My Temp Gauge and Fuel Gauge aren't working...

-
edb_app

edb_app

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
169
Reaction score
0
Location
Seattle, WA
Any suggestions on how to fix this and if it is an easy fix or do I have to somehow get into the fuel tank to fix???

Could it possibly be a fuse??? I can post pics of the fuse box if needed.

Thanks in advance for you assistance!!!
 
Fuel gauge can be a few different things. The small 3-prong voltage reg on the back of the instrument cluster could be the problem. Could also be the small ground strap that should be cliped on the fuel line at the sender. It might be the sender itself. Check for power at the sender wire. I think it will be a low pulsing voltage. The voltage will be turning on and off due to the regulator. If voltage is present it will be the ground strap or the sender. If the strap is there the sending unit is bad. As for the temp gauge ground the sending unit wire with a ground wire to the battery. If the gauge sweeps from one side to the other the problem will be the sender. If it does not sweep could be the wire going to the gauge from the sender or the gauge itself. Hope this helps. Tod
 
Sorry it could also be a break in the fiber circuit board on the back of the cluster also
 
There is a little voltage regulator that is like a little box with 3 prongs coming out of it that goes between the 2 gauges. Reach up there and take it out or replace it so you don't fry your gauges.
 
So would I have to take the dash off to check all of this? I am new to owning my 75 duster... so any details help... thanks for the prompt response!
 
You can reach up there and pull it out or you can drop the column a little, pull the cluster out and replace the dash lights while it is out as well.
 
360scamp said:
You can reach up there and pull it out or you can drop the column a little, pull the cluster out and replace the dash lights while it is out as well.
Click to expand...

Okay... I will try that... once again if the rain ever STOPS!!!!! haha. Is it best just to take off the instrument cluster than to remove the whole dash... I am going to submit pics of all the random things hanging out of my dash that I can't find where they go... and maybe someone can help me with that too!
 
well dont feel bad, none of my guges work...well the ammeter works. But today i found that someone before me used trim nails as cotter pins throughout the whole front suspension.
 
gregs75duster said:
well dont feel bad, none of my guges work...well the ammeter works. But today i found that someone before me used trim nails as cotter pins throughout the whole front suspension.
Click to expand...

WOW! I know this may sound silly but what is a ammeter? The only one that works is the Alternator Voltage... and someone has put in a Water Temp Gauge that leads into the engine bay... so those are the only two I have!
 
"alternator voltage" is actually an ammeter gauge that shows the output of the alternator, not voltage. BTW, it's the only gauge that works on my Demon too!!
 
Have you guys tried the "build your own voltage limiter" fix?

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

My ammetere was the only gauge working in my '67. The dash lights and blinker indicators didn't even work. A "new" voltage limiter was going to be almost $40! I paid less than 10 at my local Radio Shack, made my own limiter / regulator, mounted it in the stock position, and VIOLA! All my gauges work better than ever, my lights shine on, and I can tell which one of my blinkers is flashing again.
I even clipped the prongs off of my old voltage limiter and soldered the wires onto them, so that they could plug into the stock position and I wasn't soldering directly onto my vintage dash.
This is easily the best mod I've done. Cheap and easy, yielding superb results.
 
Anyone ever tried building your own 5 volt limiter? Here's the link to a site that explains it:

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

My gauges quit working, then the lights quit lighting, and finally the blinker indicators wouldn't even light up. A new voltage regulator (limiter) was going to run me about $40! I found this site, spent less than 10 bucks at Radio Shack, and got to soldering.
The whole job took about 30 minutes. I mounted the new components in stock locations, even clipping the prongs off of the old limiter and soldering the wires to them - that way they plug into the board instead of being soldered to it!
Re-installed the instrument cluster, and VIOLA! Everything works again. While I was in I cleaned up the copper runs in the circuit board with some fine sand-paper, tightened all of the instrument clips, oiled the speedo union, and replaced all the light bulbs.
By far the best mod I've ever done. Cheap, easy, and immediate results.
 
Crud....
Didn't mean to double post. Wasn't aware that moderators sometime review replies before posting them, and thought I didn't submit the first response.
Please forgive me, I'm new!
 
challyrtse said:
Crud....
Didn't mean to double post. Wasn't aware that moderators sometime review replies before posting them, and thought I didn't submit the first response.
Please forgive me, I'm new!
Click to expand...

I have done it as well... due to my newness, but WELCOME... haha... its okay!

That sounds simple enough, I have got so many great ideas here... I will try anything!!!!
 
I'm getting ready to pull my instrument cluster out today. I hope the ground is just loose on the voltage limiter. If not, I will shell out the bucks for a new one. Going to replace all the bulbs while I have it out.
 
All new bulbs is a good plan. There are a few more maintanance moves to make while you're in there. Lube speedo cable, replace wiper linkage pivots, re attach falling insulation, etc..
I take my time , I take the center bezel out too, and do everything I can think of, inckuding clean and lube air door controller and cables.
Have fun :)
 
RedFish said:
All new bulbs is a good plan. There are a few more maintanance moves to make while you're in there. Lube speedo cable, replace wiper linkage pivots, re attach falling insulation, etc..
I take my time , I take the center bezel out too, and do everything I can think of, inckuding clean and lube air door controller and cables.
Have fun :)
Click to expand...

I planned on lubing the cable as the speedo hops around at speed. Doubt I will get to the wiper seals, although I have them. Also, control cables for heater/defrost are all screwed up. Another day, another project.

"Have fun"...yeah, like getting a root canal is fun.
 
That wasn't bad at all. Took about 30 minutes and the instrument cluster is out. Found out why my dash lights are out, about half of them are missing, socket and all!! No turn signals or high beam indicator either.

Seems like the ones that are left only have one "ear" left on the socket and don't fit tight against the circuit board. I did a search here and found these are available through NAPA.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...501&Description=Instrument+Panel+Light+Socket

Does anyone know if these are a direct replacement before I drive all the way across town?!?
 
I did a search here and found these are available through NAPA. [URL said:
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=ECH&PartNumber=LS6501&Description=Instrument+Panel+Light+Socket[/URL]

Does anyone know if these are a direct replacement before I drive all the way across town?!?
Click to expand...
Take a sample with you. NAPA stocks a couple different sizes.
 
Just so you guys are clear... An ammeter measures Current in Amperes (or Amps) whereas a voltmeter measure Voltage in Volts. Older Mopars all had ammeters in them to let the owner know if there was a positive charge of current going to the battery or a negative charge of current being drawn from the battery. Newer Mopars used a voltmeter to simply monitor the battery voltage. If it dropped below approx. 12vdc you pretty much knew you weren't charging properly. The problem with older ammeter systems is that they are in series with everything else and if any part of the series system opens or becomes resistive then you get a voltage drop (usually seen as dim headlights) so that is why Chrysler used a voltmeter in later years and did not run all the current through the firewall and up to the instrument cluster.
 
Slappy said:
As for the temp gauge ground the sending unit wire with a ground wire to the battery. If the gauge sweeps from one side to the other the problem will be the sender. If it does not sweep could be the wire going to the gauge from the sender or the gauge itself. Hope this helps. Tod
Click to expand...

My 74 Dart temperature and fuel gauge also stopped working. The sending unit is new and the ground strap is on. I am sure I can locate the problem with the fuel gauge since I have done it before. I sure could use some help with the temperature gauge not working. Slappy said to "ground the sending unit wire to the battery." Is that the wire that plugs into the front of the block near the thermostat? My 74 is a slant six.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top