explorer yoke. Not sure what that equates to.
 
Here are the union parts I used. And I had my original driveshaft shortened 2 inches i believe. The local shop did it for me. They also installed new u-joint sandblasted and painted everything for like 150 bucks.

Screenshot_20210320-220717_eBay.jpg


Screenshot_20210320-220640_eBay.jpg


Screenshot_20210320-220548_eBay.jpg
 
May go that route if I can't find a 1350 yoke but I think they do. Also I will need a whole new drive shaft made I don't have one. Since I will have to have one made may as well go with the big joint
 
I did have to file and sand a little to get them to set perfectly flat when I welded them. There was maybe an 1/8 gap. But everything when your fabricating has to be "fitted" lol
 
Haven't posted an update recently. I am waiting on a trans filter that I ordered two weeks ago. So I can put the transmission back together and try out the new gasket hopefully it won't leak. I went with the lube locker gasket well see how it works. Also got the drivers side floor finished this afternoon finally!

20210928_174803.jpg
 
I was having some clearance issues with the drivers side down pipe hitting the kickdown linkage. So I got the bright idea id use the factory downpipe off the white ram truck. So I cut the bolts and cut the pipe about right in the middle of the crossover and it fit perfectly. It comes out right beside the transmission. Im gonna weld a flange on it so I can have a place to remove the downpipe just incase I need to replace the starter or anything like that. But it worked im actually a little surprised.

20211015_184833.jpg


20211015_184917.jpg


20211015_184924.jpg
 
I did the same thing running manifolds on my exhaust, I put a header flange in to make working on the car easier.

pnK7OA.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top