I'm wanting to do a ground up 340 build in the near future and could use some advice. Looking to build a hard running street engine but still use pump gas. Will be going in an A-Body, with auto transmission. The only engine componets I have right now is the standard bore block and forged crank, both are in good shape. Block will need bored .30 to clean up, crank should turn .10-.10. Need advice on pistons, rods, cam, and lifters all of which I will need to buy yet. The plan for the heads are Eddys and an Eddy intake to go with it. I have a rebuilt Holley 3310 carb that I was thinking of using, but I want the bottom end as tough as possible in case I go with a NOS kit or superchager someday. So for starters I need a recipe for a hard as nails bottom end with top quality components. Any help will be appreciated...thanks. :salut:
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Need 340 Build Advice
- Thread starter Akidagin
- Start date
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BJR Racing
Well-Known Member
I would go with a set of KB pistons (10.1) with a set of 308 heads over the eddys for more heat on the street, iron will also give better driveability with a carb. As for the cam I would go with something like a extreme energy from comp cams like a .507/.510 lift, I believe this is the 284 cam. As for the rods get a good set of early 360 rods as they are the same as the 340s and very durable. We ran a 250 shot on them without any problems. The most important part is the rod bolts as this is the weakest link in the engine. The 3310 will work fine with some mods done to it. Then just make sure all the machining is done properly including the balance.
BJR Racing
BJR Racing
moper
Well-Known Member
If you're looking for a street 340, I'd buy new rods if your future includes either a blower, or NOS. If you had factory rods, I might suggest using them, but remember what's in there if you want to hammer on it later. But having to locate and pay for cores, then buying good bolts, and having them redone, will get you to within $100 of a good set of new Eagle H beams that are far stronger. Run a forged piston if you ever want to run the power adder. Good ones arent too bad $$ wise. Your budget really needs to be determined too. Can you build with these parts now? As BJR said, iron will run better (IMO) than aluminum will on a mostly stock engine. But, if you're dead set on running aluminum heads, you should design them into the build. More static compression, tight quench distance, cam choice will all be affected. Also, Edelbrocks are the low end aluminum. They will work well, but if it were me, I'd be looking into running a set of the MP Magnum R/T heads. I havent used them personally yet, but I've been impressed with what I hear about them. Another thought is, You could build your 340 now and use iron Magnum heads for the time being, and run a thicker head gasket to control the static ratio until you can invest in aluminum. Std Magnum (5.2/5.9L factory heads) will flow plenty for now, are cheap (once you find a set that's not cracked...dont pay until you get a warranty saying they will provide you with 2 good ones, and good means checked by a machine shop), run 1.6 rockers, and can be re-drilled cheaply to fit any LA style intake. All kinds of ideas..lol. If you have to buy rods and pistons anyway, there's always going bigger inches too.
Thanks for some good ideas! What about stroking the 340 to a 416? Anyone done this or had any experience with stroked engines? A few people have told me to go the stroker route for good street power. What could I expect from a 416 stroker horse power wise? Is there a recommended kit?
moper
Well-Known Member
All kinds of kits. as much or as little power as you'd like. most important, crazy torque. Like 500+ pound feet from a pump gas engine at 3000 rpm, that idles at 750rpm like a kitten. depending on the top end, going that route is about $500-1200 more than a well built standard displacement.
BoredandStroked
Well-Known Member
Speed-O-Motive offers a kit for the 416. Hughes Engines, Hensley Performance, tons upon tons upon tons offer it. Only problem that i have seen is that most only come with a cast crank so it will only be good up to 550-600 hp. I dont know for sure but some manufactures will work with you and if they offer a 4340 steel or any other kind of forged crank they might put it in the 416 kit. I dunno for sure but you can try it. The cost of a forged 4.00 inch crank will probably be in the 800 dollar range. You get what u pay for so dont worry. Here is a lil hint I learned. 4340 steel is just as light as aluminum but it is also stronger. 5190 (correct me if i am wrong) isnt as strong or as light as 4340 but hey it is at least forged. Just depends on how much power you want to make. See ya later!
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