Need help installing turn signal switch and lever

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Smcomanche

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Hi team,
I have a 64 dart that came with an universal switch that clamps to the outside of the column. I purchased the correct switch and a (now) questionable lever. I think leysons has the correct one, which i only discovered yesterday. Can anyone detail how to install the lever and how the turn signal switch works? I can't seem to figure out which parts move.
Thanks in advance.

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I can’t tell from the 3rd picture too well, but it looks like some kind of stud at the end by the column. A correct lever is installed through the slot as pictured and then secured with a specialty, long bolt through the hole in the switch into the lever. Is that a Daniel Stern repro turn signal switch? If so, it’s an exact reproduction on the original - great switch!
 
The lever installs through the hole as you are correctly showing. but the long screw then installed from the top, screwing into the lever. Threads should be in the handle.
 
I can’t tell from the 3rd picture too well, but it looks like some kind of stud at the end by the column. A correct lever is installed through the slot as pictured and then secured with a specialty, long bolt through the hole in the switch into the lever. Is that a Daniel Stern repro turn signal switch? If so, it’s an exact reproduction on the original - great switch!
I emailed Dan via his website, but did receive a response. I know he has somewhat dropped off of the forums so I purchased the next closest repro I could find. Is there an additional cam cancel plastic piece that I am missing?
 
The cancelling is performed by the pin spring on the rear of the steering wheel.

Hopefully this video may also be of some assistance



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Once you get the long screw in it will hold
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the raised tangs on the lever into a groove in the metal part of the switch bottom to turn the parts that move. It should look like this when assembled.
 
Hey...Is it possible to just change the cancel cam or do I have to get a whole new switch?
 
If you switch is working electrically and you have a busted off return finger you might get away with it. If the switch is not working electrically, I have wasted a lot of time and effort trying to fix it with a new cam.
 
Why would a person replace half a switch?
Different parts and labor for different faults.
Mechanical fault, The cancel cam has plastic latches that fail, switch doesn't hold at on position or cancel with wheel rotation.
Electrical fault gets entire switch replaced.
Substantial difference in cost of these 2 parts and services. That's why owners will try cancel cam alone to correct electrical fault.
 
A guy named David Koldos out of elgin, IL used to make a black replacement cancel cam that works very well and is supposed to be "long life". Does anyone know if he is still seling those?
 
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