My plans for my 69 Dart Swinger 340

[gtgto]

1.) Add power steering.
2.) Add front disc brakes.
3.) Add rear air shocks.
4.) Adjust front ride height up maybe 2 inches.
What order should I do all this? I know the front will need an alignment after the ride height adjustment and probably after the disc brake conversation. Any suggestions on kits to do this

Love your Dart. I would steer clear of air shocks for sure. I had them on a car in a previous life and they did make the car look cool for the time but the car rode like crap. Big old L60x15's on the back and every damn bump I hit especially turning the *** end wanted to come around.

 

[Wvbuzzmaster]

Picture of my 72 Duster as I described in post #13. Kinda hard to see all the rake because I held the camera with the lines of the car, but the rake is there. Pretty certain this is the stance you are looking for on your 69 Dart. I know my Duster is not in clean mode but I do drive it and not just pavement, some roads are gravel. And guess what, that’s what the car was built to do, use it wherever. Just got back from taking the car out for an errand, a joyride, and this picture. And it got several thumbs ups while out so great day.

 

[70dart340]

My mistake. Yes you're correct and I'm mistaken. Disc brakes were standard equipment and power assist was an option. The two I had were power assisted. Memory not what it o

My mistake. Yes you're correct and I'm mistaken. Disc brakes were standard equipment and power assist was an option. The two I had were power assisted. Memory not what it once was.

All good, Brother. I've been corrected by FABO family members many times over the years. I try to learn from my mistakes and move on. We appreciate your input.

 

[FlamesAreWicked]

I plan to do a bit of a raked look on my 68. I’m gonna go with SS leaf springs to achieve it. I’m also gonna gonna go with manual steering as well. There are some aftermarket brake kits that give ya the option to keep the small bolt patten but big bolt is also readily available

 

[Wvbuzzmaster]

I plan to do a bit of a raked look on my 68. I’m gonna go with SS leaf springs to achieve it. I’m also gonna gonna go with manual steering as well. There are some aftermarket brake kits that give ya the option to keep the small bolt patten but big bolt is also readily available

Avoid SS leaf springs if not a drag car, as the SS leafs are not equal construction left and right and therefore not symmetrical. Additionally, avoid Mancini leaf springs as one of the two SS leaf springs I bought from them the main leaf arched the wrong way the last 4 inches. When I raised this concern to Mancini they said “We have sold hundreds of these and you are the only one with this complaint so it’s not a defect, therefore if you want to return them you pay return shipping.” I opted not to spend $100 in shipping to get $220 refund. Not long after that another member had a problem with Mancini SS springs during install due to that bad main leaf in one of the spring packs bending the wrong way the last 4 inches. So I shipped him the good one of my SS set and he was good to go using matched good leaf springs, basically a 340 HD spring set at that point. In other words, call ESPO for good leaf springs you buy once and Mancini if you want to waste money on junk.

 

[FlamesAreWicked]

Avoid SS leaf springs if not a drag car, as the SS leafs are not equal construction left and right and therefore not symmetrical. Additionally, avoid Mancini leaf springs as one of the two SS leaf springs I bought from them the main leaf arched the wrong way the last 4 inches. When I raised this concern to Mancini they said “We have sold hundreds of these and you are the only one with this complaint so it’s not a defect, therefore if you want to return them you pay return shipping.” I opted not to spend $100 in shipping to get $220 refund. Not long after that another member had a problem with Mancini SS springs during install due to that bad main leaf in one of the spring packs bending the wrong way the last 4 inches. So I shipped him the good one of my SS set and he was good to go using matched good leaf springs, basically a 340 HD spring set at that point. In other words, call ESPO for good leaf springs you buy once and Mancini if you want to waste money on junk.

I was just gonna use the mopar performance ones.. possibly two left side springs since the pass side will be a little higher than the drivers by design.

 

[Will_H#24]

Avoid SS leaf springs if not a drag car, as the SS leafs are not equal construction left and right and therefore not symmetrical. Additionally, avoid Mancini leaf springs as one of the two SS leaf springs I bought from them the main leaf arched the wrong way the last 4 inches. When I raised this concern to Mancini they said “We have sold hundreds of these and you are the only one with this complaint so it’s not a defect, therefore if you want to return them you pay return shipping.” I opted not to spend $100 in shipping to get $220 refund. Not long after that another member had a problem with Mancini SS springs during install due to that bad main leaf in one of the spring packs bending the wrong way the last 4 inches. So I shipped him the good one of my SS set and he was good to go using matched good leaf springs, basically a 340 HD spring set at that point. In other words, call ESPO for good leaf springs you buy once and Mancini if you want to waste money on junk.

I checked on Summits site and the reviews stated they you would also need new forward mounts with the SS springs.

 

[Will_H#24]

Question #1

Do you want to keep small bolt pattern or go to large bolt pattern?

Question #2 why air shocks?

If I go with the large bolt pattern won't I have to change out the rear axles?

 

[FlamesAreWicked]

If I go with the large bolt pattern won't I have to change out the rear axles?

You can or have them drilled for the large pattern.

 

[Will_H#24]

Picture of my 72 Duster as I described in post #13. Kinda hard to see all the rake because I held the camera with the lines of the car, but the rake is there. Pretty certain this is the stance you are looking for on your 69 Dart. I know my Duster is not in clean mode but I do drive it and not just pavement, some roads are gravel. And guess what, that’s what the car was built to do, use it wherever. Just got back from taking the car out for an errand, a joyride, and this picture. And it got several thumbs ups while out so great day.

View attachment 1716305331

That's the look I want. Maybe not quite as high in the front.

 

[Wvbuzzmaster]

That's the look I want. Maybe not quite as high in the front.

You can stick with a 14” rallye wheel on 11” mopar disc brakes I believe, because they are steel. I wanted aluminum rims and those often run into clearance issues with the caliper so I went to 15” and then was railroaded to a 26” tall tire because tire manufacturer options. No regret but had I chosen factory steel wheel options 14” would have been a choice I believe.

You can keep your rear bolt pattern and only change the front wheels for the new disc brake pattern, as the 14” rallye wheels were available in both patterns. And it won’t matter because if running two different tire sizes you aren’t rotating anyway. Only issue would be the spare.

 

[nckennyb]

The Wilwood Dynalite Kit I used on my 69 Dart has both 4" and 4.5" bolt patterns. I'm running 14" aftermarket SBP wheels.

 

[mbaird]

I have a 68 Barracuda with 4 wheel discs and power steering.
I also have a 69 340 4sp Swinger with manual steering and manual drum brakes.
While the Barracuda does stop quicker it’s not enough difference for the hassle. Of course I don’t drive like a lunatic (unless Im on an open back road and want to do a burnout) . For the Dart I used a smaller diameter master cylinder and larger wheel cylinders . It stops really nice with moderate effort. I would not do discs again .

As for the air shocks… they will transmit all the force onto the shock bolts because they become semi solid when pumped up . They offer no ride control . My recommendation is to get a set of hipo springs . They will be stiff at first but soften over time. I have the Mancini ones on the Barracuda and SS springs on the Dart . It rides fine as well but I used two off the same springs vs the biased set sold by the pair which is stiffer on the passenger side for weight transfer while launching a high HP car on the strip .

 

[AJ/FormS]

1.) Add power steering.
2.) Add front disc brakes.
3.) Add rear air shocks.
4.) Adjust front ride height up maybe 2 inches.
What order should I do all this? I know the front will need an alignment after the ride height adjustment and probably after the disc brake conversation. Any suggestions on kits to do this?

View attachment 1716305046

You know the combo demands more traction, especially in the sideways direction. And if you don't do it first, there's a good chance you'll slide that Dart right into the only hydro-pole within 300 yds, on the maiden voyage.
And besides, it will be the biggest expense.

To that end, if I may be so bold, I would attack the rear of the car first. This combo needs mini-tubs for big fat 15" rear tires, on a narrowed rear end with relocated HD aftermarket springs, slapper bars, AND yes, Air shocks; the kind that are actual dampers inside bags, for the very same reason we all did it in hi-school, which was;
1) at minimum pressure you get reasonable handling as a DD, and
2) you get the Ricky-Racer look on the weekend. Just make sure you leave an inch of suspension travel, so you don't hammer your shock mounts, off.

Next up for me is tricked-up power-steering box, a Saginaw pump, and a fat-rimmed, small-diameter steering wheel. I recommend 1.03 bars, a anti-roll bar, and HD adjustable front shocks. For me this was a no brainer for my driving style which seemed to be from one wipe-out to the next, for the longest time....... until I fixed the back end (I didn't do it first/my mistake).

I'd do the stoppers last, cuz the 10" factory drums are just fine at legal roadspeeds; and my choice is the KH 4-pot factory stuff. It's engineered for Mopars and has just flat worked on my combo, for decades with no fuss. and yes, I did put a booster on it, from an early F-body.
Oh wait, I did all that on my 68 Barracuda, lol.
Well except for, in my case, my factory tubs were already big-enough for 295s.
235/60-14s on the front look bigger than they are, but keep the front end where it belongs for non-competition car, in the which, your 340 should have enough power for rear-steer.. Get the hang of that with a clutch, 11.3 Scr, and you almost won't need the brakes anymore ............

BTW
The right air-pressure for 295/50-15s on tens is ~24psi. Which rides like a dream, until they are spinning,

 

[Will_H#24]

You know the combo demands more traction, especially in the sideways direction. And if you don't do it first, there's a good chance you'll slide that Dart right into the only hydro-pole within 300 yds, on the maiden voyage.
And besides, it will be the biggest expense.

To that end, if I may be so bold, I would attack the rear of the car first. This combo needs mini-tubs for big fat 15" rear tires, on a narrowed rear end with relocated HD aftermarket springs, slapper bars, AND yes, Air shocks; the kind that are actual dampers inside bags, for the very same reason we all did it in hi-school, which was;
1) at minimum pressure you get reasonable handling as a DD, and
2) you get the Ricky-Racer look on the weekend. Just make sure you leave an inch of suspension travel, so you don't hammer your shock mounts, off.

Next up for me is tricked-up power-steering box, a Saginaw pump, and a fat-rimmed, small-diameter steering wheel. I recommend 1.03 bars, a anti-roll bar, and HD adjustable front shocks. For me this was a no brainer for my driving style which seemed to be from one wipe-out to the next, for the longest time....... until I fixed the back end (I didn't do it first/my mistake).

I'd do the stoppers last, cuz the 10" factory drums are just fine at legal roadspeeds; and my choice is the KH 4-pot factory stuff. It's engineered for Mopars and has just flat worked on my combo, for decades with no fuss. and yes, I did put a booster on it, from an early F-body.
Oh wait, I did all that on my 68 Barracuda, lol.
Well except for, in my case, my factory tubs were already big-enough for 295s.
235/60-14s on the front look bigger than they are, but keep the front end where it belongs for non-competition car, in the which, your 340 should have enough power for rear-steer.. Get the hang of that with a clutch, 11.3 Scr, and you almost won't need the brakes anymore ............

BTW
The right air-pressure for 295/50-15s on tens is ~24psi. Which rides like a dream, until they are spinning,

In my dreams lol!

 

[mbaird]

You know the combo demands more traction, especially in the sideways direction. And if you don't do it first, there's a good chance you'll slide that Dart right into the only hydro-pole within 300 yds, on the maiden voyage.
And besides, it will be the biggest expense.

To that end, if I may be so bold, I would attack the rear of the car first. This combo needs mini-tubs for big fat 15" rear tires, on a narrowed rear end with relocated HD aftermarket springs, slapper bars, AND yes, Air shocks; the kind that are actual dampers inside bags, for the very same reason we all did it in hi-school, which was;
1) at minimum pressure you get reasonable handling as a DD, and
2) you get the Ricky-Racer look on the weekend. Just make sure you leave an inch of suspension travel, so you don't hammer your shock mounts, off.

Next up for me is tricked-up power-steering box, a Saginaw pump, and a fat-rimmed, small-diameter steering wheel. I recommend 1.03 bars, a anti-roll bar, and HD adjustable front shocks. For me this was a no brainer for my driving style which seemed to be from one wipe-out to the next, for the longest time....... until I fixed the back end (I didn't do it first/my mistake).

I'd do the stoppers last, cuz the 10" factory drums are just fine at legal roadspeeds; and my choice is the KH 4-pot factory stuff. It's engineered for Mopars and has just flat worked on my combo, for decades with no fuss. and yes, I did put a booster on it, from an early F-body.
Oh wait, I did all that on my 68 Barracuda, lol.
Well except for, in my case, my factory tubs were already big-enough for 295s.
235/60-14s on the front look bigger than they are, but keep the front end where it belongs for non-competition car, in the which, your 340 should have enough power for rear-steer.. Get the hang of that with a clutch, 11.3 Scr, and you almost won't need the brakes anymore ............

BTW
The right air-pressure for 295/50-15s on tens is ~24psi. Which rides like a dream, until they are spinning,

I run a 408 W2 (over 500 hp and torque ) with a 4sp and 3.91s in my 69 Swinger . SS springs and a rear sway bar .
Tires are 215/70-14 for daily driving and 255/60-15 MT Drag radials for when I fell rambunctious or racing .
I have no problem with traction while normal daily driving with the 215/70-14s ( it will roast them if I mash it..) and plenty of traction with the MTs unless I bring the rpm’s up past 3k on launch . But I made sure the rear was sitting correctly and not to high .
Pics taken today.

 

[Swinger 340]

I thought the 340 cars came with disc brakes? I know my '70 Swinger 340 came with the K-H 4 piston discs.

Mine in photo, came with power 10" Power drum brakes all around. Last year I installed a K-H Disc brakes from a 70 Dart 340 Swinger. I needed more stopping power with all the new cars on the road today. My car has a nice ride, with a set of SS springs. No air shocks. A light car, with close ratio manual steering, you don't need power steering.