Need another mechanic tip: lower ball joint studs turning with nuts?

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MRGTX

MRGTX

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The two 15/16 nuts holding the lower ball joint to the spindle are the subject of my current problem.

While these are torqued pretty heavily (110 ft/lb I believe) they’re significantly more difficult to remove when the stud turns right along with the nut.

There’s no obvious way (to me) to stabilize the stud...but I’m hoping that there is a solution that I’m just not aware of.

Is there a trick? Any suggestions are welcome.

0F1BB9F4-9FFB-4957-B86C-C20FDB24B9BB.jpeg
 
Mine don't have studs but rather HH bolts

But if I had your stud problem; there are at least four possible solutions
1) grind the head off the stud, and punch it out
2) tack weld the stud to the spindle
3) heat the nut up cherry red,let it air-cool, then spin it off with an impact.
4) torch the nut off
5) if I absolutely had to save the "stud", I would weld another bolt , or a rod, crosswise across the head of the rivet and use it for a handle.

99) I would not put a stud back in there. On my Barracuda, that bolt is also the stopper and goes in the other way; the bolt-head having a round head, it bangs into the LCA to limit steering angle.IIRC the knuckle is threaded, and the nut is on the disc side. That washer is not supposed to be where it is either, but may have been installed like that, to adjust bump-steer.
 
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If you talking about the ball joint (LBJ), I always put a jack under the ball joint and put enough pressure on the tapered stud (from the bottom) to cause it to jam in the "spindle" taper. Then you can usually turn the nut with no problem. Sometimes you have to put a lot of weight on the jack but eventually the tapered stud will get stuck in the spindle taper.

But your pic has red arrows pointing to the arm that's attached to the spindle???
treblig
 
MRGTX said:
The two 15/16 nuts holding the lower ball joint to the spindle are the subject of my current problem.

While these are torqued pretty heavily (110 ft/lb I believe) they’re significantly more difficult to remove when the stud turns right along with the nut.

There’s no obvious way (to me) to stabilize the stud...but I’m hoping that there is a solution that I’m just not aware of.

Is there a trick? Any suggestions are welcome.

View attachment 1715186194
Click to expand...
Vice grips on the stud, then an impact tool.
 
Mine uses low profile hex head bolts. Why does there appear to be a washer between the spindle and ball joint?
 
67Dart273 said:
Mine uses low profile hex head bolts. Why does there appear to be a washer between the spindle and ball joint?
Click to expand...

I just grabbed that picture from the page for Mancini Racing camber spacer kit.
 
Maybe try grinding the "lead" off a 6 point socket to grip the bolt head.
 
67Dart273 said:
Mine uses low profile hex head bolts. Why does there appear to be a washer between the spindle and ball joint?
Click to expand...

I was researching that when I found this thread. I'm trying to tune my front suspension and can't get negative camber on one side. Someone suggested adding 1/8" washers between the ball joint casting and spindle to tilt the wheel in. I'm thinking about trying it.
 
TJman said:
I was researching that when I found this thread. I'm trying to tune my front suspension and can't get negative camber on one side. Someone suggested adding 1/8" washers between the ball joint casting and spindle to tilt the wheel in. I'm thinking about trying it.
Click to expand...
If that doesn't work you can get ajustable upper control arm, that's what I did. Once you have those on there the adjustment is prettty much limitless!!!
 
Treblig said:
If that doesn't work you can get ajustable upper control arm, that's what I did. Once you have those on there the adjustment is prettty much limitless!!!
Click to expand...

I was thinking about that, but the only ones I like the look of are from SPC and kinda pricey. What kind did you go with?
 
TJman said:
I was thinking about that, but the only ones I like the look of are from SPC and kinda pricey. What kind did you go with?
Click to expand...
I think they were SPC.........but the were good quality and they worked GREAT!! It solved all my alignment problems. I think I have some pics.
 
Pricey or not, if they solve my problems... Maybe I'll be in the mood to spend the money when warm weather comes back around.
 
TJman said:
Pricey or not, if they solve my problems... Maybe I'll be in the mood to spend the money when warm weather comes back around.
Click to expand...
They were well worth it!!! There's nothing more annoying they not being able to align your classice car.
 
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