need advice: 440 in a Duster

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URDUST73

time for the COLD wrench!
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I am sure there is some info somewhere but have been having trouble finding it on here. What all is needed to drop a 440/727 into a 1973 Duster? How does the K-Frame need to be modified? Will any changes need to be made to the rear end to handle it? Can someone point me in right direction please. Thanks for the help.
 
Start off by talking to these guys http://www.engine-swaps.com/. They make the mounts and headers to do the job. Starting from the front you'll need a minimum 3 core rad and try to get one with a fan shroud, may need thicker torsion bars depending on what you've got now, no power brakes but power steering with Schmacher header, disc brakes up front and at least 10" drums out back, new drive shaft, at least a 8 3/4 rear, sub frame connectors, 2 1/2" to 3" exhaust. I'm sure I forgot something but this will get you started.

Terry
 
You'll find a lot of information here as well as the parts to do the swap regardless of which k-member you have.

http://www.engine-swaps.com/

Other things you'll need to consider upgrading are: Brakes, suspension, rear end (forget the 7.25).
 
First thing you might consider is -what am I going to use this car for? Is it for the street or strip, does it have to corner or just go in a straight line? When you`ve answered that question then you can proceed with the build. Remember that once you`ve installed a big block in one of these cars that the rest of the car has to be able to keep up. That means upgrading the brakes and suspension as well as the differential,cooling system, exhaust,and finding some way to get all that hp to the pavement. As mentioned Schumacher creative services offer a lot of kits that`ll allow you to install a 440 with most all K-members. Their headers eliminate trying to find the expensive factory bb A-body exhaust manifolds and you`ll need a special oil pan that has a relief in it for the idler arm to swing into. Usually the number 187 or 699 will appear on the pan. HTH , looking forward to progress pictures!
 
Having lived with 2 big block Darts, 68 GTS 383, 69 GTS 440, I would not be inclined to have another. The loud pedal giggle factor didn't outweigh the daily headaches (no stopping or turning to speak of), besides, you can get 440 power out of a /6. Why go through all that? Just my $.02.
 
I find by dropping them from at least 10', they will drop right in. But the trans will ruin the roof and windshield straight away :D.

Truthfully, its a cool combo. But unless you redo the whole car to handle the drivetrain, you sacrifice a lot IMO. Things like chassis stiffeing, cooling and fuel systems, driveshaft, you already have the disc brakes, but power steering makes cruising and parking more fun if your doesnt have it, hood clearance if the engine has the parts to make it taller, kickdown linkages that fit the chassis. It is pretty much all bolt in depending on exh type, but it is more involved when you visualize the whole thing. Of course that's true with any powertrain mods...
 
If you have the 440 and want a ton of torque and a real monster go for it! But as all mentioned above it needs to have the whole package. Especially the brakes and suspension that almost always get over looked.

Even if you went with a stroker small block it would be a monster too, but either way it is a bunch of $$$ but will be really sweet if done the correct way!

I would do it....
 
http://www.bigblockdart.com

This site covers all A body BB installs.
It can be made to handle, as one of the members has a cuda he uses for SCCA racing.
Go check the tech section. It covers all you need to know, with pictures, parts you will need, any tough spots.
My Demon is 440 powered, and I also have a Dart Swinger that is BB powered.
It's really not that hard.
You can e-mail or pm me about it if you would like.
Norm
 
Thanks for all the great info. Originally I was going to build a 360 and put it in. the kid was going to sell it to me for $200. Well then he backed out because his dad wanted it. Then my buddy saw a 440 for sale! It is the complete motor from pan to carb and a 727 tranny all runs great for $900.

this will be mostly for the track but will be driven to cruise-ins and to and from the track not a d/d by any means.

I was already planning on aftermarket fiberglass hood, upgraded headers, suspension, brakes, intake/carb, maybe heads eventually.

The part I was most curious about was modification to the chasis or firewall, drive saft, and if I need to upgrade to an 8 3/4 rear end.

Basically I want a Rowdy *** torque monster that does good in the 1/4 mile.
 
The chassis can use the frame connectors, and I know that from experience.Lol! The firewall presents no problem. You`ll certainly need a good differential like the 8.75 and a driveshaft can be cut from another or made up for your set up. You`ll have a torque monster but without some way of getting the power to the ground you`ll just have a tire fryer.
 
You would probably want to mini-tub it to get some big meats back there to hook up the power. Gotta love a big block A-body. Mike
 
URDUST73
What rear is in the car now? I would think with the 318, if it's original, it should have an 8 3/4 already.
You can use power steering if you want to, I did on my Dart, But it seemed like overkill.
My demon has manual steering and a spool in the back. That car would be tough to park. But it is a strip only car, and works just fine for that.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I ran into some Mopar guys and learned alot from them also. I will check out the rear end. We just got the motor and tranny out.
 
Easy enough to tell if it's an 8 3/4. If it has no cover on the rear facing side, it is what you want.
The 8 3/4 loads the carrier from the front side.
 
It's the 8.25 rearend right now. I am currently looking for the 8.75 or possibly even an aftermarket 8.75 to fit in.
 
If you run a stock to mild 440 you could use the 8 1/4 it is stronger than most people realize. Mopar made plenty of big block cars in the 70's that had 8 1/4's in them (I have one of these cars). These rears also found there way into trucks and vans. The weakest link is the 27 spline axles but if you use street tires they will be weaker than the axles. You can upgrade later to the 8 3/4 but the rear end is the last thing I would change if at all.


Chuck
 
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[/IMG] why tubs? these are 30x9 hoosiers , no tubs here. there has been a little tweaking in front of wheel opening fit the 30 in. tire but a 28 in. works wo. tweaking .
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9" tires don't work at a lot of tracks. I have trouble hooking up with 11.5 x 29.5's with a 10.50 Duster at my home track. The big end can be even worse if you are out of the groove a little.

With a big block car this can be even more of a hassle as the weight over the nose is far more than the rear. My car with the small block and aluminum heads was actually 60 pounds heavier in the rear
 
7172duster
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[/IMG] best time 10.52 @ 126.75 mph with a 1.43 60 ft. Caltrac adjustable bars w caltrac mono springs this car does not spin . It has worked on 8.5 w. 28 tall .still no spin .your car is not set up right ,or the track is not preped correctly. this car does not spin!!
 
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