Need /6 help

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HemiPar

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Hey all. Well after some thinking, reading and bill fighting, I am wanting to rebuild my / and KEEP IT IN MY DART. :cheers: Yes, I said keep it. I was thinking of a 360swap but since have changed my mind. I do have a few issues with it right now.
I went to change the valve cover gasket, went to the parts store told them it was a 71 Dart with the 225. Got my gasket, went home and it was the wrong one. So I took the cover with me to exchange the gasket. There was an "older MoPar guy" there and he said that it looked like a newer cover. So we looked up a 83 Ram truck with a 225 and it was the gasket I needed. So my first question is, how can I tell what year the moter is?

Right now it is not running well. It will start right up but has gray smoke and smells like fuel. I rebuild the 1920 carb thinking that was the issue. Still smokes and smells. I have had people tell me to pull and read the plugs. Although I have fiddled with cars for a long time never learned to read the plugs. What would I be looking for?
I am looking at getting another / so I can rebuild one and still be able to drive the car till its done. So soon I will be looking for a parts list for the build. I want it to be streetable, will not see the track just street. I want it just quick enough to have fun with but still get "good" gas mileage. Mostly drive at cruises.

So what advise you folks are willing to share with me?
 
Just some quick things to mention.

First, i would like to throw out some simple stuff that others might be able to elaborate more on. My slant was smoking about 6 months after i got it. Ultimately it was poorly tuned carb. After you rebuilt it, did you turn the little rich/lean screw? and set the idle at the right level? If you have already checked that. Then you may need a real rebuild. It might be rings or valve seals.

But you mentioned the exhaust smells like gas. So i'm thinking a rich mix might be the culprit.

As for the sparkplugs. Black and gunked up might mean oil leak. If its black and wet, its burning rich. If its white and crusty, then its running lean. It should be brown (or a little black or a little bit white). If its clearly white or clearly black, thats bad.

Feel free to correct guys, i'm no expert.
 
Well I rebuild the carb, for tuning I screwed the mix screw in all the way then backed out 2 turns. I set the idle. I did pull the plugs and they are black and wet. I did not have time to tune the carb more but I hope to get out there tonight. If I cant get adjusted it will just have to wait till I rebuild and get a new one.
I know it needs new valve seals but I will be rebuilding the / this summer so I will wait on that. Now I see that the rear main is leaking. I guess thats what happens when you start to drive a car that has been sitting for a long time.
Thanks for the suggestions. Keep 'em comming guys.
 
sounds like it's burning rich,or was...change out the plugs and see how it runs after that but if you still smell the gas it could be about three diffrent things 1 choke sticking or set to rich 2 float level set wrong or 3 needs new float due to saturation(phenolic resin type float) or leaking(brass float) take out the oil dipstick and smell it if it smells like gasoline then change the oil and filter immediately and repair the carb before driving it again. Hope this is helpful
 
Thanks Waggin. I will start on that (I hope) tonight.
Next thing before I change the oil. Not sure if its just leaking from the oil pan or the rear main. How hard is it to change the rear main while motor is in the car? I am trying to keep it running till I get another / rebuild, not sure how long that will be. Thanks again for replies.
 
What ignition is in the motor? Does it still have points in it? Have they been replaced? Sometimes an overly rich condition is nothing more than weak ignition.
 
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