needhelp im lost

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2 fast z28

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hi guys im trying to get my dart running, the setup is a 340 that has just been rebuilt 10.1 compression and a comp cam extreme engery cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-cl20-223-3/overview/make/dodge running 26 degrees of timing with mopar performance dizzy recurve kit,converted to hei four pin, and a offenhauser tunnel ram with the ir adapters so it splits the motor in half basically and two 450 holley tunnel ram carbs, i think i have 28 for main jets on both one turn out on the idle mixture on both and did check to see if power valves were blown and they were good could not find what size power valves are my problem is that i have the rear half of the motor fluding out the plugs are wet comparied to the front two on both sides i trying everything and nothing seems to work i turn the idle mixture screws all the way in and does not change anything im lost, if someone could help that would be great im almost ready to go with a single carb setup but would like to get this setup working if i can helppppp!
 
Easiest check would be the float levels on the rear carb. Just a trickle out the site plugs at the most is needed.
 
take some pics of your setup.and rick is right make sure the float settings are correct.put the rear carb in front.
 
x3 on the float issue..... Could be one of the needle and seat damaged or dirt imbedded in the needle on the rear carb. If the engine does idle, look down into that carb when running. Do you see any dripping out of the booster legs, you should not, fuel should be atomized so as not to see liquid. Also, don't know what your floats are made from, but could have a bad one that is not able to float enough to shut down sufficiently enough while running, therefore putting in too much fuel.

Just some thoughts.......
 
how much fel pressure do you have at the carbs?set it at 6 psi and changethe needle and seat on the carb flooding over...:dontknow:
 
ok that sounds good i did set the float leves on both carbs so when you shake the car some fuel comes out, the float are made of some kind of white plastic wit springs under them above the accelerator pump, the fuel psi is a 8 i will drop it down and see what that does and change the needle and seat and i will get pics of the setup
 
just got in the house went through both carbs cleaned them and replaced gaskets on both of them found couple areas that were and issue found that both power valves had two gaskets on them not good, also some one went through these carbs before me and didnt clean all of the old gaskets off of the metering block and main body of both carbs i also changed the needle and seats on the one carbs i was haveing problema with and the last thing i did was down the fuel pressure to 6 psi started car and ran great not fluiding at all and was even able to drive the car i do have to do some fine tunning but its way better than what it was one question how do i figure out was power valve to run these 450 dont have any manifold vacum port to set how much vacum motors making anyhelp here would be awesome
 

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Happy to hear you found many of the problems. Not quite sure I understand your vacuum question, but think this is the answer.....You need to find out how many inches of vacuum you are pulling, at idle and in gear, if you have an automatic. If you are pulling 10 inches, divide that in half and your PV's should be in the 5 psi range. I am not real familiar with the 450 cfm units, but should only have a primary PV and no metering block on the secondaries.
 
ok the 450s dont have manifold vacume ports on them but i did drill and tap a hole in the intake to supply my brake booster so i should be able to use that right and it is an auto
 
2 fast z28 said:
i did drill and tap a hole in the intake to supply my brake booster so i should be able to use that right and it is an auto
Click to expand...


You have got to tell me that you are joking

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why is that bad i did it on the back adapter and used a 1/4 to -6 an fitting with a -6 an fitting from my booster should be no different than a carb spacer under a carb right tell me if im wrong i dont know will this effect performance or no
 
The PROBLEM is you have a very low torque, hi RPM "race only" piece that was never designed to be streetable nor generate enough vacuum to run power brakes.
 
yeah that is what i was thinking, that should work, i thank all of the people that HELPED me out on the issue i was having :burnout:
 
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