new 340 engine start up questions

-
Progress is going pretty steady and any help would be appreciated.
 
It's not the rings, it's flat tappet cams, so is the cam a roller or flat tappet?
 
It is hydrolic. Do I still have to high idle it even if I prime the engine with a drill while turning it over by hand?
 
yes yes yes. Its the 2500 RPM that whips the oil off the crank to lube the camshaft during the lapping process of the lifter cam contact. This is important as well as seating the rings. Moly rings with the right cylinder finish require next to no break in but cast rings do. Chrome rings seat pretty fast as well but cylinder prep is usually called out on what ring you are going to run. I would actually advise break in without a windage tray to get max oil sling. Also make sure to run a radiator with a stat installed. No garden hose cooling as you want the motor to get to operating temp as fast as possible to properly tension rings.
 
Sedanman said:
It is hydrolic. Do I still have to high idle it even if I prime the engine with a drill while turning it over by hand?
Click to expand...

Hasn't got anything to do with hydraulic. It's the difference between flat tappets either mechanical or hydraulic and ROLLER lifters. flat tappets require break in at fairly high RPM. Roller lifters do not. Find out what you have for a cam and follow exactly the cam manufacturer's instructions. All cam makers have destructions on their websites. Basically, this means varying RPM and keeping RPM above 1800-2K or so for 15 --20 min or more.

Comp cams:

http://www.compcams.com/whatsnew/NewsDetails.aspx?ListHistoryID=1321022241
 
Follow the cam mfrs instructions for the first bit of time with the RPM's. Once done with that, get it on the street and drive it with a wide variety of RPM's and gears and loads (different throttle openings); that will help seat the rings well. What oil do you have in it?
 
I'm just using std oil for break in with stp additive with zinc.

[ame]http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/breakin/548e.pdf[/ame]
 
Sedanman said:
It is hydrolic. Do I still have to high idle it even if I prime the engine with a drill while turning it over by hand?
Click to expand...

ABSOLUTELY!!!!

Follow the cam manufacturers recommendations. Have a good known carb so the engine will fire quickly, fan in front of the rad, 2000-2500 rpm's for at least 15-20 minutes while constantly monitoring water temps and oil pressure.

It really helps to have two people to do this as you will want to have someone outside checking for leaks as well.

DO NOT shut it down unless you absolutely have to.

Have a fire extinguisher on hand as well.
 
Gotcha. Thanks. I bought this 750 Holley vac secondaies from a fellow member that needed a kit so I'll cross my fingers that it will stay running once I fire it up.
 
Sedanman said:
Gotcha. Thanks. I bought this 750 Holley vac secondaies from a fellow member that needed a kit so I'll cross my fingers that it will stay running once I fire it up.
Click to expand...

Do you have another car, or a friends car to put it on and try it?

It's absolutely imperative you know it's good!
 
High idle, break in the rings by varying RPM at cruise speeds every 5 minutes or so. Cruise at 55, then 70, then 60, etc.
You did use a high pressure cam break in lube I hope?
 
Yup, agree with others, I was also told to run straight water dring break in case there is a coolant leak, then only water runs out. Also, make sure all your fuel fitting are sealed tight cause you hate to shut it down after it's started after only a few mins. Testing the carb on a different engine is a good ideas too, make sure it works good. A good idea to keep a fire extinguisher close by as well. Nothing smells better than a brand new engine during break -in.....except maybe for pu$$y :D good luck!!! :glasses7:
 
No,my only other car buddy has a 6 pack on his car and his doesn't run either.
 
I'm going to be going through this with a 340 here in a few weeks. Aside from the zinc additive, what weight oil should be used? Will 10w-30 work or is 30w the best?
 
ESP47 said:
I'm going to be going through this with a 340 here in a few weeks. Aside from the zinc additive, what weight oil should be used? Will 10w-30 work or is 30w the best?
Click to expand...

I would think that a 10w30, 10w40, 20w40, or 20w50 would work with the zinc additive.
 
Make sure it's not 180 degrees out of time. Did you install the distributor with the timing chain marks at 6 0'clock(top gear) and 12 0'clock(bottom gear) -OR- 12 0'clock(top gear) and 12 o'clock(bottom gear)? If it's wrong, you will wipe all the cam lube off by the time you figure out why it won't start.
 
Bad Sport said:
............
Have a fire extinguisher on hand as well.
Click to expand...

THIS^^^^......been there, done that, saw the bonfire when a remote oil filter line blew and shot hot oil on to my headers 13 minutes into my cam break in......:angry4::angry4::angry4:....ah, those were the days, lol.
 
Well.... We're waiting....


Is it broke in yet?

[ame]http://youtu.be/Z0YIJQ1jgEI[/ame]
 
69MOPE said:
Make sure it's not 180 degrees out of time. Did you install the distributor with the timing chain marks at 6 0'clock(top gear) and 12 0'clock(bottom gear) -OR- 12 0'clock(top gear) and 12 o'clock(bottom gear)? If it's wrong, you will wipe all the cam lube off by the time you figure out why it won't start.
Click to expand...

You just made my brain hurt. I was going to bring it to TDC on the balancer and make sure the rotor is at #1 when I fire it and adjust as need be. What do you recommend?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top