Need help with 383 setup

-
6

66VALIANT

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2005
Messages
87
Reaction score
0
Location
ROCKDALE IL
Hey anyone out there good with cams a got an isky cam .440 exhaust .510 intake and 310 duration i was thinkin about getting the single plane intake from mopar and kb pistons with valve releifs high volume oil pump maybe some roller rockers, its going in a 66 plymouth valiant 4 speed 3.55 sure grip its about 2800 lbs. the engine is a 65 and 516 heads should i do anthing to the heads or bore the engine out. also what carb should i run? Thanks guys im new with big blocks.
 
Well, First the car is going to weigh more than 2800lbs., and the heads sould be swapped for something newer, 906,452.346s, the ports are just too small for the engine. Yes they did come with them but they are too small for any performance appilcation. Your better off with the newer heads stated. Port volume and flow wise.
What cam centerline is the cam that you have? Then what piston are you planning on useing?

BJR Racing
 
I agree with BJR. Try to get some newer 906 , 452 type heads or even the closed chamber 915's can work good. We have a 400 in my boys car with KB pistons and they have nice size valve reliefs. They are .025 in the hole and with the MP .557 cam it has about .200 piston to valve clearence. I know they make 383 pistons but I dont remember the comp height or about where it sits in the hole with stock deck height. I would consider the Eddy Performer RPM intake as it's a great street/strip intake. The boys car ran 11.55 with it compared to 11.59 with the single plane Holley SD. With 3.55 gears you will like the Performer RPM intake. As for carb I like the basic Holley 750 DP on mild street combo's. Got one on the boys car also and it works nice. Good luck , Ron
 
I can't help you with the Isky cam but I like the 509" lift MP I'm using in my 383, 71 Demon. The use of 906, or equivalent heads is a rule and I went one step further and pocket ported mine. I'm also using a 750 full mechanical Speed Demon on top of a single plane Weiand manifold. One bit of advise though, if you're going to use a high volume oil pump, MP or equivalent, do not use the MP windage tray. There are not enough louvers in the MP tray and under hard acceleration the oil doesn't get back to the oil pickup quick enough even with a baffled 5 quart oil pan. The simple fix is use a Milodon windage tray which has twice the amount of louvers.
 
So do you guys use hig volume oil pumps? any other things that may make this build easier or free up some power, what size valves should i iget if i get diff heads. is a gear drive a bad idea what do you guys use should the mopar ignition be okay for this or should i go msd, i got to change it right now it has the points distributor.Should i just stick with the stock bore, and the 3.55 gear is ok. thanx
 
I use the high volume oil pump that's how I found the problem with the windage tray. The 906 heads should get you the 2.14" intake and 1.81" exhaust valves but if I was going to do this again (and I probably will) I'd just go buy the Stage 5 cast iron head assemblies from Mopar. I ran a gear drive cam on a 440 Super Bee sometime ago and the only thing it got me was a head ache from the wine, sounds like a mini blower under the hood. Dual roller chain is just fine. I've only ever used the high voltage ignition and distributor from mopar with the orange box and have never had a problem which includes 3 440"s and 2 383"s. As far as the bore goes, what shape are the cylinders in such as taper and scoring. The 3.55 gear is good if you plan on mostly cruising but I consider the 3.91 a better all around gear, just make sure that you use nothing smaller that the 8 3/4 rear end.
What it really comes down to are 2 things. How much do you want to spend and are you building this for street/strip.
 
hey i have not seen the bores yet but its only got like 60k original on the whole car owned buy a little old lady. it is a 8 3/4 rear end. the trans is an a 833 from a 72, hey demon seed have you ever ran them at the track just curious what a a body bb can do
 
Well first off I'm running a kitted 727 with a 3000 RPM stall converter and a B+M rachet shifter. My best time so far is 13.8 sec in the 1/4 mile but thats with BF Goodrich banna skins leaving behind 10 feet of rubber. I'm getting 2 Mickey Thompson ET street radials which should knock of .4 seconds. Our altitude here in Calgary is 3500 feet and on a hot day I'm sure the engine would love to have a blower feeding it. I built the car mostly for show and it just goes like Hell and with the cam and intake it's just barely streetable. A buddy down the street has a 70 Duster with a 440 that's probably pushing 600 HP (no bottle) and he's in the low 12's easy.
 
thats cool i was just wondering. never worked with big blocks b 4, are 318 blew up and i work at a junkyard i was buildin another 318 then i found a 383 and just agreed to strip some demo cars for them and it was mine it was either put it in my dakota or in the valiant i think it would be more fun in the plymouth though it was 2800 from the factory and ive taken alot of crap out like all the heater stuff and junk im gonna get glass bumpers and maybe a hood so it shouldnt weigh 2 much a 383 is only 95 pounds more then a 318. thanx
 
I think that you may want to recheck your weights on the engine. As mopar says that they are 135lbs. heavier and when scaleing them, BBD to a SBD they are close. Also a 727 to a 904 is a difference of 35 lbs. and the same as a powerglide 100lbs w/o the converter. Also theres only a 5 HP difference in the two trannys for drag so with this the 3 spd. will be faster. More gears the faster the vehicle, for instance top fuel locks the clutch up 18 times in the 1/4 and pro stock shifts 5 times, so if they are the same weight then the 3 speed will be faster with less gears.


BJR Racing
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top