Good for you! I do the same. I hawk ebay for old books, manuals and NOS engine and electrical parts, because nothing is made in USA anymore and the quality is questionable at best. With parts, I look for brands like Echlin (NAPA), Michigan, Sealed Power, TRW, Pacific, Hastings and on and on. The box has to be old and yellowed and say "MADE IN USA" before I pull the trigger. lol
I get it. I have my dad's original FSM from when he bought his / my Dart
That is good to know! Thanks for mentioning these brands I’m going to reference this for my parts. My uncle is shipping me an alternator he got from a duster or possibly a vailant. He said it should work in my car, but I’m not totally sure on it. I gotta get a regulator too. Would you say rock auto, classic industries and summit are the best place for parts online?
Absolutely. I wasn't saying NOT to get the PDF. They're certainly useful. Just be aware, that the information in the PDF and an original first edition manual "may not" be the same.
You'll like having that format
Sorry this is a dumb question, but how would I add a ground from the negative terminal of the body exactly? Here is a photo of the bulk heads(?)
Your car "probably" has the round back alternator with the single field. I would recommend going to the later (1970 I THINK?) square back dual field alternator. I think these guys will agree with that. Just know that with the dual field, the one small wire from the old alternator will attack to one field (doesn't matter which) and theo other field gets grounded. I made this upgrade on my 64 and it charges better and more stable. But be advised, don't go "crazy" with the alternator amperage. I wouldn't recommend going any father than maybe a 50 amp unit. I think mine is like a 37? I cannot remember. It's been awhile ago. But they will probably try to give you a 60 or 70 amp unit. Don't do "THAT".
Read my post no.8
Ah yes! I remember this response now but I’ve been getting so overloaded with info that I’ve lost track of the replies. Just screenshotted it to easily refer back to because I am gonna need it tomorrow haha. Thanks for writing that all up, very easy to understand.
i ended up snagging it still
So it appears you DO have a intake leak, there is a passage there for coolant from the head so if the red arrow is the area of the leak then it is probably leaking at that gasket you could try putting a wrench on the bolts closest to the leak on the intake and see if there loose but if no go then the intake is coming off, not a terrible difficult job but not something you want to necessarily take on at this point. For reference the thermostat housing is bolted to the intake with two bolts directly under the upper rad hose so NOT your leak.
