N2o Users?

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JoeDust451

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Who out there is on the bottle, wondering how you have your tune, how much are you spraying, How much are you knocking off your ET?
 
I ran it on my iron headed 340 it would run 7.75 off the bottle in the 1/8 mile and about 7.00 on the bottle at about 100mph in 1/8 mile. I think it was 150 shot I tried a bigger nitrous shot but it was not worth any more HP with my engine. Its been about 5 years since then so I don't remember all the specifics.
 
Havent sprayed in years. But it is very combination specific as far as gains and kits. Th equickest way to drop between .5-.8 on a 12 second car is a 175 plate system with a dedicated fuel system and some timing changes. This wont lose much when running off the bottle. When you have to go faster, more stuff becomes less of a compromise and you need a convertor with a balloon plate built for the bottle, camshaft changes, etc.
 
my plans with the next motor is for nitrous...there actually seem to be quite a few nitrous haters on this site (and in general everywhere too)...i guess people cant understand that just because the power is coming out of a bottle instead of a hairdryer its still legit (maybe because it bugs em when they lose?) lol

nonetheless, interesting to hear mopar nitrous combos...not too many that ive seen
 
mshred said:
my plans with the next motor is for nitrous...there actually seem to be quite a few nitrous haters on this site (and in general everywhere too)...i guess people cant understand that just because the power is coming out of a bottle instead of a hairdryer its still legit (maybe because it bugs em when they lose?) lol

nonetheless, interesting to hear mopar nitrous combos...not too many that ive seen
Click to expand...

I used to hate guys that ran the bottle, but that was when i was racing, as a spectator i love watching them, always did, always will, Now i have no quams about it, may the best man win, no matter what he has, nitrous is alot more common now-a-days, its cheap & effective :-D.
 
I will by running a kit in my car when it's built. I am installing a 5.7 hemi and I'll be running a 150 shot I ran it on my ram for about a year and it was a blast. I'm using the same motor and kit out of the truck. I'll have the details in a few months.
 
i am going to run a 150 shot im thinking it will push me into the 10s. 340 block
Work done: O-ringed, tubed for roller cam, oil gallies enlarged, bored to 4.07(.030 over) and honed with deck plates by Herb McCandless.

340 steel crank
Prepared by Lunati, stroked .110 to 3.42 stroke and balanced to 8000 rpms

340 steel rods
Prepped by Lunati. Hand picked set. All are within .001 of each other in length. Bronze bushed, balanced and lightened.and shot peened.

Heads
340 X heads with 2.02 intake valves and 1.60 exhausts. Double springs for .700 lift cam, Maximum porting on intake and exhaust ports.Ports are 63cc combustion chambers. they flow 260 to 270 cfm

Pistons
Venolia lightweight forged pistons. Uses dykes top ring, 1/16 2nd ring and standard tension oil rings. Weight is 510 grams.11.3 comp

Intake
Holley Strip Dominator ported to match heads.the carb is a bigs 950 stage 5

Camshaft
Cam Motion roller 269 275 @ .050 and .631 lift with 1.5 rocker Valves set on .024 .028
RPM range 4500-7500. Cam is degreed in at 104 deg centerline.

Other Parts
High volume Melling oil pump, Comp Cams roller lifters, Crane 1.5 roller rockers(gold), Fluid Balancer, windage tray, Cloyes double roller timing set. SCE copper head gaskets(.060). Tall valve covers for use with roller rockers. Moroso 8 qt deep sump oil pan. Bronze cam gear for use with roller cams.i plan on shifting at 7200.this is going in a 72 dart with a 727 trans, 4900 stal,8.75 rear with 4.88 gears.i hoping for low 11s on motor and with the 150 shot mid 10s.i may have to change gears to run nos in the 1/4 but i think in the 1/8 i will be ok
 
JMO butI hope that car is way lightened. I dont think unless it's less than 3200lbs with you in it that it will run those ETs. I'd like to see another full point of compression at least (preferably 1 1/2 points), another .050-.080 lift, upgrade the rockers, and an intake like the M1 with a 2" open spacer or the Victor Jr. At 3400lbs in a street/strip car you need to make 600hp at the crank to go 11.0s N/A. That's asking a lot of 270cfm heads and a roller that will end up .610 at the valve. You need to get the valves open to .700 if the heads flow that high and the rockers will not take that much spring pressure.
 
100 HP squirt gets me from 14.0 to 12.8 seconds. A MSD module dials my timing back from 34 to 30 degrees. I like this set up because it allows me to run a mild, torquey cam for the street and still have fun at the track.
 
Back in the late 70's early 80's we didn't know all the "details"...
Ran a stock type engine (cast pistons) with a NOS brand 100 shot plate.
Before- the car (duster) ran 13.70's at 102 for a year, week after week, drive in, run.
After- 12.60's at 110, drive in run, drive home,,3.55 gear, capped up, street tires
....always ran 7psi fuel pressure...got about 7-8 full runs per bottle.
no electronics, just mashed a button when I left. Never any problems
Engine came out in 86 and is still on a stand over in the corner...
 
Thanks, Cuda69, those are some nice gains on 100 shot, what pills are you running in the plate? Mines on the mild side as well, are you doing this on pump gas?
 
mrbill00 said:
Back in the late 70's early 80's we didn't know all the "details"...
Ran a stock type engine (cast pistons) with a NOS brand 100 shot plate.
Before- the car (duster) ran 13.70's at 102 for a year, week after week, drive in, run.
After- 12.60's at 110, drive in run, drive home,,3.55 gear, capped up, street tires
....always ran 7psi fuel pressure...got about 7-8 full runs per bottle.
no electronics, just mashed a button when I left. Never any problems
Engine came out in 86 and is still on a stand over in the corner...
Click to expand...

I'm at 12.5s right now. I'll see how she does in the 1/8, i would hope it'll run a 7.4 at around 94.
 
moper said:
JMO butI hope that car is way lightened. I dont think unless it's less than 3200lbs with you in it that it will run those ETs. I'd like to see another full point of compression at least (preferably 1 1/2 points), another .050-.080 lift, upgrade the rockers, and an intake like the M1 with a 2" open spacer or the Victor Jr. At 3400lbs in a street/strip car you need to make 600hp at the crank to go 11.0s N/A. That's asking a lot of 270cfm heads and a roller that will end up .610 at the valve. You need to get the valves open to .700 if the heads flow that high and the rockers will not take that much spring pressure.
Click to expand...

this same set up pushed a 65 cuda to 11.15 that was the same weight as my dart.what times do you see it runing?
 
joedust i know you use the 2800 stall and either 3.73 or 3.90 gears right? i think it will pick of fairly well with n20.
 
I too think it'll do well, as long as it hooks & i get into the nitrous early to drop the 60ft. good, With an NX 100 shot my 97 camaro dropped a solid 1.3 & 14-15 mph & it was a 6 sp., so i had to shift lol, 60ft. went from a 1.98 NA too a 1.80 on a damn near back too back run, the car ran 13.5s @ 100 NA, & my only full N2o pass it ran a 12.01 @ 115, it was a stock LB LT1 with just bolt-ons & a 9" with 4.11s, centerforce clutch, car weight about 3500 with me, the dart is lighter then that. I know at least .3+ was from the 60ft. drop.

Yes, i have a PTC 2800 with balloon plate, 3.73 gears, i'm only going to run the 1/8 mile, my drum brakes don't like me now trapping 105 lol.
 
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